Where did you buy yours?
Thanks
I got mine from MVS in November during its "second initial launch". Funny name lol. I really really should've bought two at $26 each!! My stainless steel finish is degrading at one spot and it'll probably end up like my DB160 and fully peel up shortly. This is my major issue now, because it's not under warranty anymore...
Oh, and if you buy from MVS, their CS is quite good. Test if your device reads battery level correctly upon receipt. If not, return or replace it right away!
I just scanned this whole thread. I see a post where you said you ran yours down to 0 bars on the battery indicator and then tested the voltage on your battery and got 3.29 volts. Is that the results you are referring to? The output from the battery is a separate issue and only checking at one place isn't very thorough. What is it with 1 bar, 2 bars, 3 bars, and 4 bars. And what is your build and wattage?
But the more important issue is the voltage being sent from the chip to the atomizer at the various battery levels. Mine starts dropping once the battery level drops below 4 bars as if was a mech mod. I know this just from reading the voltage display on the device itself while firing it. Have you done that test and compared it from what you should be seeing via ohms law (V = sqrt(W * R))?
This whole time I was referring to the issue I first saw on Page 9 (default post counts per page), post #161. And I probably only noticed the first part, where the poster says the battery shows empty when there should be 75% left. This issue is by me called early cutoff and by others referred to as maybe funky battery gauge or something.
Anyway, my guess is that, when the device deems the battery as being empty, the voltage is probably deliberately limited to the degree that you will "feel" "oh the battery is low". If this is the case, it surely is an annoying nanny move (or it may well be the incapable chip). However, the root cause is still the faulty battery measurement. Had the chip accurately measure the battery level, the output voltage should be quite accurate. My guess is based on my observation, in which I can feel the "lack of power" if my battery shows as 0 bar, and know every time I need to change the battery. I also mentioned this "lack of output" issue in my previous post. Again, this could be the less capable chip or it could be programmed that way.
I'm currently at 2 bar, 0.8 ohm, 23.4W, voltage output is at 4.45V, when it should be 4.3ish by law. I pulled out my voltmeter just for you
and the voltage is 3.71V. So I can pretty much conclude that I have a normally functional device here.
I'll watch closely as this battery runs low, and see if part of my theory above is right, i.e. when the battery is deemed to be nearly empty by the chip, the output voltage is limited for whatever the reason there may be. But in the end, I still believe you gotta have Kanger address the battery reading accuracy problem first by sending out a replacement at least...Then, just maybe, the output issue is gone.
