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Dripbox 2 is here

Discussion in 'Liquid Feed APV Discussion' started by hazozita, Aug 3, 2016.

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  1. DancingHeretik

    DancingHeretik Dancing in the Chaos Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 20, 2011
    San Antonio, TX
    Oh, well. I had been keeping a tab open to a DB2 that I planned on getting once I got paid. I got paid today. But, y'all are making it sound pretty bad.

    I really want a halfway decent regulated squonker!

    I shouldn't complain. I do have REOs. I just don't always build my coils to just the right resistance. Maybe I should work on my building skills instead.
     
  2. kbriggs

    kbriggs Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Jul 24, 2014
    Houston, Texas
    I only bought the DB2 to hold me over until GeekVape released their GBox S100 (a 100 watt, dual battery regulated squonker). Supposedly those finally starting shipping to distributors this week (according to an email they sent me) so they should show up in online stores soon. The only Youtube review I've seen so far is in Russian so I have no idea how well it works.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  3. business2091

    business2091 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 17, 2013
    KU
    I wouldn't use forum for technical support, or a warranty claim to be exact.

    I had followed this page here (https://www.kangertechus.com/warranty) for my two previous claims, and they got back to me within 48 hours for both times.

    The warranty is only for 30 days so I'd suggest you to not waste your time on forum waiting for replies. If you are getting something else, have Kanger replace you a properly working one and sell it to compensate your future purchase.

    The early cutoff issue might be widespread in newer batches, just my guess. Mine doesn't have the issue and it was purchased quite a bit "earlier" than these issue reports emerged in this thread.
     
  4. business2091

    business2091 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 17, 2013
    KU
    Damit, I need to quit checking on the forum lol. When you guys mention GBox S100 I did a quick search and felt fortunate that it was not something I'm interested in (too big). But then I searched HCigar, and yep, I'm a fan of the look and now considering to waste just another piece of unnecessary spending in vaporware. This is not good.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  5. kbriggs

    kbriggs Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Jul 24, 2014
    Houston, Texas
    There are no properly working ones. It's either a design flaw or firmware bug.

    Are you sure? Have you actually observed the voltage readout when the battery indicator is at 3 or fewer bars as compared to the output at full charge?
     
  6. TheWestPole

    TheWestPole Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    May 28, 2015
    Los Angeles
    • Like Like x 3
  7. TheWestPole

    TheWestPole Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    May 28, 2015
    Los Angeles
    (deleted)
     
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  8. business2091

    business2091 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 17, 2013
    KU
    Of course I'm sure I posted my results in this very thread. Because I had read that people were having issue with early cutoff and worried that mine has the same issue, so I spent more time looking for my voltmeter than it took to verify what voltage my battery has at cutoff.
     
  9. puffon

    puffon Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 18, 2014
    Florida
    Where did you buy yours?
    Thanks
     
  10. kbriggs

    kbriggs Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Jul 24, 2014
    Houston, Texas
    I just scanned this whole thread. I see a post where you said you ran yours down to 0 bars on the battery indicator and then tested the voltage on your battery and got 3.29 volts. Is that the results you are referring to? The output from the battery is a separate issue and only checking at one place isn't very thorough. What is it with 1 bar, 2 bars, 3 bars, and 4 bars. And what is your build and wattage?

    But the more important issue is the voltage being sent from the chip to the atomizer at the various battery levels. Mine starts dropping once the battery level drops below 4 bars as if was a mech mod. I know this just from reading the voltage display on the device itself while firing it. Have you done that test and compared it from what you should be seeing via ohms law (V = sqrt(W * R))?
     
  11. business2091

    business2091 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 17, 2013
    KU
    I got mine from MVS in November during its "second initial launch". Funny name lol. I really really should've bought two at $26 each!! My stainless steel finish is degrading at one spot and it'll probably end up like my DB160 and fully peel up shortly. This is my major issue now, because it's not under warranty anymore...

    Oh, and if you buy from MVS, their CS is quite good. Test if your device reads battery level correctly upon receipt. If not, return or replace it right away!

    This whole time I was referring to the issue I first saw on Page 9 (default post counts per page), post #161. And I probably only noticed the first part, where the poster says the battery shows empty when there should be 75% left. This issue is by me called early cutoff and by others referred to as maybe funky battery gauge or something.

    Anyway, my guess is that, when the device deems the battery as being empty, the voltage is probably deliberately limited to the degree that you will "feel" "oh the battery is low". If this is the case, it surely is an annoying nanny move (or it may well be the incapable chip). However, the root cause is still the faulty battery measurement. Had the chip accurately measure the battery level, the output voltage should be quite accurate. My guess is based on my observation, in which I can feel the "lack of power" if my battery shows as 0 bar, and know every time I need to change the battery. I also mentioned this "lack of output" issue in my previous post. Again, this could be the less capable chip or it could be programmed that way.

    I'm currently at 2 bar, 0.8 ohm, 23.4W, voltage output is at 4.45V, when it should be 4.3ish by law. I pulled out my voltmeter just for you ;) and the voltage is 3.71V. So I can pretty much conclude that I have a normally functional device here.

