DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds

[ED-209]

Is anyone having their chip kick into voltage on the display, and staying there for a bit, even with the Ni builds?

It's happened a couple times, and I locked it, went into temp settings, ticked it up one and down one, and set/unlocked it and it would be back to temp display.
Yesterday though it was an all-day thing. It appeared to be working properly, but was constantly showing voltage, even when firing instead of the temp display.
I took the kayfun off all night, charged up the Hana, and now it's back to temp display ..... weird. LOL

Mines doing the EXACT same thing. I've rebuilt several coils, the posts are screwed down as much as they can be. I'm using a Russian V2 I've tried adjusting the post screw and that seemed to help but it mainly happens when firing it from the sleep mode. If I do a couple of short burst fires the temperature mode stays on, otherwise it will go back to displaying volts. What's weird is my ohms initially started around .20 or so ohms (28 GA Nickel with 12 wraps and contact coil) but now the resistance is up to .30 ohms.

I'm glad I'm not the only one but very frustrated after paying $250 for the Hana Mod. I know they have a 90 day warranty but does that just count replacing or does that include returning for a refund as I'm now thinking it's the device (possible the 510 connection) since you are using a kayfun and I'm using the Russian v2. I am wondering if I just need to get a VaporShark or Vapor Flask as it seems no one has reported these types of issues with those devices.

Let me know if you find out anything else, a fix or if you are able to return yours or if they only offer to replace it.

 

[BluSwatch]

I put in a message to Hana Mods, so we'll see what they say.

It may be a question for Evolv though.

 

[Spudpucker]

I've had my Hana for over a week now and I haven't noticed a single problem. The DNA 40 has worked flawlessly. I drip 99% of the time, and I've found 32G ni200 at 10 spaced noncontact wraps in dual coil gives me .16 ohms. I've re-coiled a bvc for my mini (although the rayon I'm using is having wicking issues mostly due to re-assembly technique) but it reads fine and goes into protect mode as well. My only single complaint is that I got the Hana and not the Bap.

 

[KGie]

I totally re-did the coil, 30g Ni, 6 wraps, 3mm, reading 0.20 ohms, put it on .... was fine for 3 hits, now back to voltage display.

Yep .... this isn't working out. This is probably coil #10?
(and I do know how to wrap. LOL)

Oh wait .... put a dripper on it, and it's back to temp control ..... Kill me, just kill me now.

30 gauge, 6 wraps and it's .2 ohms? I believe that's sorta' high for that build. (Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.) If it is higher than typical for that build, I'd say you've got a bad connection -- 510, posts, somewhere. Considering people have had trouble with the fixed 510 post on the Hana, that would be my first guess as the culprit.

 

[erer]

When my hana goes into voltage mode, I let the coil cool down and take the battery out and in. Only happens for me when building a new coil. its happened to me twice now.

 

[DejayRezme]

You can try to check if the measured resistance "makes sense" with steam-engine.org. A 3mm ID 30GA single coil with 0.2 ohm should be 8.87 wraps, not six. These connection problems certainly suck. This might prove more fiddly for some.

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

You can also try letting the atty cool down, disconnect, press fire to get check atty prompt, reconnect and select new coil.

I only had problems with the post through holes so far. When my screen works that is lol. Sometimes my resistance creeps up to 0.11 ohm and then the temp control doesn't kick in fast enough. After retightening the post screws (again) the resistance goes back to 0.10 and tc kicks in.

When the DNA40 displays volts it's not sensing the nickel wire at all.

 

[OthatGuy]

Can anybody give me the size of the screws that hold the Hana door on please?

 

[BluSwatch]

You can try to check if the measured resistance "makes sense" with steam-engine.org. A 3mm ID 30GA single coil with 0.2 ohm should be 8.87 wraps, not six. These connection problems certainly suck. This might prove more fiddly for some.

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

You can also try letting the atty cool down, disconnect, press fire to get check atty prompt, reconnect and select new coil.

I only had problems with the post through holes so far. When my screen works that is lol. Sometimes my resistance creeps up to 0.11 ohm and then the temp control doesn't kick in fast enough. After retightening the post screws (again) the resistance goes back to 0.10 and tc kicks in.

When the DNA40 displays volts it's not sensing the nickel wire at all.

Welp .... it was sensing my Kanthal 0.8ohm Kayfun build for about 20 minutes.

 

[MattyT]

I have had the same issue with my Hana as well. For the first 2 days the temp control worked without an issue with a .1 ish build in my kayfun and then all of a sudden it wouldn't stay in temp control, it would randomly switch in and out but mainly would stay out of temp control. Now I dont know if this happened with anyone else but when mine went into voltage mode the vape would become very weak and then when it would go back into temp control the vape would become, for a lack of a better word, strong. Wrapped numerous coils and did the same type of tricks that many of you have mentioned and nothing did the trick. After giving up I threw on an atty with a Kanthal build at 1.3 ohms and then the DNA was running it in temp control which coincidentally made it vape much stronger when set to my normal wattage for that atty and build. I did everything I could think of to try and make it stop regulating my Kanthal build in temp control and nothing worked, so its working completely backwards. Called Hana Modz and got an RMA and sent it to them to be repaired so it will be interesting to see what happens and what they say.

 

[OthatGuy]

Can someone please tell me what size screws hold the door on the hana? Or just the Diameter of the shaft and head?

 

[MattyT]

Can someone please tell me what size screws hold the door on the hana? Or just the Diameter of the shaft and head?

I dont know the answer to your question but my suggestion would be to go to your local hardware store with your Hana, they will have a huge selection of screws of all sizes that you can try to find the correct size. Do you have a Ace Hardware on the West coast? If so thats where I would go.

