DNA 200 Watt

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MrNobody

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So how much better is the dna 200 than the Snow wolf 200? I've heard the SW is terribly inaccurate but the only thing I have to compare it to is my IPv3. I'm also interested in seeing how the temp control works on the dna 200 because I've tried temp control on the SW and it's either not for me or the SW isn't doing it right. I'm just asking because I have a custom DNA 200 box on the way and I don't wanna over set my expectations.
 

Darkly spectr

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So how much better is the DNA 200 than the Snow wolf 200? I've heard the SW is terribly inaccurate but the only thing I have to compare it to is my IPv3. I'm also interested in seeing how the temp control works on the DNA 200 because I've tried temp control on the SW and it's either not for me or the SW isn't doing it right. I'm just asking because I have a custom DNA 200 box on the way and I don't wanna over set my expectations.
I haven't used the snow wolf yet but according from what I have seen it passes the cotton test pretty well.

the biggest issue is the lack of ohm lock. Sometimes the mod doesn't change from wattage to TC quick enough and it messes up the readings.

Ofcourse you have the newer snow wolf asmodus edition and that has a ohm lock function and manual mode selection.

also this is how I ended up doing the + and - buttons(mostly because we couldn't figure out how to make them work with the chip sled in the way)

tumblr_nsbng47iWb1r31daro2_1280.jpg


I kinda like it. Since now you don't have to move your thumb around to reach for the + and -. just use the rest of your fingers. like this.

tumblr_nsbng47iWb1r31daro1_1280.jpg


and yes I messed up while building it and picked the wrong side to put everything so the battery door is now always facing outwards of my hand. Eh I don't mind. this is meant for performance damnit and not looks.
 

MrNobody

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I haven't used the snow wolf yet but according from what I have seen it passes the cotton test pretty well.

the biggest issue is the lack of ohm lock. Sometimes the mod doesn't change from wattage to TC quick enough and it messes up the readings.

Ofcourse you have the newer snow wolf asmodus edition and that has a ohm lock function and manual mode selection.

also this is how I ended up doing the + and - buttons(mostly because we couldn't figure out how to make them work with the chip sled in the way)

tumblr_nsbng47iWb1r31daro2_1280.jpg


I kinda like it. Since now you don't have to move your thumb around to reach for the + and -. just use the rest of your fingers. like this.

tumblr_nsbng47iWb1r31daro1_1280.jpg


and yes I messed up while building it and picked the wrong side to put everything so the battery door is now always facing outwards of my hand. Eh I don't mind. this is meant for performance damnit and not looks.
I actually have one of the snow wolfs from the very first batches. Asmodus had them up on their site for a few days then it went back to pre order.
 

Darkly spectr

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Has anybody ever had issues with ohm locking not doing anything?

I made a new dual coil for my velocity. came out to a 0.084. It is in temperature mode. I tell the mod to lock the ohms. but while I am firing it the ohms keep on rising up even though the lock is next to the ohm number. hell the temperature doesn't even show up. it shows 480 then I press the button. just bars. Messing around with in and out of temperature control jumping. Then it finally starts reading the temperature but I highly doubt that 80 watts is only going to heat this to 330
 
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VapingBad

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That doesn't sound right. I did this dry cotton test with my "ex" SX Mini M and it looked like the DNA40 one.
It was the only picture I had, well I do have another where the SX burnt through the cotton at 360 F.
I sent it back for a refund even adjusting the temp right down I didn't like the temp mode vape and lack of pre-heat, but I have a few other posts of cotton tests that are well out, not as bad as that one.

Everything was the same for both tests, same atty & coil I even locked it cold on the SX first before doing the DNA. I did notice that the marks at lower temps were more time dependent with the SX than the DNA, so if you just did a short press it would have looked a lot better and I only do cotton tests for 10 secs fire at each temp. I think that is due to the large voltage swings inherent in the pulse frequency modulated output causing high temps for a short time.
 

VapingBad

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Has anybody ever had issues with ohm locking not doing anything?

I made a new dual coil for my velocity. came out to a 0.084. It is in temperature mode. I tell the mod to lock the ohms. but while I am firing it the ohms keep on rising up even though the lock is next to the ohm number. hell the temperature doesn't even show up. it shows 480 then I press the button. just bars. Messing around with in and out of temperature control jumping. Then it finally starts reading the temperature but I highly doubt that 80 watts is only going to heat this to 330
There was a fix to ohm lock applied from the analyse atomiser window, you would need a version off the Early Firmware thread on the Evolv forum.
 

