Does ohm resistance matter on a mech?

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Thunderagevapekid

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Aug 17, 2015
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@Thunderagevapekid Please, do not get a mechanical device just quite yet.

There are many viable options out there concerning regulated mods, where you can learn from watching the screen, it really helps the entire process. What you see the screen showing you , can then be cross referenced on ECF by reading, and discussing options.

Were working with powers that have the ability to change our lives, for the better if we choose. This, we cannot afford to make the mistake of jumping in early.
Ive had a mech before just had to return because the battery was ....ed. But i do t know nor have much experience with them. Just really want to have a semi decent cloud blowing vape but very price effective. I dont know what to do at this point because mechs are the most cost efficient.
 

Thunderagevapekid

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Aug 17, 2015
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Don't do it Bro! It says "replacement for Sony VTC3 VTC4", and they are slyly not showing any branding on that wrapper. Those sony's are some of the most often counterfeited (and by that I mean buying reject batteries and wrapping them in the same color wrapper) and from the looks of that ad, those would seem likely counterfeit. At that price, they're not much of a deal anyway.

on the page linked below, it clearly states "If the label says ICR, TrustFire, UltraFire or doesn't really say anything identifiable, don't use it. The risk isn't worth it."
Battery Safety by Nick Morrissey – Redux Vapers Ltd

Here is where i recently bought mine. Genuine LG HE4 2500mAh 20a CDR. 4 for $20 shipped, and they come with protective cases:
Ebay Trusted Seller

If you HAVE to have the extra 5amps protection of a VTC4, for the cost of 400mAh (shorter life before recharge) you can get them here:
Ebay Trusted Seller VTC4
Yeah i was reading up on people just rewrapping ....ty batteries. Just really want a cost effective semi decent cloud blowing vape and that is mechs.
 

Cloudd

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Crude pipe bomb? Please, 18650 batteries are nothing compared to pipe bombs. LIPO setups are pipe bombs. The amount of gasses produced during a lipo failure is ridiculously large w/o a protective covering ( just aluminum pouch showing ).. Bought myself a smoke detector for my room so i don't die, haha.

I'll second the LiPo statement
Overrcharging LiPo has higher likelyhood for catastrophic failure than a shortout. LiPo will vent and turn crazy hot, then explode only after a long time of short circuit (3 mins), usually the venting sound, heat would be detected. IMR don't really vent and their chemistry is safe, they don't explode, they just get hot and leak.

gentle reminder to op (lol)
BUT THAT DOESN'T MEAN YOU DON'T NEED TO READ UP
 

Thunderagevapekid

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I'll second the LiPo statement
Overrcharging LiPo has higher likelyhood for catastrophic failure than a shortout. LiPo will vent and turn crazy hot, then explode only after a long time of short circuit (3 mins), usually the venting sound, heat would be detected. IMR don't really vent and their chemistry is safe, they don't explode, they just get hot and leak.

gentle reminder to op (lol)
BUT THAT DOESN'T MEAN YOU DON'T NEED TO READ UP
Lol and i thank you for that! Been doing plenty of reading since i posted this lol
 
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smokertovaper

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Cloudd

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Lol and i thank you for that! Been doing plenty of reading since i posted this lol

Soon you'll come across the voltage drop but lol that, to explain the effects of that is like trying to annoy you, if you're not a science student. The full undertanding of it isn't that complicated actually........
 

jpabs720

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I'm pretty new to this and cant offer much input but I can say go search baditude's blogs. anything and everything you need to know about battery safety and ohms, volts, watts, and authentic and rewrapped batteries can be found there. He breaks it down pretty well for people to understand.
 

LouisLeBeau

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Jul 23, 2013
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@Thunderagevapekid

I'm not familiar with the Protank 3, but just FYI, a fresh battery on a coil @.8 ohms is going to produce a little over 20 watts of heat. Thats a bit on the hot side. By the time it drains down to nominal (3.7v) you'll still be at 17 watts and at 3.2v (time to recharge) at 13 watts. Going to be a hot vape. If you can get coils in the 1.5ohm range, you might find that more comfortable and less likely to burn your juice. You can check the numbers here:

Ohm's law | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
 

Mooch

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    I'll second the LiPo statement
    Overrcharging LiPo has higher likelyhood for catastrophic failure than a shortout. LiPo will vent and turn crazy hot, then explode only after a long time of short circuit (3 mins), usually the venting sound, heat would be detected. IMR don't really vent and their chemistry is safe, they don't explode, they just get hot and leak.

    I respectfully disagree...
    Both overcharging and overcurrent can cause LiPo venting or thermal runaway. This can happen in a couple of seconds or it can happen in minutes. It all depends on the battery temperature and internal pressure. ICR/LiPo does have a more violent reaction in thermal runaway though. And ICR/LiPo runaway can ignite the solvent in the electrolyte, causing a fire.

    While ICR/LiPo has a lower thermal runaway threshold temperature and higher temperature during runaway, than IMR and the hybrid chemistries (INR, etc.), IMR definitely can vent or go into thermal runaway. IMR chemistry is safer than INR which is safer than LiPo, but none of them are safe. Abuse them to their breaking point and you've got trouble. I've had dozens of IMR and IMR batteries vent during my testing for clients. And a couple of ICR thermal runaways...very...not...fun.
     

    vapero

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    Everyone has the battery covered on this thread so I won't repeat

    What mood are you thinking of getting?
    I don't know about the protank's 510 but I would advise against using a mid with hybrid pin instead of a normal 510 cap.

    Every article you see involves a mech in hybrid and a clearomizer

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
     

    tjeco

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    Im looking at a few sorted mechs and i have a protank 3 with .8 ohm coils. Do ohms matter on a mech? I know a regulated box only is stable through certain ohms. Is this the same on a mechanical?

    Of course, ohms resistance matters more on a mech.
     

    Thunderagevapekid

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    Aug 17, 2015
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    Everyone has the battery covered on this thread so I won't repeat

    What mood are you thinking of getting?
    I don't know about the protank's 510 but I would advise against using a mid with hybrid pin instead of a normal 510 cap.

    Every article you see involves a mech in hybrid and a clearomizer

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    A nemesis. I had one with a protank 2 for awhile and liked it. But had to return because battery was faulty
     

    Thunderagevapekid

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    Aug 17, 2015
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    @Thunderagevapekid

    I'm not familiar with the Protank 3, but just FYI, a fresh battery on a coil @.8 ohms is going to produce a little over 20 watts of heat. Thats a bit on the hot side. By the time it drains down to nominal (3.7v) you'll still be at 17 watts and at 3.2v (time to recharge) at 13 watts. Going to be a hot vape. If you can get coils in the 1.5ohm range, you might find that more comfortable and less likely to burn your juice. You can check the numbers here:

    Ohm's law | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
    Hey thanks man :) i can get them .8 1.2 1.5 1.8 and 2.0 ohms. Which do you suggest?
     

    Thunderagevapekid

    Full Member
    Aug 17, 2015
    34
    2
    36
    Everyone has the battery covered on this thread so I won't repeat

    What mood are you thinking of getting?
    I don't know about the protank's 510 but I would advise against using a mid with hybrid pin instead of a normal 510 cap.

    Every article you see involves a mech in hybrid and a clearomizer

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
    Yeah i saw this before when i was going to get a smpl. Im not gonna get a hybrib top cap ever lol
     
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