DNA 200 Watt

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AtmizrOpin

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what are the remedies thus far for an erradic bouncing of temp in device monitor while vaping the ss csv's from wire wiz? Does it with all ss csv's. climbs close to temp then looks like the rocky mountains. wont reach set temp even at 200 warts. EX: set temp to 450°f 70watts and bounces around 410\425°f. just a crazy vape. wicking is good.
 
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dwcraig1

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This wire is unknown at the moment but behaves like stainless, here is my live view after doctoring up Steamengines CRV for I think 304 SS
12039490_1091951807495709_5930365742591635033_n.jpg

And the doctored up part.
12065997_1091945897496300_7348430381756455810_n.jpg

I had that choppy temp line prior to the "doctor visit"
This passed the dry cotton test BTW
My temp setting is 450F @ 28 watts with 35 watt preheat
 

AtmizrOpin

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This wire is unknown at the moment but behaves like stainless, here is my live view after doctoring up Steamengines CRV for I think 304 SS
12039490_1091951807495709_5930365742591635033_n.jpg

And the doctored up part.
12065997_1091945897496300_7348430381756455810_n.jpg

I had that choppy temp line prior to the "doctor visit"
This passed the dry cotton test BTW
My temp setting is 450F @ 28 watts with 35 watt preheat
You got sum nife48/52? I might get sum myself if that's what you're using.
 

Mad Scientist

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Or he may be interested in mine here (in this thread) lol. Funny thing is, we're the customers. I vape for max performance and he may need to start thinking about how to cater to how many of us think it should work, not the other way around.

I am a total evolv fanboy but as soon as someone starts telling me why I shouldn't want a feature I want, that just means it's hard to do so they don't want to do it lol.
 

Mactavish

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I don't mind the TP WARNING/CONFIRMATION message, now that I know it's a good thing, and you can turn it off. BUT,
I'm still lost as to why changing my watts from 10-200, has little effect on the vapor production, when the manual itself says that's what it's supposed to do. Either low or high watt settings, get me to my set temp in seconds, as I see the TP confirmation, and that's a good thing. But my vapor and puff do not seem to be effected at all. It's not a bad vape as I get to the temp I have figured out that gets me the vape I want, but it reminds me of the iStick 40w TC device where you don't get a wattage choice, only your chosen temp setting. Maybe I'm missing something right in front of my face, so to speak! :)
 

Mad Scientist

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^^^ If that's James #2 post in that thread I thought that was great, not that certain features should or shouldn't be added though. I thought he did a good job of explaining it as it currently applies.

You're right. I was reading into it (allowing default function of the up/down buttons to be configurable -- depending on how the existing software was designed, that might be a pita to do now, but that's what I want it to do).
 
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Mad Scientist

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I don't mind the TP WARNING/CONFIRMATION message, now that I know it's a good thing, and you can turn it off. BUT,
I'm still lost as to why changing my watts from 10-200, has little effect on the vapor production, when the manual itself says that's what it's supposed to do. Either low or high watt settings, get me to my set temp in seconds, as I see the TP confirmation, and that's a good thing. But my vapor and puff do not seem to be effected at all. It's not a bad vape as I get to the temp I have figured out that gets me the vape I want, but it reminds me of the iStick 40w TC device where you don't get a wattage choice, only your chosen temp setting. Maybe I'm missing something right in front of my face, so to speak! :)

Can you post a screenshot of device manager with temp and power checked to graph? Also, what are your preheat settings? My first thought is that preheat is driving most of your vape. Else, 10 watts is enough to make your build perform.
 
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HolmanGT

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I don't mind the TP WARNING/CONFIRMATION message, now that I know it's a good thing, and you can turn it off. BUT,
I'm still lost as to why changing my watts from 10-200, has little effect on the vapor production, when the manual itself says that's what it's supposed to do. Either low or high watt settings, get me to my set temp in seconds, as I see the TP confirmation, and that's a good thing. But my vapor and puff do not seem to be effected at all. It's not a bad vape as I get to the temp I have figured out that gets me the vape I want, but it reminds me of the iStick 40w TC device where you don't get a wattage choice, only your chosen temp setting. Maybe I'm missing something right in front of my face, so to speak! :)

Mactavish,

Your not missing anything. regardless of of the wattage you have set once it reaches the TP set-point the coil will not get any hotter and of course if you reach TP with 10 watts setting it to 200 watts will not have any effect on vapor production.

Once you reach TP it will work exactly like your iStick and effectively control the coil temperature at the TP by backing off the wattage applied to the coil. So in fact the TP temperature becomes the control point. You can verify that using eScribe Dev Monitor and watch the temperature climb to the TP value and then hover very close to that value whether you have applied 10 watts or 200 watts. and you will also see in eScribe that you never really apply more than the 10 watts that got you to the TP point (and you may even find that you are not putting the full 10 watts to the coil).

The only way to get more vapor production is to set the TP higher and/or increase the wick efficiency and/or increase the surface contact between the coil and wick all of which will increase the vapor production and tend to lower the temperature of the coil allowing you to put more power to the coil without hitting TP.

With a 50/50 juice you should not hit TP of 450 F if all the items I mentioned are optimized in fact you will probably notice that around 20 - 25 watts will idle at around 400 degrees F and never hit TP during a normal Vape draw.

