Does the kind of clearomizer you use make any difference?
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There seems to be a lot of confusion here...
Is it the atty? The tank? The carto? The battery?
There are 4 important things. Wick, coil, power and air. All need to be balanced to make the most of your Vape. Sure, the evods are nice tanks. The Kanger heads (usually) perform pretty well.
Air flow. Most of the tanks are vacuum based. To little airflow and you are getting dry hits, too much and you are gurgling.
Wick. You need a solid wicking material that will pull juice to the coil. Depending on the tank, the wick could be to thin causing flooding, or to thick so it cant keep up with the coil. The big difference between top and bottom coils are the wicks and the vacuum. It is my understanding that the vacuum is less important on a top coil, but you need to tilt and twist for efficient wicking when the tank gets low. Cotton doesn't wick as well as silica in the terms of actually pulling the juice to the coil (like burning a candle pulls the melted was to the flame), cotton relies more on the vacuum.
Tanks are more about airflow for bcc and wick to liquid exposure in top coil than anything else as far as functionality goes.
The coil needs to be able to keep up with the juice for the wick and airflow. It does this with power. Burning hotter or cooler...
Power is a hole lot of math. Not only watts/volts and ohms, but also amperage, output style (pulse width modulation), and a whole bunch of other things I don't quite understand.
Egos are designed to be a cheap Vape battery. Small, convenient, low budget, low maintenance, and low price! They do their job, and do it much better than a cigalike for a similar price imo. With that ease and low cost comes limitations. Lower amps, lower top power output, lower ability to step down the voltage.
That being said, protanks and such are built to do well on these batteries. Some do better than others of course, but imo you can't go wrong with a 1.8 coil in an evod on a 3.5v regulated, or vv, ego.
Sure, it may perform better on a apv (my mpt2s definitely do with the microcoils I put in them!), but I don't think most people but a mod to put a protank on... There is so much more to be had with rdas, rtas, and such...
Please feel free to correct me on any of this, I've picked up most of it in the last few months getting into rebuilding. The wicking and vacuum stuff I picked up this week after a few hard lessons with the fogger v3... I think I've got it down now though!
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Is it the atty? The tank? The carto? The battery?
There are 4 important things. Wick, coil, power and air. All need to be balanced to make the most of your Vape. Sure, the evods are nice tanks. The Kanger heads (usually) perform pretty well.
Air flow. Most of the tanks are vacuum based. To little airflow and you are getting dry hits, too much and you are gurgling.
Wick. You need a solid wicking material that will pull juice to the coil. Depending on the tank, the wick could be to thin causing flooding, or to thick so it cant keep up with the coil. The big difference between top and bottom coils are the wicks and the vacuum. It is my understanding that the vacuum is less important on a top coil, but you need to tilt and twist for efficient wicking when the tank gets low. Cotton doesn't wick as well as silica in the terms of actually pulling the juice to the coil (like burning a candle pulls the melted was to the flame), cotton relies more on the vacuum.
Tanks are more about airflow for bcc and wick to liquid exposure in top coil than anything else as far as functionality goes.
The coil needs to be able to keep up with the juice for the wick and airflow. It does this with power. Burning hotter or cooler...
Power is a hole lot of math. Not only watts/volts and ohms, but also amperage, output style (pulse width modulation), and a whole bunch of other things I don't quite understand.
Egos are designed to be a cheap Vape battery. Small, convenient, low budget, low maintenance, and low price! They do their job, and do it much better than a cigalike for a similar price imo. With that ease and low cost comes limitations. Lower amps, lower top power output, lower ability to step down the voltage.
That being said, protanks and such are built to do well on these batteries. Some do better than others of course, but imo you can't go wrong with a 1.8 coil in an evod on a 3.5v regulated, or vv, ego.
Sure, it may perform better on a apv (my mpt2s definitely do with the microcoils I put in them!), but I don't think most people but a mod to put a protank on... There is so much more to be had with rdas, rtas, and such...
Please feel free to correct me on any of this, I've picked up most of it in the last few months getting into rebuilding. The wicking and vacuum stuff I picked up this week after a few hard lessons with the fogger v3... I think I've got it down now though!
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
^ Good post, but I disagree with this part:
It also tastes better.
I've rebuilt heads for my Aerotank and PT2 mini using both silica and cotton. I've also used both in my Squape. I find cotton to wick better than silica and I think it's less sensitive to the amount of vacuum as well. I've got a bag full different silica, twisted rope as well as braided Ekowool, and cotton just plain works better, at least for me.