    I'll watch closely as this battery runs low, and see if part of my theory above is right, i.e. when the battery is deemed to be nearly empty by the chip, the output voltage is limited for whatever the reason there may be. But in the end, I still believe you gotta have Kanger address the battery reading accuracy problem first by sending out a replacement at least...Then, just maybe, the output issue is gone.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. business2091

    business2091 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 17, 2013
    KU
    @kbriggsHave you tried to connect the mod to your computer and check its information/customize it through Kanger's software? If you want, can check the info against mine and see if there is any difference. Top left I suspect it to be chip information, bottom "1.0.0.0" I suspect to be firmware...

    Current devices: XW-Tec HID(xxxxxxx)
    Kanger, 80W TempCtrl KBOX-MBE
    SN:xxxxxxxxx
    1.0.0.0
     
  13. kbriggs

    kbriggs Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Jul 24, 2014
    Houston, Texas
    I got mine from MVS in mid January.

    I suspect your relatively light load is helping. I've been running a single 0.39 fused clapton in my Goon at 65 watts, which should draw 5.03 volts per Ohms Law. I conducted a little experiment last night where I recorded voltage readouts at every battery bar drop, and then removed the battery (Samsung 30Q) and checked its voltage on my Nitecore D4 charger and then but it back in. Unlike previous checks I did not get a reduced voltage output until the battery indicator got down to 1 bar:

    Bars / Battery charge / Mod output
    5 / 4.20 / 5.09
    4 / 4.10 / 5.13
    3 / 3.97 / 5.14
    2 / 3.88 / 5.14
    1 / 3.78 / 4.62
    0 / 3.57 / 3.80

    So it gave me good 90 minutes of heavy use until it hit 1 bar. Then it was noticeably weaker even though the battery still had 3.78 (above nominal) volts in it. I'm going to repeat this today but without removing the battery to see if it will hold the 5+ output all the way to 1 bar. I have a suspicion that the resetting somehow helped with that. I might also try a low wattage build and see how it performs.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  14. kbriggs

    kbriggs Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Jul 24, 2014
    Houston, Texas
    Yes, I did that right after I got it (and even put a custom graphic on my startup screen). My firmware is also 1.0.0.0. If you go to the Kangertech firmware page at Firmware you will see the zip file with the 1.4.0.6 number in it but that only refers to the version of the update software itself. They have not released any firmware upgrade yet.
     
  15. zoiDman

    zoiDman My -0^10 = Nothing at All* ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Apr 16, 2010
    So-Cal
    In a world where a Person can finds 1,000's and 1,000's of Internet Posts about what something Might, Should or Maybe is Doing, and the ensuing debates that Always follow, it's Nice to see someone Actually put Real World Obtained Numbers next to something.

    :thumb:
     
    • Like Like x 1
  16. sonicbomb

    sonicbomb Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Feb 17, 2015
    1187 Hundertwasser
    The mod is clearly borked, Kangertech should do a recall.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  17. business2091

    business2091 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 17, 2013
    KU
    Yes I overlooked that I'm normally light on watt settings.

    So I finally ran down the battery to 0 bar.

    Right now, at 23.4W 0.8ohm, output is still 4.45V, but I suspect the number is fake, because I can feel the lack of power due to less vapor production and less heat.

    I increased wattage to
    42W, output is 5.6V vs 5.8V ideal.
    48W, output is 5.3V vs 6.7V ideal.
    55.5W, output is 5.2 vs 6.2V ideal.

    So at least the mod fails to put out correct voltage when battery is low.

    Probably need to test on new battery soon to see the output at high wattage.

    When battery just turned into 0 bar, voltage was at 3.4V, and the cutoff is now at 3.23V.

    My software is also at 1406 from last Nov. I was trying to find out if Kanger sold your mod with newer firmware causing early cutoff. Looks like not. So it has something to do with hardware.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  18. business2091

    business2091 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 17, 2013
    KU
    Just did another recording, when battery just turned into 1 bar from 2:
    0.8ohm
    42W, output 5.9V vs 5.8V ideal.
    48W, output 6.3V vs 6.2V ideal.
    55.5W, output 6.6V vs 6.7V ideal.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  19. kbriggs

    kbriggs Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Jul 24, 2014
    Houston, Texas
    Last night I repeated the same experiment I had performed the night before (which gave me correct voltage out (5.1v) until I got down to 1 bar) except this time I did not remove the battery at every bar drop to check its voltage. This time I only got full voltage out down to 2 bars, where it dropped to 4.8 v (and was noticeable). Taking the battery out and immediately putting it back in did not change anything. The battery itself still had 3.85 v of charge in it at that point. So I'm getting inconsistent results with how soon I get reduced output compared to the number of bars on the battery indicator. Next I'm going to try a higher ohm/low wattage build and see how it performs.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  20. business2091

    business2091 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 17, 2013
    KU
    Looks like the mod is lacking performance for lower resistance as far as we can tell so far. But I'm more curious whether your battery gauge is accurate? Is the cutoff too early at say 3.7V?

    Sent from my Pixel
     
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