DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds

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jsx821

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Hi guys, it's only been one day on my current coil. I used a 28ni with about 13wraps on a 5/64bit.
It seems that the coil is burning unevenly. Is this normal?

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SeniorBoy

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Hi guys, it's only been one day on my current coil. I used a 28ni with about 13wraps on a 5/64bit.
It seems that the coil is burning unevenly. Is this normal?

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By "uneven" I presume you are referring to the outer wraps. Yes it's "normal" IMHO. Ni200 last longer than Kanthal so it takes a longer time for the "outer wraps" to turn dark. At least that has been my observation over the last two weeks. I just looked at a R91 build with Ni and this build has been in use for about two weeks and only the last wrap on either end is silver colored. Early on the last two or three wraps were silver color.

HTH
 

abpigdoc

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By "uneven" I presume you are referring to the outer wraps. Yes it's "normal" IMHO. Ni200 last longer than Kanthal so it takes a longer time for the "outer wraps" to turn dark. At least that has been my observation over the last two weeks. I just looked at a R91 build with Ni and this build has been in use for about two weeks and only the last wrap on either end is silver colored. Early on the last two or three wraps were silver color.

HTH

I'm using about the same coil as this in my Erlkonigin. Inspecting my contact coil first attempt suggested the same findings as jsx. I found a great video on youtube showing a method of: 1) set temp control off on new build, 2) set watts at 13w and softly heat coil, 3) compress coil, reset temp and watts as desired. Coil will heat uniformly and juice will vaporize much more readily.
It's been about 10 days and 20ml of juice and I'm much happier with my DNA 40.
 
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Waterdog

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Mines doing the EXACT same thing. I've rebuilt several coils, the posts are screwed down as much as they can be. I'm using a Russian V2 I've tried adjusting the post screw and that seemed to help but it mainly happens when firing it from the sleep mode. If I do a couple of short burst fires the temperature mode stays on, otherwise it will go back to displaying volts. What's weird is my ohms initially started around .20 or so ohms (28 GA Nickel with 12 wraps and contact coil) but now the resistance is up to .30 ohms.

I'm glad I'm not the only one but very frustrated after paying $250 for the Hana Mod. I know they have a 90 day warranty but does that just count replacing or does that include returning for a refund as I'm now thinking it's the device (possible the 510 connection) since you are using a Kayfun and I'm using the Russian v2. I am wondering if I just need to get a VaporShark or Vapor Flask as it seems no one has reported these types of issues with those devices.

Let me know if you find out anything else, a fix or if you are able to return yours or if they only offer to replace it.

FYI having the same problems on almost the same build using nickel on a vapor flask. Such a let down since when it was working right it was awesome.
 

MattyT

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I mailed mine back to Hana Mods today .... I'll see what they come up with.

If they do whatever, and it's all good? I am cool with that. I liked my pink Hana. :toast:

Good to know you sent yours in as well. They received mine on 10/29 and I still haven't heard anything from them, not even an e-mail saying "Hey we received device". The only way I know that it got there was by checking the tracking info. If I don't hear something from them by this Wednesday, which will be one week, I am going to call or e-mail to see what the deal is. Very frustrating!!
 

DejayRezme

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    Someone else had a problem with a DIY hana clone with the ground connection to the case that produced these errors. So it might well be an internal problem.

    I've had the same problems with a new atty because it didn't have good contact internally from the positive post to the 510 center pin. After taking it properly apart, cleaning and screwing it tight it worked. So once you find the source of the connectivity problem, these F/V issues go away.
     

    DejayRezme

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    Well the other guy who had connection problems fixed his problem on his DIY hana style case from FT by sanding and cleaning the anodizing below the screw where the ear of the ground wire attaches and replacing the screw. I wouldn't recommend doing that though with an original though because of warranty. Especially if you're not sure if that's the real culprit.

    Don't know if you already tried different atomizers and made sure it's not the post connection?
     

    Mikey3

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    I have been having the same issue with my hana mod. Emailed evolve and heres what was said:

    Hi Mike,
    Your atomizer is likely adding too much resistance to the current path. Try cleaning the atty thoroughly and if you are using through post connectors to connect the coil, try moving the legs to the top of the posts (screw terminals).

    Im using a kayfun and every coil change i clean it thoroughly. The contacts are tightened and on a fresh coil it utilizes temp. But as soon as its assembled and filled it goes back to voltage/watts
     

    MidwestGuy

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    After a few days vaping my 12-13 wrap Ni200 28AWG microcoils - I've noticed what quite a few have - dark/brownish in the center, clean on the outsides. I don't seem to notice any burnt flavors or issues with my juices, the thing vapes wonderfully. At this point I'm not going to worry about it... but wondering if this could become a flavor/taste issue in the future. There isn't much room for spaced coils in the Kayfun if I want to hit the correct resistance range, and also want to keep as much coil area on top of the airflow port as possible.
     

    MidwestGuy

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    I'm using about the same coil as this in my Erlkonigin. Inspecting my contact coil first attempt suggested the same findings as jsx. I found a great video on youtube showing a method of: 1) set temp control off on new build, 2) set watts at 13w and softly heat coil, 3) compress coil, reset temp and watts as desired. Coil will heat uniformly and juice will vaporize much more readily.
    It's been about 10 days and 20ml of juice and I'm much happier with my DNA 40.

    Do you have a link to the video? Even with that low power, doesn't it still "yellow" the coils a bit?
     

    SeniorBoy

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    Is anyone having their chip kick into voltage on the display, and staying there for a bit, even with the Ni builds?

