I was thinking with the cells wired in series, all 3 would see the 1 amp charging current . . . were they in parallel, the current would divide . . .
DNA 200 Watt
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Here is a couple of pictures of what I think the clearance issue is on the Opus 200's causing the fuse to blow.
Note the short distance from the two upper legs of the switch to the grounded mounting pad.
Note the short distance from the two upper legs of the switch to the grounded mounting pad.
What to do, pop it open and put a little something between before it happens?Here is a couple of pictures of what I think the clearance issue is on the Opus 200's causing the fuse to blow.
Note the short distance from the two upper legs of the switch to the grounded mounting pad.
I think it's would involve removing the board and reducing the OD of the stand offs or cutting them shorter and using a plastic spacer between the shortened case stand offs and the board. I'm just going to do nothing now except hope.
On the bright side the large contact area of the stand offs have greater heat transfer ability.
I believe the ones that failed have failed quickly when put into use so it doesn't scare me to much.
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I would disagree. First, it's TEMPERATURE PROTECTION or LIMITING, NOT CONTROL. My Boxer with SX350j has to be set 60°F lower than my DNA40/DNA200 so my rayon wicks won't singe/burn and the vape isn't as consistent as on my DNA mods. Atomizer is the same (KF v4, same builds).
You're still putting in the same amount of energy into the battery pack, whether it's 3s or 1s. The best analogy I can come up with is trying to fill a 3 gal bucket vs 3 - 1 gal buckets with a hose that delivers 1gal per min. They both take 3 mins to fill.
I think they'd have to shave or file those posts down to clear the connectors.
what do you guys have your preheat, watts and temp set to?
my dual Ti in the Velocity is .09 200W preheat, 8 punch, 45W @ 420F. Nobles Pistachio RY4 6mg.
my dual Ti in the Velocity is .09 200W preheat, 8 punch, 45W @ 420F. Nobles Pistachio RY4 6mg.
I think I'm gonna wait on newer devices, mostly for smaller form factors. In the meanwhile I'm grabbing an Esquare DNA40. Hopefully the vaporshark will not be MUCH bigger than the current rDNAs
So I got my lifepo4 in. put instead of just a negative and positive wire coming out. it's like 4 cables coming out two red two black.
can I just cut off the connectors and twist the black with black and red with red?
can I just cut off the connectors and twist the black with black and red with red?
I personally don't understand the assemble method of putting the screw in from the front. Why not thread the mount block and do it cleanly AND avoid the nut on the chip side?
It has a balance charger.
But then it has two plugs coming out.
so we have two sets of positive and negative.
It is a 3S
Sure can't read either of our theories from the instruction document. If it is 1 amp @ the 11 - 12V, then that would fit my notion for the series battery connection.
Might be time for me to quit lurking @ the eVolv forum.
Well. the box is made.
We completely ....ed up the cutting out the screen and USB.
also the new up and down buttons on the other side of the mod feature since it was easier.
Nothing is proper. nothing is pretty. The expoxy we bought didn't harden up so its more a glorified glue.
But it works as far as I can tell.
also its a huge ....ing box
We completely ....ed up the cutting out the screen and USB.
also the new up and down buttons on the other side of the mod feature since it was easier.
Nothing is proper. nothing is pretty. The expoxy we bought didn't harden up so its more a glorified glue.
But it works as far as I can tell.
also its a huge ....ing box
It has a balance charger.
But then it has two plugs coming out.
so we have two sets of positive and negative.
It is a 3S
It is a 9.9 v pack, only rated at 20c. There is a balance charger shown on the back that has three hots for the cells and an additional power tap (red and black with a white connector) on the top to plug into a transmitter. It is a "transmitter pack" for RC transmitters. Not a pack for use in a mod.
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I handled an Esquare a couple of weeks ago and they're much smaller than they look in pics. Nice quality too. The pic of the DNA200 looked not much bigger than the rDNA. It should be announced in a couple of weeks at ECC (from what I've heard).
I thought the same thing. Probably easier to build. Kinda hard to get a screwdriver inside the box.
Check the voltage on the 2 plugs. I think they're just different plugs for different types of transmitters.
It has a balance charger.
But then it has two plugs coming out.
so we have two sets of positive and negative.
It is a 3S
That would make it a 42a rated pack so it should be fine.
Your math wins! I have been dealing with 850's and 900's and did not jump to the fact that 20c at 2.1wh is ok. And it is lifpo so 9.9 is it.
I guess il check the voltage tommorow. Emptied out the lipo(it was barely half).
also fiddling in escribe.
Definitely need to clean up the insides more after I get proper rock hard epoxy. The epoxy I got is pretty much just....glue.
Currently the lipo(which we raised up in the box with a failed sled) is the thing holding the up and down buttons since the epoxy was useless.
Probably going to check all the connections since my friend is too damn brute. but he got everything soldered without destroying the chip.
ended up using two of wago dual wire connectors we use in the store for the battery-chip power. Can handle up to 400 volts and is rated nominal at 32 amps. It also fit in nicely between the battery and the chip preventing the chip moving about with USB action.
the lifepo4 battery we tried out DID work and it did fire but it showed as completely empty on the battery bar. I guess that is because the chip was still set on lipo in the firmware.
also fiddling in escribe.
Definitely need to clean up the insides more after I get proper rock hard epoxy. The epoxy I got is pretty much just....glue.
Currently the lipo(which we raised up in the box with a failed sled) is the thing holding the up and down buttons since the epoxy was useless.
Probably going to check all the connections since my friend is too damn brute. but he got everything soldered without destroying the chip.
ended up using two of wago dual wire connectors we use in the store for the battery-chip power. Can handle up to 400 volts and is rated nominal at 32 amps. It also fit in nicely between the battery and the chip preventing the chip moving about with USB action.
the lifepo4 battery we tried out DID work and it did fire but it showed as completely empty on the battery bar. I guess that is because the chip was still set on lipo in the firmware.
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