 

[OthatGuy]

I don't have one yet it's in the mail, but I have to order some magnets so I wanted to get them in the same order.

Can anyone measure theirs?

 

[ED-209]

I have had the same issue with my Hana as well. For the first 2 days the temp control worked without an issue with a .1 ish build in my kayfun and then all of a sudden it wouldn't stay in temp control, it would randomly switch in and out but mainly would stay out of temp control. Now I dont know if this happened with anyone else but when mine went into voltage mode the vape would become very weak and then when it would go back into temp control the vape would become, for a lack of a better word, strong. Wrapped numerous coils and did the same type of tricks that many of you have mentioned and nothing did the trick. After giving up I threw on an atty with a Kanthal build at 1.3 ohms and then the DNA was running it in temp control which coincidentally made it vape much stronger when set to my normal wattage for that atty and build. I did everything I could think of to try and make it stop regulating my Kanthal build in temp control and nothing worked, so its working completely backwards. Called Hana Modz and got an RMA and sent it to them to be repaired so it will be interesting to see what happens and what they say.

You are now the 3rd person, as far as I've read on this forum\thread, that has this issue where the temperature mode goes on and off with Nickel. Just today my atty was showing .28 ohms and the only way U could keep the temperature mode on from a cold fire (when display is off) is by doing a couple of quick fires till the temperature rose to about 150 degrees then the preheat would start, otherwise it would go back to volt display. Another odd thing was that the ohms was at .27 and then when I used the device after it was not used for about 15 minutes it then read .49 ohms all of a sudden and I didn't do anything like unscrew the atty, or remove the battery, etc. On mine, if the ohms doesn't read below .30 ohms it seems the temperature mode will not come on or stay on.

Did Hana Modz give you any trouble? I assume their warranty is to just either fix or replace as I didn't see any refund option listed.

Please let us know what happens and how long it takes.

I hate this is happening but glad I'm not the only one.

 

[OthatGuy]

Think it's happening with any mods besides the hanas, hard anything about flasks with this problem? Maybe it's the 510 connector....

 

[MattyT]

You are now the 3rd person, as far as I've read on this forum\thread, that has this issue where the temperature mode goes on and off with Nickel. Just today my atty was showing .28 ohms and the only way U could keep the temperature mode on from a cold fire (when display is off) is by doing a couple of quick fires till the temperature rose to about 150 degrees then the preheat would start, otherwise it would go back to volt display. Another odd thing was that the ohms was at .27 and then when I used the device after it was not used for about 15 minutes it then read .49 ohms all of a sudden and I didn't do anything like unscrew the atty, or remove the battery, etc. On mine, if the ohms doesn't read below .30 ohms it seems the temperature mode will not come on or stay on.

Did Hana Modz give you any trouble? I assume their warranty is to just either fix or replace as I didn't see any refund option listed.

Please let us know what happens and how long it takes.

I hate this is happening but glad I'm not the only one.

LoL I am glad I am not the only one too as much as it sucks to say that.

I saw fluctuations in my ohms as well but only when the issue with the temp control came about. I tried everything to get the temp control to stay on, the quick fires like you mentioned as well as going in and turning the temp control off, firing the coil, and then going back in and turning it back on and it had no effect. When I called they said to make sure my coils were evenly spaced and that the leads of the coil were screwed down tight, I told them they were and it was still happening. They were very apologetic about what was happening and e-mailed me the RMA to be filled out and sent in with the unit. I sent it out today and it should arrive to them on Wednesday. I will post back on what happens when I hear back from them.

 

[OthatGuy]

Sucky... Best of luck bud.

 

[boomer357]

I noticed some fluctuation in the ohm reading +\- .02. I'm running a magma RDA 28ga ni200 9 wraps at .16 ohm. Great vape so far. I built the kayfun to .19 ohm and it had a very warm to hot vape. Temp control still worked with both. I'll have to play with the kayfun to get a better vape. So far so good but today is only day 1, so there is still plenty that can happen.

 

[BluSwatch]

What Hana Modz sent me ....

Hi Barb,

It may fluctuate from temp mode if you do not have a secure connection to your coils. Please make sure your coils are properly tightened down with the atomizer screws. Also you may want to wrap the coils around the screws itself, not the through holes of the atomizer. (not an issue on a Kayfun)

Also make sure you have no shorts in the coil or coil build. If the dna40 senses a short it will not fire in temperature mode.

The dna40 may be a little more sensitive, but when set up right, the temperature protection works great. Also make sure you do not build the coil of your atomizer on the unit itself. Build the coil on a different device then place it on the dna40 to use. (built on an Ohm Box)


So ... not sure what the deal is, but I think it's just a touchy chip. I have no problems with my 510 connection. Who knows.
I didn't ask to send mine back, but would love to hear how yours comes back MattyT.

 

[TheKiwi]

Oops accidental post. Just creeping ignore me.

 

[RebelGolfer72]

Just a thought, as I'm looking at picking up a Hana box... Most mods will run the + & - leads from the board directly to the 510 connector. From what I have seen, and unless this has changed, or I am completely off-base, but on a Hana, isn't only the + lead going directly to the board, and the - is making contact through the case and there is a wire from the - spot on the board to the case a few mm from where the 510 screws in?
Since we are working with very low resistances here, I would think that the aluminum could be a minor factor, but couldn't having a less than ideal connection(corrosion/loose) between the - lead lug and the case and or the 510 "sleeve" connection and the case be a possibility? If so, it doesn't take much resistance at all to knock some of these "higher ohm" (never thought is call 0.2 ohm high ohm!) builds out of temp mode?