KTMRider

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So how much better is the DNA 200 than the Snow wolf 200? I've heard the SW is terribly inaccurate but the only thing I have to compare it to is my IPv3. I'm also interested in seeing how the temp control works on the DNA 200 because I've tried temp control on the SW and it's either not for me or the SW isn't doing it right. I'm just asking because I have a custom DNA 200 box on the way and I don't wanna over set my expectations.

How much better is a Ferrari 458 than a Honda Accord?

Yeah, that much better except Honda doesn't claim it can go 200mph.
 
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Azarias

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Is there a list out there that shows you what you need to build a DNA200 box mod? I've been searching but haven't found anything..lol

Enclosure
Firebutton and switches if you don't want to use the onboard switches
DNA200 bezel / holder / cradle if you don't use a DNA200-ready enclosure
510 connector (i.e. Fat Daddy Vapes or Varitube)
Batteries (2S or 3S LiPo, 3x 18650 [2 already supported or just the 2S LiPos?])
wires
heatshrink
soldering stuff
time and patience.

Did I forget something?

EDIT:
And of course the DNA200 chip :lol:
 
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Darkly spectr

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There was a fix to ohm lock applied from the analyse atomiser window, you would need a version off the Early Firmware thread on the Evolv forum.
The thing is that I am doing it from my mod itself.

make new build.
let it sit for abit.
screw on atty
5 clicks to lock it.
turn it into temperature mode
turn on ohm lock
the ohm is 0.08 with a lock symbol
I press the fire button. The ohm starts creeping up instead of staying at the 0.08 mark with the temperature not showing up.

I tried setting the lock with escribe on the 0.081 that the atomizer analyzer was saying.
the ohms are indeed locked and don't rise anymore.
But 70 watts on a 7 wrap dual 28 X 30 gauge twisted at 70 watts shouldn't be hovering at 340 degrees.
 

kalison

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Size comparison of the Hana v200

All 3 buttons rotate. Not really a big deal unless you're OCD and then you're screwed :lol:

LOL, well, if they are marked and everything can go wonky... yes it bothers me. If they are just buttons with no markings ON them... I don't care if they spin 100's of times a minute while I use it.

I mean its a 200 dollar piece of equipment... you can get wonky looking buttons on any sub 50 dollar Chinese mod.
 

VapingBad

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The thing is that I am doing it from my mod itself.

make new build.
let it sit for abit.
screw on atty
5 clicks to lock it.
turn it into temperature mode
turn on ohm lock
the ohm is 0.08 with a lock symbol
I press the fire button. The ohm starts creeping up instead of staying at the 0.08 mark with the temperature not showing up.

I tried setting the lock with escribe on the 0.081 that the atomizer analyzer was saying.
the ohms are indeed locked and don't rise anymore.
But 70 watts on a 7 wrap dual 28 X 30 gauge twisted at 70 watts shouldn't be hovering at 340 degrees.
If the temperature is not showing up I think that means it has gone out of temp mode so the lock may not apply either. I believe one of the reasons it does this is if it does not see enough temp change in the first second, why are you using ohm lock was the resistance drifting or something build related?
 

Darkly spectr

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If the temperature is not showing up I think that means it has gone out of temp mode so the lock may not apply either. I believe one of the reasons it does this is if it does not see enough temp change in the first second, why are you using ohm lock was the resistance drifting or something build related?
Honestly. I just put it on and you are going to think I am a bit of a idiot because I thought it was important. I mean everybody gives TC without ohm lock alot of flack so my automatic reaction is to put ohm lock on.
 

VapingBad

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Honestly. I just put it on and you are going to think I am a bit of a idiot because I thought it was important. I mean everybody gives TC without ohm lock alot of flack so my automatic reaction is to put ohm lock on.
I don't think you are an idiot as some people made a lot of noise, but I have never had an issue with my DNA40s that don't have lock and IMO it is just a hack for poor builds, atties and 510 connectors .
 

Darkly spectr

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I don't think you are an idiot as some people made a lot of noise, but I have never had an issue with my DNA40s that don't have lock and IMO it is just a hack for poor builds, atties and 510 connectors .
Mmm. Are there really that many issues of that nature?

Tried the velocity again. didn't use the ohm lock and now it came out to a 0.07 on the mod.

Still find it weird how 470 needs a constant 90 watts apparently to maintain the temperature. This is without it vaping.

I mean I could get 20 gauge glowing red with 120 watts now the mod is telling me that 30 and 28 gauge twisted needs pretty much 100 watts to maintain the temperature?
 
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