Drilling out a PT 2

[HDMontana]

Was wondering if anyone has drilled out the 2 holes in the stem a little bigger to get an airier draw. To prevent tank wobble, I have to tighten the PT 2 down all the way in my airflow controller mounted on my Vamo V5. This really shuts down how much air is coming through, even though the airflow controller is still opened slightly.

HD.

 

[omyeyes]

Was wondering if anyone has drilled out the 2 holes in the stem a little bigger to get an airier draw. To prevent tank wobble, I have to tighten the PT 2 down all the way in my airflow controller mounted on my Vamo V5. This really shuts down how much air is coming through, even though the airflow controller is still opened slightly.

HD.

I don't know what to tell you. I have 2 mini protanks and I hate them. Nothing tastes good in them. I took them to the local vape store and had them drilled a tiny bit bigger for the air flow and now I hate them even more. Shame 'cuz I loaded up on replacement coils.
Someone should be along shortly to help you out.

 

[cvedrick]

first make sure the gasket around the electrode on your coil head has not mushroomed and yes I have drilled them out or more truly, open=ed them with a small dremel. Some folks also open the slots in the head to allow larger diameter wicks.

 

[HDMontana]

Thanks for the responses. I had checked the gasket down in the bottom and it seems fine. I get a decent draw if I unscrew 1 turn but then the tank wobbles. Screwed all the way in, the tank is secure and I can still vape but I am not getting as much airflow as I would like and am getting a little flooding which I think is from drawing to hard on it. I have a 510 to 510 connector I could use in place of the airflow controller, but it would not look as good. Really want to protect the 510 threads on the Vamo.

HD.

 

[HDMontana]

Went ahead and drilled the air holes slightly bigger this morning. 100% improvement. Draw is perfect for me now and haven't had any gurgling yet.

HD.

 

[cvedrick]

Went ahead and drilled the air holes slightly bigger this morning. 100% improvement. Draw is perfect for me now and haven't had any gurgling yet.

HD.

The protanks used to have slightly larger holes but it appears complaints of "airy draw" caused kangertech to reduce the size.

Personally I never had that problem, but I also used the lowest possible resistance coils, made my own or used a VV/VW device to make up the difference. In my mind if you are not getting much juice and restrict the airflow to compensate you are defeating the purpose which is to get enough!

 

[DreamWithin]

Moved to Clearomizer forum

 

[LazyBulldogge]

I've drilled up the air holes in my PT2 bases, with a 1.5 mm drill, actually making the air holes a bit bigger, than they are on the PT1.
I don't know how, but the draw just seemed a bit tighter on the PT2, compared to the PT1, with the air holes in the same diameter.
Could be because, that the "chimney"/air tube in the tank, is narrowed in at the top on the PT2 or something.
Draw is now perfect (for my liking/tastebuds).
Just be ever so careful and drill at the lowest possible setting, there's not much metal in that base

 

[cvedrick]

I've drilled up the air holes in my PT2 bases, with a 1.5 mm drill, actually making the air holes a bit bigger, than they are on the PT1.
I don't know how, but the draw just seemed a bit tighter on the PT2, compared to the PT1, with the air holes in the same diameter.
Could be because, that the "chimney"/air tube in the tank, is narrowed in at the top on the PT2 or something.
Draw is now perfect (for my liking/tastebuds).
Just be ever so careful and drill at the lowest possible setting, there's not much metal in that base

They recuced the hole size, I have both older 1s and 2s and there is a definate difference in the air hole diameter.

 

[LazyBulldogge]

I know that the stock air hole diameters are different, what I meant was, even after drilling up the PT2 air holes to the same diameter as the PT1, the draw was tighter. And that's where I figured, that maybe it could have something to do with the chimney diameter.

 

[Gonzi]

Biggest problem with these is that when you screw them tight on a mod, it pushes the positive pin on the bottom of the head up, squishing the grommet insulator between the head base and the pin, causing a mushroom that seals agains the walls of the protank base. What I've done to help solve this, other that drilling that tiny hole, is install the head on the base, torque it down on the mod to mushroom the grommet, remove from mod and take the head off, and then, with a sharp nail clipper, trimm some of the grommet that mushroom out on 1 or two sides of the pin. After doing this, make sure that you didn't disturb the wire leads that are being held in place by the grommet and the pin, and you should be good to go.

I hope you understand what I'm saying here.

 

[Dampmaskin]

LazyBulldogge: I figure you've got it figured right.

Gonzi: Yes, that would probably work. I did a more permanent fix on mine though. Here is a post where I describe how I fixed it.

 

[Gonzi]

LazyBulldogge: I figure you've got it figured right.

Gonzi: Yes, that would probably work. I did a more permanent fix on mine though. Here is a post where I describe how I fixed it.

I never thought about just grinding a channel to the air hole like you did, smart. I didn't want to mess with the base since they are so notorious for snapping, and removing material will weaken them further, but doing it just on 2 sides shouldn't affect the integrity of them too much.

I quit using protanks forever, but decided to buy an aero base, since now I'm back to rebuilding these heads, since I just got my wife into Evods. The aero base solves all of these problems + gives you airflow control, which I just run all the way open by the way. Now I'm back to using my protank 2 with aero base on my new VaporShark DNA30. Good performance and airflow, and since I build them with custom grommets and 30gauge micro coils with cotton, I can crank them up to 10-15 watts no problem and eliminate any loss of flavor.

 

[LazyBulldogge]

Sorry for going a bit off-topic, I'll keep it to this one post...

@Gonzi: What device are you using the Aerotank bases on? 'Cause I bought a couple of them, to use with my PT2's on my ProVaris, but if I tighten the coil all the way down in the base, the center of the base sticks out like 1 mm, causing quite a big gap between Protank and ProVari - something that makes my eyes bleed.
Sure, I could fit it less tight in the base, but I just know that's an accident waiting to happen if I do so.
Just wondering if you're seeing gaps too, since I'm getting no response in the thread I originally made about the issue.

 

[Gonzi]

Sorry for going a bit off-topic, I'll keep it to this one post...

@Gonzi: What device are you using the Aerotank bases on? 'Cause I bought a couple of them, to use with my PT2's on my ProVaris, but if I tighten the coil all the way down in the base, the center of the base sticks out like 1 mm, causing quite a big gap between Protank and ProVari - something that makes my eyes bleed.
Sure, I could fit it less tight in the base, but I just know that's an accident waiting to happen if I do so.
Just wondering if you're seeing gaps too, since I'm getting no response in the thread I originally made about the issue.

I mainly use it on my VaporShark DNA30, but I've used in on my Provari Mini flush mounted as well

 

[LazyBulldogge]

Alright, well, thank you for your reply
Tinkered a bit more with them, and the gap is smaller when using coils with the crappy, suffocating silicone gaskets, as they can be compressed more. But still quite a gap. Oh well, the bases will just sit in my "unused" compartment of my e-cig drawer. Luckily the PT2 bases are working wonderfully after drilling up the air holes