Disappointed in CE2? Try this!

Status
Not open for further replies.

br5495

Old Man Resting in Peace
ECF Veteran
May 24, 2010
3,061
2,049
90
Liberty, Texas
Thanks BR and Rocketman,

I agree with what you're saying... but this is what I found when I opened the E2.
I've seen the same thing on some of mine Teach. It breaks in two real easy, doesn't it? This subject has been debated more than once on other threads and some people believe the wick burns in two. However, if you burn the black out of yours with a torch, you will find that all the wick fibers are still there.

These small fibers are spun together to make thin strands, and as near as I can tell, the black gunk builds up in between them and separates them. Once separated, the wick almost falls apart. Nowadays I torch the wicks often enough so that this does not happen. Notice in the photo that the wick glows red hot, but the fibers do not melt.

wick.jpg
 

Teach

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 3, 2010
1,369
1,806
Florida
I had one CE2 that the lead wires were shorted (touching) and burnt a spot in the wick. Was the spot on yours in the heater or down the side? The Rev 4 with only the heatshrink holding the cup to the tube can spin twisting the lead wires.

and the camera is a Panasonic Lumix FZ28.

No shorts, I did have it in rotation for quite a while, it's a v3.5. I'm going to see if I can clean it up and if it's short on wick PTB it. Not sure what happened on it, it just showed up in cleaning. I normally do an alcohol soak, steam it and then dry.

Nice camera - I've been saving for a Canon Rebel, but I keep vaping it!
 

Teach

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 3, 2010
1,369
1,806
Florida
I've seen the same thing on some of mine Teach. It breaks in two real easy, doesn't it? This subject has been debated more than once on other threads and some people believe the wick burns in two. However, if you burn the black out of yours with a torch, you will find that all the wick fibers are still there.

These small fibers are spun together to make thin strands, and as near as I can tell, the black gunk builds up in between them and separates them. Once separated, the wick almost falls apart. Nowadays I torch the wicks often enough so that this does not happen. Notice in the photo that the wick glows red hot, but the fibers do not melt.

QUOTE]

Thanks BR,

It sure surprised me - I didn't think it could happen either. That theory sounds as good as any. I did use it on a reg 510 bat that would sometimes continue to fire - I thought that could be it. I figure it's overdue for an overhaul for sure. I have to make a couple more to get ready for the week anyway.
 

Big Hitter

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 21, 2010
5,640
10,180
Binghamton, NY
Somehow, I doubt it. Unfortunate! So, I'll keep my syringe mod! Never a shortage of syringes out there! LOL
And if anyone believes they will perform as well as the syringe tube, they mistaken. But I guess, it gets folks to buy more just to try them.

I don't think folks are under the impression that it will work better. At least I am not. But there is a place for them.

I have 3 syringe mods made and use them quite a bit, but I still use stock E2s as well. With my last batch the performance is pretty decent right out of the box. I would get the clear next time just to see the juice level and gunk build up.
 

kwcharlie

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 24, 2009
1,213
605
77
Houston
acrigs.com
if you cut it with the tubing cutter (takes a LOT of spinning) it tapers the cut and makes it easier to push the sy tube over it, i cut the sy's with a single sided razor blade, make a miter box to get it at right angle then bevel/taper the inside plastic edges, heating the plastic helps push on but last 12 just pushed on HARD
 

MaxUT

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 4, 2009
2,668
1,073
Ogden, UT, US
I also forgot to mention that steel wool will remove the black lettering, just be gentlemen with it.

Just made my first one today. I removed the lettering by wetting a strip of paper towel with alcohol then wrapping it around the syringe. After a few minutes of soaking it was easy to scrub the lettering off.
 

Teach

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 3, 2010
1,369
1,806
Florida
I used a mini hacksaw to cut the ends off my B-D syringe:

Works great, zips right through it.

Superior Tool Mini Hacksaw from Lowes, list price $6.87

If you have a 5/16th dowel, you can use a tube cutter on the syringe too. Gets a good 90 every time (assuming you’re careful anyway.)

