Get a lab transformer lol 240v to 5v converter, never explodes unless you're real lucky.....
Does ohm resistance matter on a mech?
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Hey thanks mani can get them .8 1.2 1.5 1.8 and 2.0 ohms. Which do you suggest?
Well, with a Nemi you're rockin old school. If you use those LG HE4's, you're rockin old school with a MUCH wider margin of safety than we ever had. In Old School, 1.5 ohms was considered LR (Low Resistance=hotter vape=more vapor), 1.8 is what I consider MR (medium), and 2.0 to 2.3 is SR (standard, but these days, you're DEFINITELY a tootle puffer at 2.0+).
You said you want "clouds" which suggests to me not only 1.5, but that you need a different tank. On a pure mech with THOSE batteries, you can get away with a Uwell Crown with the .5 ohm production coil. You'll get "Clouds Bro". But toss out or give away the .25 ohm and Ni200 coils that come with it, because you CANNOT run those on a mech. You will have the shiznit Yodaddy setup of your present life. WHEN you get around to it experience wise, they sell a rebuild-able atomizer for it (actually two, a single and a dual) and you can save more money by rebuilding your own coils and wicks. But you got a little WaxOn-WaxOff homework to do first.
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Here ya go my friend, all you need (except a good battery charger but you said you already bought a nemi once, so I assume you have one)
At $64 bucks, you've got a gold plated Nemi clone (better conductivity, + more chix), 2 very good batts, a great cloud making tank, and 4 extra coils. But you'll need to wait a few weeks for it to arrive. Or you can save $4, and skip the gold plating.
FastTech - Gadgets and Electronics
At $64 bucks, you've got a gold plated Nemi clone (better conductivity, + more chix), 2 very good batts, a great cloud making tank, and 4 extra coils. But you'll need to wait a few weeks for it to arrive. Or you can save $4, and skip the gold plating.
FastTech - Gadgets and Electronics
with that battery .8 should be plenty safe playing with resistance is fun and can get you different productions of flavor and vapor
Ohms are super critical on a mech.
Jim G my friend with the Kayfun with dome top built too low on his Smpl and the battery got super hot and vented teaching him to watch his ohms. I'm glad the battery did not start a fire.
Regulated devices. If the ohms is too high or low it will detect and fail to Fire instead of burning up a $50+ mod.
Mechanical Devices are a great choice, but should only be used if you know the precautions of the set up. Batteries and cleanliness of the device are the biggest performance factor when dealing with a mechanical. Resistances should be known before using the device and you have to be confident in that you know you won't have any shorting issues or jumping resistance.
That being said, I would not advise you start on a mechanical (hybrid style cap or not) with a clearo taking replacement coils units. If you did not check the resistance of the coil before firing and you have a shorted coil you're going to have issues when you give it voltage. If the replacement coil gives out and shorts you'll have issues as well, and this can happen from time to time with any pre built coil. You'll be much more at ease with a regulated device, it just makes more sense when you're using a tank with replacement units. The device can detect your resistance, detect shorts, and won't fire something if there's an issue.
That being said, I would not advise you start on a mechanical (hybrid style cap or not) with a clearo taking replacement coils units. If you did not check the resistance of the coil before firing and you have a shorted coil you're going to have issues when you give it voltage. If the replacement coil gives out and shorts you'll have issues as well, and this can happen from time to time with any pre built coil. You'll be much more at ease with a regulated device, it just makes more sense when you're using a tank with replacement units. The device can detect your resistance, detect shorts, and won't fire something if there's an issue.
I was looking at this and i asked what battery ot came with and he said an aw imr 2000mah. Yay or nay?Here ya go my friend, all you need (except a good battery charger but you said you already bought a nemi once, so I assume you have one)
At $64 bucks, you've got a gold plated Nemi clone (better conductivity, + more chix), 2 very good batts, a great cloud making tank, and 4 extra coils. But you'll need to wait a few weeks for it to arrive. Or you can save $4, and skip the gold plating.
FastTech - Gadgets and Electronics
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Here ya go my friend, all you need (except a good battery charger but you said you already bought a nemi once, so I assume you have one)
At $64 bucks, you've got a gold plated Nemi clone (better conductivity, + more chix), 2 very good batts, a great cloud making tank, and 4 extra coils. But you'll need to wait a few weeks for it to arrive. Or you can save $4, and skip the gold plating.
FastTech - Gadgets and Electronics
This is what ive found. Im thinking this is what im going to get if you guys give the go ahead with the battery and the mod and the tank.Here ya go my friend, all you need (except a good battery charger but you said you already bought a nemi once, so I assume you have one)
At $64 bucks, you've got a gold plated Nemi clone (better conductivity, + more chix), 2 very good batts, a great cloud making tank, and 4 extra coils. But you'll need to wait a few weeks for it to arrive. Or you can save $4, and skip the gold plating.
