Do any vendors have Smoktech e-Power 14650 kits in stock right now?

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John D in CT

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I thought the switch with blue led was the newest version. I know I vape 1.7 resurrectors with it. It doesn't have a five click off option though.

Smoktech E-Power PCB Switch – 14650

New switch with 5 click on/off feature, smokey hard button & blue LED (Right switch in the picture).

These are the newest switches, and are very responsive. The best we've seen for the 14650 yet!

Unregulated voltage (4.2v)

Warranty DOA


14650 E-Power Switch

And I think I've found the answer to my question about stacking 16430's in a 14650 case. Looks to me as if the 16430's are fatter than the 14650's, and are probably the same diameter as the 18650's. If anything, they might fit an 18650 case.

Or better yet, buy a Provari.
 

John D in CT

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IIRC the new switch does have a blue LED but it also has the on/off feature. The previous switch was a white LED that didn't work with LR cartos I think.

I can't find it right now, but I thought I saw on a vendor's site that the new switch was cleared for use with 1.5's.

Wait, it's all coming back to me now - they said you could use dual coil 1.5's because they're essentially (their words, not mine) two 3-ohm coils that are wired to yield 1.5. True?

My strategy is going to be to try whatever the hell I want on them and see what blows up.

I was just beginning to think I was on the wrong track starting people out on 3.7 volts, but it occurs to me that I've been thoroughly enjoying my 3.4v Joyetech eGo-T, so my friends will be fine at 3.7. Plus, they'll be able to appreciate the difference when and if they starting rocking VV.

Still would love to hear any first-hand experience of the -C and -T atomizers on a Smoktech 14650 power unit.

Also, what exactly is the deal between regulated and unregulated switches? I'm getting these kits with unregulated; does that simply mean that the vape will change slightly as the voltage drops? Does it mean that the power unit might start out delivering like 4.2 volts fresh off the charger? Inquiring minds want to know.

Thanks!
 

John D in CT

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I just got one of the Ego 18650 units over at COV, love this thing so much more then my e-power

Yeah, I just didn't want to scare people. That thing looks freakin' huge, and some of these people are the kind who would want to start out with a ciggie-look-alike, which I refuse to do. For someone who wants to stop smoking, isn't the desire to get a PV that looks like a cigarette kind of a like a holocaust survivor wanting to wear a Nazi uniform?

One thing I'm curious about; the 18650 is the same voltage as the 14650, so what it it that you like better? Just the improved battery life?

And to all; this is my dog.
 

Richie G

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And I think I've found the answer to my question about stacking 16430's in a 14650 case. Looks to me as if the 16430's are fatter than the 14650's, and are probably the same diameter as the 18650's. If anything, they might fit an 18650 case.

Those battery numbers all have a meaning, John. The first two numbers refer to the battery's diameter. The second two numbers are the battery's length and the "0" refers to it being a round battery. So, some basic math tells us which batteries will fit where. That said... don't stack batteries. <obligatory battery safety statement>
 

John D in CT

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Those battery numbers all have a meaning, John. The first two numbers refer to the battery's diameter. The second two numbers are the battery's length and the "0" refers to it being a round battery. So, some basic math tells us which batteries will fit where. That said... don't stack batteries. <obligatory battery safety statement>

Richie, that is positively wizard - so simple, once ya know; and I'm fairly sure that's millimeters; just measured the diameter of my Joye eGo battery and it's around 14mm, which is reassuring. I wanted the 14650's power units to be about the same diameter, and it loks like that's the case.

To all - still wondering about:

" .. what exactly is the deal between regulated and unregulated switches? I'm getting these kits with unregulated; does that simply mean that the vape will change slightly as the voltage drops? Does it mean that the power unit might start out delivering like 4.2 volts fresh off the charger? Inquiring minds want to know".

Thanks.
 

Richie G

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Wow all so very simple on the battery description. I've been on here for two years and haven't seen that posted before! I just never put the numbers together as far as being the dia and length.

Glad you got something out of the post, Tex. Hey, if you get a chance click your way over to the flashlight forums -- yeah there is such a thing, this is not an April Fool's joke. The flashlight geeks know all there is to know about batteries and whatnot. And the best part of visiting THEIR world is that us vapers feel MUCH better about ourselves for spending money on our little obsession. It's easy to justify spending $200 on a vaping mod when we see what THEY spend on flashlights, of all things. LOL

Lemme put it this way... the flashlight geeks know more about batteries then you do about echos! (okay, maybe I'm stretching it) <g>
 

mynameisrob

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I think you'll def be happy with the Epowers.