It also tastes better.
I agree, in bcc. I have no experience with top coil and cotton, but from everything I've read and seen in reviews it doesn't wick well.. Leading me to believe it's dependant on the vacuum, or at least gravity. Not to say it won't wick UP but it doesn't wick up as well as silica or other options. Again, I could be wrong on that, but that's why I came to that conclusion =)
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I use cotton in my pt micro coils, kfl+ clone, fogger and rda, works like a dream in those, with more dense flavor!
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Either one can be made to work. I think I've got 30 in mine right now, and something like 8 or 9 wraps on a 1/16" bit.
I've tried everything from cartos, to atomizers, RBAs, clearos, carto tanks, etc. I personally don't like rebuilding as it is very finicky to me and I prefer to just plug and vape. I have the materials and I have messed with it from time to time, but I guess I'm just not that into it. I usually drip at home using some good atomizers and use clearos when I'm on the go. I think the iClear 16s are actually pretty good clearos, but not the best for high VG juices. Other than the Aero tank that I got recently, I don't really like most bottom coil tanks. I'm still searching for the perfect clearo myself. Mostly something that can provide flavor as good as dripping. I don't mess with mech mods because I am worried about battery and shorting issues and like the simplicity of charging Ego or iTaste VV3 style batteries. Sub-ohm vaping and making complicated coils is just too much for me considering I'm a light vaper. Plus, for some reason, when I tried vaping out of cotton wick, it made my throat feel sore the next day. I tried rebuilding a few times and try different things... ehh.. it just isn't my thing I guess. To each their own.
I concur! Love my evod. Gonna get a vv battery tho
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Somebody on the forum, sorry can't remember who, recommended these bargain clearomizers to me, and I ordered 4 of them. I've been very happy with them so far. Since it seems that the expensive ones sometimes malfunction, I decided to try these out, and they seem to be doing very well.
DV BCC Clearomizer
Madvapes offers something very similar. They call them RBC clearomizers. About a buck more but they have a metal insert piece at the bottom of the plastic tank which I like because you then have the metal base screwing into the metal insert instead of the cheap plastic of the tank itself. Made by Smok (used to call themselves Smok Tech but probably got tired of being confused with the vendor SmokTek) but also take the Kanger single coil replacements if you don't want to use the Smok ones.
Taste wise and performance wise very similar to the Kanger ProTank 2 mini although it's obvious why one is $4.50 and the other is $20 if you own both.
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Taste wise and performance wise very similar to the Kanger ProTank 2 mini although it's obvious why one is $4.50 and the other is $20 if you own both.
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I use 28ga kanthal for my rebuilds. For pt heads it's nice because they take fewer wraps. I use 5/64 drill bit.
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Absolutely the clearo / tank system makes big difference.
As for wickless clearos there are not any really.
There are top coil clearos which have the coil up top, and they have long wicks hanging downward.
There are bottom coil clearos which have the coil at the bottom, and do not need long wicks; the wicks are very short; gravity leads the liquid to the wick already, so long wick unnecessary.
There are the carto type; which like having a bottom coil with a couple holes it it for liquid to get to the coil and a big fat wick stuffed inside.
The v-nano is a neat little cigalike tank, which is kinda like a carto-clearo-tank all in one.
And of course there are the rebuildables; top coil 'genesis' type, and bottom coil 'kayfun' type.
The genesis types usually use steel mesh for a wick, and the steel either adds its own flavor or the hot steel wick tends to contribute to a zestier fogging. Of course there's potential electrical problems wrapping a coil on a steel wick.
the miniprotank is like a glass version of the evod.
the evod does have the distinction of an outer metal casing; wish they'd of put that on the miniprotank; would be more usefull to protect the glass than to protect plastic.
and by the way; if you get a miniprotank, you can improve the protank by using the base from the mini on it instead; you'll just need to add an extra inverted silicone cap on top the atomizer to steal the space above it
- in a bottom coil system, vacuum plays the role of keeping the liquid from flooding the coil.
- gurgling is caused by liquid leaking into the center tube.
- I got a vamo and a zmax, and i use my protanks on em; all that matters is they give me VW, so I don't be doing math when I should be vaping (and sipping coffee).
Also the wick and coil are a factor in bcc. Wick to keep from pulling too much liquid to the coil. Even with the vacuum, it will leak all over or dry hit without a proper wick. With insufficient coil for the battery settings, the coil may not heat to the target temp for vaporizing the liquid, which can lead to flooding, or dry burnt hits.
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