DNA 200 Watt

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Darkly spectr

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Screw it. I am just epoxing those hard plastic mounts to my chip. went to three stores today and didn't find screws that are small enough to fit the chip's mounting holes. even went to a computer store and they didn't have the screws.

man this build is even more badly made. but eh it's not like I am selling it.
 

Darkly spectr

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IT LIIIIIVES
tumblr_ntnqpeLKKm1r31daro1_1280.jpg


a truly horrible build. screen isn't centered properly, used thick plastic as mounts and epoxied the chip onto it. it seems to hold well. has issues with the 510 coming loose. magic expo fixed that. Everything is epoxy. epoxy is love, epoxy is life.

but seriously this thing is horrible but it vapes good.

I freaked the .... out though. tried updating it and bam. black screen nothing anymore. I thought I fried the chip again but re-doing the firmware update fixed it.
 

Jeremy Schreiber

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About to spend a bunch of money on an 18650 DNA133 Boxer mod. Has anyone heard of anything in the pipeline that will rival the DNA200? I already have an Opus 200 and things seem to move so fast in this industry that I am paranoid that after I place another order something new will come out. That said, I love the Opus and placing the DNA200/133 in a Boxer enclosure and giving it two HG2s for better battery life should be a dream that should keep me satisfied regardless what comes out (unless it has some ridiculous ground breaking technology).
 

Akuma888

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Apr 30, 2015
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Let me apologize first if readers find my following question a nuisance and repetitive.

Can some one explain to me what is the use of pre-heat function in DNA200?

I was asking in another discussion whether is there many people might actually vape at 200 watt and they started saying pre-heat function to 200 watt.

I never own a DNA 200 yet so I am curious why this statement.
 

Dampmaskin

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Can some one explain to me what is the use of pre-heat function in DNA200?
When in temperature mode, the DNA blasts the atomizer with extra power for a short time when you press the button. This is to get the coil quickly up to working temperature.

An example: Say you're vaping at 400F at 40W. When you press the button, the DNA fires at 200 W until two seconds have gone by, or the coil reaches at least 300F, whatever happens first. Then it lowers the max watts to your set 40W, and/or limits the power further to keep the temperature under 400F.
 
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mario23

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Anyone heard of the 44 by lit up mods or something. Looks good, but is it in a Hammond box?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It does appear to be a hammond box which, if done right, would be real nice. It looks good but maybe too soon to say.
I haven't heard any reviews or anything from that first batch sold.
 

Mad Scientist

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Let me apologize first if readers find my following question a nuisance and repetitive.

Can some one explain to me what is the use of pre-heat function in DNA200?

I was asking in another discussion whether is there many people might actually vape at 200 watt and they started saying pre-heat function to 200 watt.

I never own a DNA 200 yet so I am curious why this statement.

If you prefer a short draw for a fully satisfying vape even with extreme airflow (which I prefer), it heats up the coil initially so fast that this is now possible without going overtemp. If you prefer the long, slow draw style of vaping, it might not do much for you.
 
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Akuma888

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An example: Say you're vaping at 400F at 40W. When you press the button, the DNA fires at 200 W until two seconds have gone by, or the coil reaches at least 300F, whatever happens first. Then it lowers the max watts to your set 40W, and/or limits the power further to keep the temperature under 400F.

So the initial blast will always fire at 200W max and never lower? Does that mean DNA 40 initial fire up it's at 40W?
 

Dampmaskin

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Dont think the dna 40 had a pre heat function at all if i remember busardo his graphs correctly.
It has, but it's not configurable. It is only in Ni200 mode, and I think it stops boosting once the temperature reaches 100 F below your set temperature, so it's not very noticable unless you set the temperature a lot higher than what you actually want to vape at.
 

tchavei

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I believe John from evolv said that USB 5v 1A charging after losses and voltage conversion charges the lipo at .3 -.4 Amps.
That's odd considering that my 950mah lipo charges from empty to full in about 3 hours

11.1 x 950 = 10.55wh
5 x 1000 x 3 = 15wh

It's not very efficient but not 300 mah because you would need over 7 hours to charge the lipo which you don't.

5 x 300 x 7 = 10.5wh

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

drmarble

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I believe the low charging rate is what you get from a standard 0.5 amp usb port. New usb c ports and high amp chargers will charge at a 1 amp rate. Some usb ports don't recognize the dna as accepting high currents and only charge at 0.5 amps. A high amp phone charger with a good cord (cords are very important, my dollar store cables only let me charge at ~0.3 amps) should give you a full amp of charging current.
 

Spirometry

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That's odd considering that my 950mah lipo charges from empty to full in about 3 hours

11.1 x 950 = 10.55wh
5 x 1000 x 3 = 15wh

It's not very efficient but not 300 mah because you would need over 7 hours to charge the lipo which you don't.

5 x 300 x 7 = 10.5wh

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

300 mah x 3 hours = 900mah, that is pretty close to your 3 hours for a 950 pack.

11.1 volts x 0.3 amps x 3 hours = 9.99wh
 
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