By the way in the somewhat contentious debate about what "James" said on the Evolv E.A.F. is exactly what I am saying here the only difference is he did it with more elegance than I am capable of.
 

Mactavish

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RainZG

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Question, in escribe when I configure my 3 charging field options and upload settings, it doesn't show what I selected. Even when the lightening bolt is showing it still shows my default fields not my charging fields. Any thoughts?

change "Charging brightness" to 50%
DNA200 goes to charge screen after about 30 seconds(right when screen fades)
 
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Mactavish

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Can you post a screenshot of device manager with temp and power checked to graph? Also, what are your preheat settings? My first thought is that preheat is driving most of your vape. Else, 10 watts is enough to make your build perform.

Thanks as always for your interest. I am not really sure yet how to read the graphs in Escribe, but here are 3 screen shots, at 10, 35, 200 watts, 3 second TEST PUFFS.
My preheat is default: 200 watts (I have read this is not a high number as it only goes to 50% of your set temp)
Punch: 5 (middle position on slider scale)
Perheat Time Limit: 1s

This is a Subtank RBA, Unkaman 26 gauge Titanium. 6 wraps on 3mm, 32 ohms. Using the Steam Engine Ti TCR curve.
Let me know if you see anything obvious here, and THANKS!

10_Watts.jpg 35_Watts.jpg 200_Watts.jpg
 

Mactavish

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Mactavish,

Your not missing anything. regardless of of the wattage you have set once it reaches the TP set-point the coil will not get any hotter and of course if you reach TP with 10 watts setting it to 200 watts will not have any effect on vapor production.

Once you reach TP it will work exactly like your iStick and effectively control the coil temperature at the TP by backing off the wattage applied to the coil. So in fact the TP temperature becomes the control point. You can verify that using eScribe Dev Monitor and watch the temperature climb to the TP value and then hover very close to that value whether you have applied 10 watts or 200 watts. and you will also see in eScribe that you never really apply more than the 10 watts that got you to the TP point (and you may even find that you are not putting the full 10 watts to the coil).

The only way to get more vapor production is to set the TP higher and/or increase the wick efficiency and/or increase the surface contact between the coil and wick all of which will increase the vapor production and tend to lower the temperature of the coil allowing you to put more power to the coil without hitting TP.

With a 50/50 juice you should not hit TP of 450 F if all the items I mentioned are optimized in fact you will probably notice that around 20 - 25 watts will idle at around 400 degrees F and never hit TP during a normal Vape draw.

By the way in the somewhat contentious debate about what "James" said on the Evolv E.A.F. is exactly what I am saying here the only difference is he did it with more elegance than I am capable of.

THanks for the reply, I value your opinion, you can check my Escribe screen grabs as well, should be a post or so above this one. Glad to know TP is working properly on my new LavaBox DNA200, I never owned an iStick 40 TC, I just use that as an example of a device that only uses Temp Control to adjust vape. I understand there may be some ways to build and wick a coil that may result in not hitting or getting the TP message, but I'm a fairly new builder and am using very simple coils, as you can see in the same message with my screen shots. There is only so much room in a Subtank over the bottom air hole to keep the coils above, 6 wraps of 26 gauge Ti, covers this area nicely. I have tried KGD cotton, both thin and thick, don't see much difference, prefer a good amount of cotton through the SubTank RBA side holes, keeps extra juice out and lowers chances of flooding. I have also grown to prefer higher VG juices these days.
 

HolmanGT

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Mactavish,

Give me a little time I am going to fire mine up and double check the charts for comparison.

1. What is your PG/VG mix?
2. What is your coil resistance?
3. What was your original grip... weak vapor?

By the way your TP control looks decent but let me check mine and I'll be back in a couple.
 

Mad Scientist

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Thanks as always for your interest. I am not really sure yet how to read the graphs in Escribe, but here are 3 screen shots, at 10, 35, 200 watts, 3 second TEST PUFFS.
My preheat is default: 200 watts (I have read this is not a high number as it only goes to 50% of your set temp)
Punch: 5 (middle position on slider scale)
Perheat Time Limit: 1s

This is a Subtank RBA, Unkaman 26 gauge Titanium. 6 wraps on 3mm, 32 ohms. Using the Steam Engine Ti TCR curve.
Let me know if you see anything obvious here, and THANKS!

View attachment 501337 View attachment 501338 View attachment 501339

Something is definitely not right. Those displayed temps on a wet coil with barely a few watts says to me resistance is rising with temp more than the board expects. To try to rule out another variable, set the TCR in"special" to 0.004 in one of the profiles, upload the settings and then select that profile to use. Run the same tests and see if the results change. If not, it could be the intermediate connection for the positive pin in the subtank.
 

Mactavish

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Mactavish,

Give me a little time I am going to fire mine up and double check the charts for comparison.

1. What is your PG/VG mix?
2. What is your coil resistance?
3. What was your original grip... weak vapor?

By the way your TP control looks decent but let me check mine and I'll be back in a couple.

1. This one is I think 80vg
2. Shown in graph as .32 ohms
3. The DNA200 manual basically says "wattage" is what effects vapor production, not temperature, on my Titanium coil build .32 ohms, the vapor is the same at 10 watts and 200 watts. I see very little if any change in my vapor or puff when using the wattage up/down setting. TP does work, as I see the error/confirmation message in about 3 seconds!
 
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