    It's happened a couple times, and I locked it, went into temp settings, ticked it up one and down one, and set/unlocked it and it would be back to temp display.
    Yesterday though it was an all-day thing. It appeared to be working properly, but was constantly showing voltage, even when firing instead of the temp display.
    I took the Kayfun off all night, charged up the Hana, and now it's back to temp display ..... weird. LOL

    I'm using an XPV 40 and my DNA40 has no screen glitches or on and off behavior. My Mod is rock solid with no strange behavior. My topper is a R91 (V1) with what I think is a rock solid build and wick. My settings (420F @ 13.5W) are designed to eliminate the TP warning for the duration of the various kinds of draws I take thought the day. Using Ni and set to TP: On occasion the screen will read V on the first or second pull and I can tell from the draw that Boost did not kick in. It's still vapable but slighty less flavor. Then it corrects itself and V is gone, Boost is working and I'm a happy camper. My board has never reset/on or off. When the V display does happen I kinda ignore it and move on. Not a big deal since it NEVER gets stuck in V mode. A version 1 glitch is my best guess.

    EDIT: Forgot to mention that the frequency of what I described above as a version 1 glitch can best be described as it's happening more often when compared to a new build. Frankly, all I care about is a consistent full flavored vape, which produces my own required vapor production, and never experiencing the TP warning during the various types of draws I take thought the day. One could argue that perhaps the build has shifted and or the wicking ability has changed but even if it has it's a non issue because I am not experiencing a TP warning.
     
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    abpigdoc

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    Do you have a link to the video? Even with that low power, doesn't it still "yellow" the coils a bit?

    i found it under "Basic Ni200 microcoil builds for DNA 40" and yes, there is slight discoloration on my rayon after 5 tanks in my Erlkonigin, and minimal buildup on the coil...still the best thing that I've ever imagined! I just got some titanium 28g from GG and rolled a 1.1 ohm microcoil for my Rose/ZNA, and the flavor has improved greatly over my old Rene 41 builds. Need about 30% more wire, but easier to work with--much like Kanthal.
     

    DejayRezme

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    On occasion the screen will read V on the first or second pull and I can tell from the draw that Boost did not kick in. It's still vapable but slighty less flavor. Then it corrects itself and V is gone, Boost is working and I'm a happy camper.

    I think this only happens if you have some resistance fluctuations / connectivity problems. I have a dual contact coil now in my magma. Since I still have to use stealth mode I can't tell if it's working as intended or just great ;)
     

    RebelGolfer72

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    Well the other guy who had connection problems fixed his problem on his DIY hana style case from FT by sanding and cleaning the anodizing below the screw where the ear of the ground wire attaches and replacing the screw. I wouldn't recommend doing that though with an original though because of warranty. Especially if you're not sure if that's the real culprit.

    Don't know if you already tried different atomizers and made sure it's not the post connection?

    That is what I suspected when I heard about problems with Hana boxes throwing out problems. Aluminum is a very good conductor, however it oxidizes very easily. Likewise, connections between aluminum and other metals are notorious for being troublesome.
     

    MidwestGuy

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    An update on my personal build experimentation... I've built several different types of coils with both 28AWG and 30AWG Ni200. Some spaced, some contact micro coils, some ridiculously long (in order to hit a target resistance), inner diameters from ~2.4 up to 3.1mm.

    First off, in my experimentation, I've experienced all different sorts of vapes ... cool, warm, mild flavor, lots of flavor, crackling/dramatic popping (hot spot!), instant TP with no flavor and minimal vapor, too much vapor and heat, you name it.

    I've determined that I like a warm vape, something I've never been able to consistently achieve before in a Kayfun without eventually burning the juice/cotton. I've found that the DNA40 can give me that warm vape that I crave with no worry of burning anything when the temperature control kicks in.

    In order to get that warm, tasty vape (all using KGD organic cotton in a Kayfun):
    1. Must use 28AWG. 30AWG would produce an OK vape, but I always found it rather cool and would still hit TP almost immediately, no matter what coil config I tried.
    2. Must be a contact microcoil. I'm wrapping the 28AWG as tight and close as possible using a homemade jig not unlike other aluminum blocks seen around here. I will dry fire it at very low wattage to barely glow the coils; this seems to be enough heat to warm the Ni200 enough to compress it without causing severe discoloration or other deformation, off-gassing weirdness, etc. that I've seen first hand or heard from others.
    3. It seems the larger the coil, the better... I haven't tried my 1/8" (3.1mm) mandrel yet, but it works well on my 2.4mm and 2.7mm. I hope to try 3.1mm tomorrow when my stock of 28AWG Ni200 arrives. My guess: larger coil and thicker wire = more surface area, more cotton holds more juice to deliver to all of that surface area while also keeping the larger coil cool enough.
    4. Device set at 420 degrees, and again, around 18 watts.

    With this configuration, the Kayfun will emit a beautiful, mild sizzle producing a warm, flavorful, perfect vape EVERY TIME. Loving it so far.

    The Ni200 definitely takes some time to get used to. I haven't noticed much of a difference from "work hardening" ... but still do work harden a little bit before using coil.

    One of the most horrid annoyances of working with Ni200... about 50% of the time, I will snap a leg when tightening the posts on the Kayfun. In order to reduce the frequency of this, I do the following:
    • Wrap the leg around the post, but not quite all the way/not a full loop. 3/4 wrap around (the leg end will be at a 90% angle of the leg start around the screw) seems to work best. Not sure why this helps but it does seem to help.
    • This stuff WILL GET STUCK on your mandrel. Polish your mandrel if you can to make it as smooth as possible. I've also found that lubricating the mandrel with a little bit of juice before and during the wrapping and mounting will help when you're ready to remove the mandrel from the coil after installing it in your atomizer.

    Will keep this thread updated with anything else I find/notice/discover ...
     
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