FastTech - Gadgets and Electronics
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We need to know which battery it is. Without that information we can't say if it's any good.
I can't emphasize how strongly you should just buy a known good performing battery. It costs practically nothing, maybe only 20% of what you're spending on the mod and tank. You'll use it every day for at least a year, less than 20-cents a day.
Thats the only info he gave meWe need to know which battery it is. Without that information we can't say if it's any good.
I can't emphasize how strongly you should just buy a known good performing battery. It costs practically nothing, maybe only 20% of what you're spending on the mod and tank. You'll use it every day for at least a year, less than 20-cents a day.
Thats the only info he gave me
Can't say if the battery is any good then.
Get VTC4's and you're covered for anything. You might be able to use 25R's or LG HG2's depending on your lowest coil resistance or highst wattage.
With a .8 coil you should be ok with a decent battery. You are going to have a hard time getting a good vape on a mech if you don't build your coils. Building them is about the only way you can adjust the vape on a mech.
Please don't buy batteries on eBay. I don't care if it says "trusted seller" -- that means the seller has done X amount of business on eBay and then paid eBay for the label. If I've sold 500 t-shirts there, for example, that doesn't mean I know what I'm doing on batteries. There could be anything under that wrapper. Illumn.com is your new best friend. Just as cheap, and they're both real & new.
Now -- yes. To answer your question. Ohms matter, especially on mechs. If, that is, your face & hands matter
Now -- yes. To answer your question. Ohms matter, especially on mechs. If, that is, your face & hands matter
Please don't buy batteries on eBay. I don't care if it says "trusted seller" -- that means the seller has done X amount of business on eBay and then paid eBay for the label. If I've sold 500 t-shirts there, for example, that doesn't mean I know what I'm doing on batteries. There could be anything under that wrapper. Illumn.com is your new best friend. Just as cheap, and they're both real & new.
Now -- yes. To answer your question. Ohms matter, especially on mechs. If, that is, your face & hands matter
I agree 100 %. Ohms DOES MATTER on a mech. Personally I don't care for mechs.
When you Fire the mech you get the full force of the battery. Sometimes if is good. On a sub ohm tsnk or a super low ohm you can burn your wick in a heartbeat especially the OCC heads in the Kanger Subtank. Series. Some of those could only deal with 30-35 watts
The AR mod (authentic) is garbage, the clone is ultra garbage. Really shoddy design, lot of people report hot button issues and misfires.
i would advise against the idea of using a mech mod with premade protank coils.
Aside from the potential safety issues (something as simple as a slightly damaged battery wrapper can cause a short), it's likely not going to be a good vape.
With a mech, not only does the resistance matter, it also has to be correct for the wire gauge used. 0.8 with 32gauge is vastly different from 0.8 with 24 gauge.
In short, without rebuilding you own coils and figuring out what resistance you need for the wire you are using, you are setting yourself up for vale that is either too hot or will take ages to heat up.
Then there is the battery sag. You will need to carry more spare batteries, because as the voltage under load drops, your vape will diminish just about at the volt level where your battery happens to hold the most of its charge (@3.6v). Many regulated mods compensate for this, so you will get a lot more vape time per battery.
There are plenty of reasonably priced regulated mods out there that will do a great job as a daily driver for a protank that cost barely more than the mech you mentioned.
The iStick line comes to mind as well as the new evic vt mini.
If you are concerned about getting the smoothest vape possible, look for devices that have a smooth flat signal as opposed to pulse modulation (many people don't notice a difference, but I happen to do). The evic vt mini (can be gotten without the tank) should fit that bill if memory serves me correctly. It's a high powered device for a single 18650 so make sure you get the right batteries and don't skimp if you are pushing for the higher end of its power spectrum.
Aside from the potential safety issues (something as simple as a slightly damaged battery wrapper can cause a short), it's likely not going to be a good vape.
With a mech, not only does the resistance matter, it also has to be correct for the wire gauge used. 0.8 with 32gauge is vastly different from 0.8 with 24 gauge.
In short, without rebuilding you own coils and figuring out what resistance you need for the wire you are using, you are setting yourself up for vale that is either too hot or will take ages to heat up.
Then there is the battery sag. You will need to carry more spare batteries, because as the voltage under load drops, your vape will diminish just about at the volt level where your battery happens to hold the most of its charge (@3.6v). Many regulated mods compensate for this, so you will get a lot more vape time per battery.
There are plenty of reasonably priced regulated mods out there that will do a great job as a daily driver for a protank that cost barely more than the mech you mentioned.
The iStick line comes to mind as well as the new evic vt mini.
If you are concerned about getting the smoothest vape possible, look for devices that have a smooth flat signal as opposed to pulse modulation (many people don't notice a difference, but I happen to do). The evic vt mini (can be gotten without the tank) should fit that bill if memory serves me correctly. It's a high powered device for a single 18650 so make sure you get the right batteries and don't skimp if you are pushing for the higher end of its power spectrum.
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