For your question about the switches, there has now been 4 switches released since the Epower was introduced, mostly just to fix previous issues/problems. The first switch had a blue LED and rubber button. They worked well, but the rubber button would stick easily and/or fall out. So then they came out with the second switch. That switch was exactly the same except they replaced the rubber button with a hard plastic one. The 2nd switch worked well and was what came with Epower kits for quite awhile. The first 2 switches were both rated to use 1.5ohm and up.
Then this is where it gets alittle confusing. About 4 months ago they decided to bring out another switch which had a white LED and 5-click on/off feature for the first time. This is the switch that have the Epower a bad name for quite awhile bc Smoktech totally screwed it up. For some reason they made the white LED switch rated to use only 2.0ohm and up. This caused a huge problem bc many people bought them since that was the first switch that allowed you to turn the unit on and off, but then quickly realized that they wouldn't work if you tried to use anything below 2.0ohm. This ...... alot of people off bc the older blue LED switches worked great with 1.5ohm, 1.7ohm cartos, but now with the white LED switch they wouldn't work. So that's when many people stopped recOmmending the Epower bc most kits were coming with the white LED switches, and that meant you couldn't use anything low resistance. QuIte a few vendors went back to the 2nd gen blue LED switches and put them in the kit instead of the white LED switches. While they didn't have the5-click on/off feature, at least they worked well low resistance cartos. So then finally about 2 months ago, Smoktech brought out the newest switch, which is the one available now and the one that comes with the Epower kit from Sweet-vapes. This switch was basically just brought out to replace the white lED switch that they screwed up so bad on. The newest switch has a blue LED and is rated to use 1.5ohm and up, like the older blue LED switches, but now it also has the 5-click on/off feature like the white LED switch had.
The newest switch works great and fires the 1.7ohm Ressurectors, 1.5ohm Epower dual coils, etc. yOull def be happy wih the Epower, and that's one of the reasons I recommend you get the Epower from Sweet-vapes, bc I know their kits come with the newest switch.
For the question you asked about the batteries earlier, neither the 1050mah or 950mah "high-drain" batteries are AW batteries. Regardless they do work well and I have both of them. The 1050mah batteries are the regular ones that cone with the Epower kit. I get on avg a day to a day and a half on one battery. I generally just pop in a fresh battery every morning before I go to work, so I never really let them drain all the way down, which is better to do anyway bc the batteries will last longer that way and you'll skip the big drop off in performance that you get from using a battery that's almost completely drained.
The IMR "high-drain" 950mah batteries also work well. Since they are LIMn batteries, they are a safer chemistry, which means they don't have a Protection circuit in them like the 1050mah batteries do. Since they don't have a built in protection circuit, they are ever so slightly shorter than the 1050mah batteries. They are both still 14650 batteries, but the protection circuit makes the 1050mah ones a tad bit longer. you might not have to do this, but for my Epower I noticed that I could hear the high-drain battery jiggling around slightly when I shook my Epower. It still makes a connection, but since it's a tad shorter it just doesn't push up against the switch as hard. To stop that from happening all I did was take the spring out of the bottom of the tube wih a paperclip and VERY carefully stretched the spring a TiNY bit, like 1/16 of an inch. Then put the spring back in and try it again. Doing that will make the high-drain battery sit a tiny bit higher which makes it push against the switch harder and it won't jiggle around. Again, you don't necessarily need to do this, but if the high-drain battery doesn't make a great connection this is how to fix it.
"high-drain" batteries basically just provide a more consistant voltage for longer. So when used in an unregulated PV, there won't be as noticeable of a drop off in performance as the battery drains.
Like I said, I've got both batteries and they both work well. Honestly I really don't notice much of a difference vape performance wise between the 2, if any at all. I have 3 of the regular 1050mah batteries and 1 of the IMR high-drain batteries, and I just rotate through them. They all work well and personally I don't think the 950mah high-drains work any better than the regular 1050mah batteries. 2 of the 1050 mah batteries that I have are the original ones that came with my Epower kit. I've used them daily for about 7-8months now and they still work awesome and last just as long as when I got them.
So I really don't think you could go wrong with either one for the Epower kits. If it were me I would prob get the regular 1050mah batteries just bc they will last alittle longer than the high-drains before needing a recharge.

Hope this helps!
 

John D in CT

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TLDR.

LOL, j/k :)

Excellent stuff as always Rob, thanks! I'm feeling pretty good right now, because that's exactly what I bought last weekend from sweet-vapes - four kits, newest/best switch, 1050mah batteries.

Great info on the batteries and switches; hard to believe how badly they screwed up the third switch. Doesn't take much to screw up a "killer device", like what's going on right now with the Smoktech Woo (sticking button, mysterious occasional battery draining). Maybe the total domination of the world by the Chinese will take a little longer than expected.

This all goes nicely with a long thread I've been participating in:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/283363-just-bought-my-first-ecig-13.html -

where I propose a two-step progression to vaping Nirvana - the same one you're taking - with an e-Power as Step One, and a ProVari V2 (or equivalent, if there really is one) as Step Two. No-brainer sticky-worthy slam dunk approach IMHO.

Thanks again, and keep up the good work - and as always, vape on. :)
 
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