Those small parts are so frustrating for us mere mortals. You could try solder paste and a toaster oven/hot air..........google it if you haven't seen it before. I think you have to keep the paste refrigerated when not in use. Good Luck!
Digital Potentiometer
- Thread starter breaktru
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Hey AttyPops, I did watch a YouTube video soldering with a heatgun. I found a break-out board for the SOIC chips that Dallastat uses but found nothing on uMax chips that Maxum uses. I would assume they are the same. What I was ridiculously trying was soldering the wire directly to the pins. I need to condense the size as small as possible so I can squeeze everything into a tube rather than a box.
I settled on the SOIC package. At least I could solder it to a SOIC break out board. Those uMax package sizes are like tying shoe laces on a mosquito.
The DS1809 and the 1869 are fun to play with and work well. Now that I switched from the 8100 regulator to the 4050 regulator the dozen or so dig pots at 10k are too small in resistance, have to order some 100k's.
The DS1809 and the 1869 are fun to play with and work well. Now that I switched from the 8100 regulator to the 4050 regulator the dozen or so dig pots at 10k are too small in resistance, have to order some 100k's.
Okay, finally completed my new Copper V.V. mod. Using One 18650, 3.7v. battery Incorporated the PTN04050C regulator and a DS-18689-100 Digital potentiometer. Voltage in - 3.7v to 4.12v, Voltage out = 3.24v to >6V.
Interesting i didn't think these chips would buck only boost. Though maybe the first post had a typo but you have 3.24 volts output twice now. Let us know how the chip holds up.
These are running in Boost mode only, the diode drops the voltage range of the output.
Looks great Breaktru, another switch or small rocker switch and you would not have to turn it all the way up to go back down in output voltage.
It's easy Para, I used one button for UP and Down instead on 2 separate ones. While holding the FIRE button, The first push decrements the voltage, each push goes to the next lower step. There are 64 resistive steps (taps). When you keep tapping the button it will go all the way to the lowest voltage. I posted it was 3.24v but just awhile ago when trying to make a chessy video I went to 3.12v I believe. Once it bottoms it then starts to increment and visa versa, each tap is a step. If you hold the button it will keep scaling up or down depending on the way it was headed. To change direction, continue to hold the FIRE button and wait a second or two, then hit the UP/DOWN button. After you're at your voltage of choice, let go of the UP/DOWN button while continuing holding the fire button for 1-2 seconds and the setting will be stored in the D.P. chip.
Sounds confusing but after doing it a couple of times, it's quite easy. I placed the two buttons at 90 degrees from each other so it's easy to do it with one hand.
Although I read the spec/instructions several times, I figured it out by trial and error.
One more thing Para, you know those Digital Meters that you use, It wrecks havoc on the operation of varying the voltage. At first I thought I had a problem with my circuit or chips but I switched to my digital multimeter and it worked as designed.
What was happening is, when I went down to 3.24v, I was stuck there and the meter would flash dim to bright and sometimes each flash was a totally different voltage reading. Like I said, It was the D.M. module and not the circuitry. All is now fine and I am truley enjoying my new top.
I want to thank TuErOs for his idea of using couplers instead of just a copper pipe, give it a new look. Didn't look as good as his but I like it.
That's amazing, breakthru. You modders have come a long way since I last lurked these forums.
My 2x14500 boosted box quit working months ago from juice leaking on the chip. Since then I've just been using a plain old nicostick. Now that I've checked out the vv stuff I can feel a new project on the horizon. But I'm sure as hell staying away from these digital pots.
My 2x14500 boosted box quit working months ago from juice leaking on the chip. Since then I've just been using a plain old nicostick. Now that I've checked out the vv stuff I can feel a new project on the horizon. But I'm sure as hell staying away from these digital pots.
DS1809-100 : DS1809 Dallastat - Overview
DS1669-100 , but needs 4.5v-8v input if your using for 2 battery mod. Digi-Key - DS1669S-100+-ND (Manufacturer - DS1669S-100+)
There are many more if you willing to go through the spec sheets of each.
REMEMBER: try to get the 8-DIP package unless you can handle the smaller formats.
DS1669-100 , but needs 4.5v-8v input if your using for 2 battery mod. Digi-Key - DS1669S-100+-ND (Manufacturer - DS1669S-100+)
There are many more if you willing to go through the spec sheets of each.
REMEMBER: try to get the 8-DIP package unless you can handle the smaller formats.
Arkoser, I don't believe you can use the 1804. Wiper position is manipulated by three Terminal port.
The Digital Pot wired to the Booster board photos:
Vari Volt Booster Regulator w/ Digital Pot - Copper Mod
Vari Volt Booster Regulator w/ Digital Pot - Copper Mod
The only match I was able to get on Farnell is 7 bit MCP4141-104E/P MICROCHIP|MCP4141-104E/P|POTENTIOMETER, DIGITAL, 100K, | Farnell Ireland
but 128 is too much to me
- Status