Cut off the finger tabs at the open end of the syringe – I use wire nippers. This allows the cutter to get closer to the end. Slide it over the dowel, set your tube cutter as close to the Luer-Lok as you can (keep both sides of the tube wheel mounted on the cylinder) and you cut the same as removing the e2 tube. Flip it around and do the other end. If your syringe has a plunger stop (increased thickness on the open end) and you keep that on it makes a secure snap in for your DT. I keep my cutting at one end of the dowel because you will need to cut off the ends sooner or later due to the tube cutter damage – this just makes it later.

The 5/16th dowel isn’t a perfect fit, but the closest I could find. If you’re having trouble holding the syringe, try masking tape or a clamp (rubber pads recommended) to hold it in place.
 

jdubious

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 28, 2010
1,867
6,505
Coppell, TX
I've been using this setup for a week now and overall I have been quite satisfied. I have had a couple that I couldn't get to wick proper(burnt taste) but I chalk this up to using the E2 carto as a base for the mod. I've been using PTB on all so far. I thought I would post a few things that have been working out for me. Much has already been discussed but some might find a few tips helpful.

- I've also been using my tubing cutter to clean up both ends. I have found that I do not make use of the full length of the tube so the 1/8" loss to each end works to my advantage. I use a sharp knife(I don't recommend this) to get started then insert an old carto about half an inch to support the syringe tube so you can make use of the tube cutter. The result is perfect cuts that have a much more refined look.

- I leave extra carto tubing at the bottom (about 1/2" total). This provides a snug fit for the (monoject) tube. On a couple of my early tries, when trying to unscrew a tight carto, the clear tube flexed in then slipped off. this made a big mess and screwed up everything. The extra steel underneath gives support and allows the outer tube to grip better. It also eliminates the idea of needing glue anywhere on the mod. This might not work well with other brands of syringe.

- Ronsonol Lighter Fuel (for zippos) works wonders when removing left over adhesive from peeling off the colored cover from the carto. I figure we were all smokers and you might have some lying around.

- PTB placement is key so I take extra care when trimming the inner most fill cap. The R4 fill cap has an inner and outer rim which is helpful. You can use a razor blade to trim the outer rim where the wick travels down. Cut out about 3/8" or so section flush with the inner part of the cap. This is where your PTB will extend up making the best possible contact with the factory wick. Leaving the sections around the fill holes and inner rim untouched will keep the cup centered further aiding overall performance.

- To reseat the fill cap use the plunger from the syringe. It is a perfect fit(I made a couple before I realized this..DUH) and the rubber end is quite forgiving to any errors in judgment.

- I think G bear posted the tip to use a section of carto tube in the mouthpiece end and it is a good one. This allows use of a drip tip which is more comfortable, cools off your vapor and looks better. It has additional benefits as well. You can use it to keep a firm down force on your middle cap which prevents leaking. Plus you can stuff a small piece fluval foam(or regular cartridge foam) inside it. When this mod is working to full potential it really puts out a lot of vapor and some will condense inside the end of your tube. Trapping a bit of foam between your center cap and drip tip will create a buffer and help prevent raw fluid from getting in your mouth. The foam also helps slow down pocket leaks.

I had originally given up on the E2 cartos a couple of months back, I couldn't even get the PTB method to work with them. The clear tube has allowed me to see what the heck is going on in there and take a step towards taming this beast. I am alarmed at how fast I am going through fluid and plan to lower my dosage from 24mg to ? on my next order.

Good Luck!
 

vapspaz

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 21, 2010
4,218
8,873
SC
- PTB placement is key so I take extra care when trimming the inner most fill cap. The R4 fill cap has an inner and outer rim which is helpful. You can use a razor blade to trim the outer rim where the wick travels down. Cut out about 3/8" or so section flush with the inner part of the cap. This is where your PTB will extend up making the best possible contact with the factory wick. Leaving the sections around the fill holes and inner rim untouched will keep the cup centered further aiding overall performance.

Can you post a pic of this detail and maybe one of how it looks assembled?

Thanks for the great info!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread