dripbox
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I'm running a .8 ohm build with Kanthal in mine, as you said, I raised the coils to the height of the grub screws and moved them out as far as I dared, that helped flavor a bunch! Cooling the build down helped flavor a lot IMO as well.
I did just the opposite. I put a velocity bottom feeder on it and built a .2 ohm coil. Great flavor, gets a little warm though.
When. I used the stock rda I liked it at .2 as well. Just raised the coils up to the air slots and it worked pretty good.
stand up and fight for your right to vape!
When. I used the stock rda I liked it at .2 as well. Just raised the coils up to the air slots and it worked pretty good.
stand up and fight for your right to vape!
I very much hope Kanger mainlines the design they have in subdrip.
By only needing to buy a single base with optional removeable decks and couple different barrels we could have a huge winner, good for coming regulations when all you would need is a couple of bases & barrels and handful of different decks.
Still going strong with my original Dripbox, don't really fancy its big bro beign way too big and with right build you don't really need that regulation.
By only needing to buy a single base with optional removeable decks and couple different barrels we could have a huge winner, good for coming regulations when all you would need is a couple of bases & barrels and handful of different decks.
Still going strong with my original Dripbox, don't really fancy its big bro beign way too big and with right build you don't really need that regulation.
Just got mine yesterday in the mail..didn't even look at the atty..slapped a 1 ohm build on my ChiNarda and I am really happy with the purchase 
Found another Dripbox benefit...
I tested it out as a "flight day squonker" and it did pretty well!
When I fly, my Reo Grand comes with me. I usually swap out my bottle for an empty one, cap the full one, remove the battery, and then reverse that process when I land. Which is a little much to deal with - especially when you have a 3-flight day like I did this week.
So I thought "the squonk is restricted on the dripbox - maybe it won't push all the juice up and out?". And I thought "my Rogue is NEARLY leak proof - you'd have to push literally like 6 mls in there, getting up to the air holes in the "roof" before it would leak".
So - I popped my Rogue on my Dripbox, and prior to flight all I did was pop the battery out and wrap the atty in paper towel.
Just for science, I went up to like 37,000 feet, then came back down, dialed down the air, and gave it a little stealth vape action in the airport bathroom. Worked fine! No puddles!
Went back up, came back down, tried it again. Went back up, came back down. Worked fine, a little juice on the paper towel, but most of the juice was still in the bottle, unlike previous attempts with tanks or with the Reo.
Now I've still got my Reo WITH me, I just didn't have to
a) go 12 hours without a vape
or
b) deal with the bottle-swapping in bathrooms and rental cars
I tested it out as a "flight day squonker" and it did pretty well!
When I fly, my Reo Grand comes with me. I usually swap out my bottle for an empty one, cap the full one, remove the battery, and then reverse that process when I land. Which is a little much to deal with - especially when you have a 3-flight day like I did this week.
So I thought "the squonk is restricted on the dripbox - maybe it won't push all the juice up and out?". And I thought "my Rogue is NEARLY leak proof - you'd have to push literally like 6 mls in there, getting up to the air holes in the "roof" before it would leak".
So - I popped my Rogue on my Dripbox, and prior to flight all I did was pop the battery out and wrap the atty in paper towel.
Just for science, I went up to like 37,000 feet, then came back down, dialed down the air, and gave it a little stealth vape action in the airport bathroom. Worked fine! No puddles!
Went back up, came back down, tried it again. Went back up, came back down. Worked fine, a little juice on the paper towel, but most of the juice was still in the bottle, unlike previous attempts with tanks or with the Reo.
Now I've still got my Reo WITH me, I just didn't have to
a) go 12 hours without a vape
or
b) deal with the bottle-swapping in bathrooms and rental cars
Has anyone tried Tobecos Velocity2 with this?
Mainly wondering if the 510-connector is long enough.
Mainly wondering if the 510-connector is long enough.
Yep. Very good. Actually it works great with every atty I used with it. So far I tried the velocity, the narda, the nipple, the Origen little, and the nuppin. They all worked great.
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While looking for Spare Bottles (Red would be Nice), I came across this...
Kanger DripBox WÜD Skin
It might be a complete waste of Money? Or Extremely Cool. Either way it is Kinda Trippy.
LOL
Kanger DripBox WÜD Skin
It might be a complete waste of Money? Or Extremely Cool. Either way it is Kinda Trippy.
LOL
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Heads up if your Dripbox quits working.......
Mine starting intermittently working a couple of weeks ago and stopped working all together but didn't have time to mess with it. Took a little time tonight and it would show 4.12V at the 510 connector without an atty but nothing at the atty terminals. First thought the atty had a problem but quickly ruled that out with an atty swap with a Peko. Pulled the boards out and probed with a voltmeter while firing and had 4.12V at the wires at the base of the 510 with the atty on. Connections looked fine so I was a little puzzled. Probed between black wire and atty case and voila there was the problem. Scraped off the sealant below the 510 and removed the 3 screws and pulled the 510. Nothing there that looked like it could fail. Looked everything over with a jewelers loop and noticed a very small spot of slight discoloration where one of the 3 screws thread into the upper case part that I recognized as arcing. Then it hit me, the negative flows through the 3 screws to the 510. Cleaned up the 3 screws and the threads in the top cap with some electronics cleaner I have and reinstalled. Works like a charm again. I can only assume that eliquid had seeped into the threads and caused the problem with the connection.
Mine starting intermittently working a couple of weeks ago and stopped working all together but didn't have time to mess with it. Took a little time tonight and it would show 4.12V at the 510 connector without an atty but nothing at the atty terminals. First thought the atty had a problem but quickly ruled that out with an atty swap with a Peko. Pulled the boards out and probed with a voltmeter while firing and had 4.12V at the wires at the base of the 510 with the atty on. Connections looked fine so I was a little puzzled. Probed between black wire and atty case and voila there was the problem. Scraped off the sealant below the 510 and removed the 3 screws and pulled the 510. Nothing there that looked like it could fail. Looked everything over with a jewelers loop and noticed a very small spot of slight discoloration where one of the 3 screws thread into the upper case part that I recognized as arcing. Then it hit me, the negative flows through the 3 screws to the 510. Cleaned up the 3 screws and the threads in the top cap with some electronics cleaner I have and reinstalled. Works like a charm again. I can only assume that eliquid had seeped into the threads and caused the problem with the connection.
Thanks for the Heads Up Alexander Mundy.
Mine has been working fine. But if I start to have any Problems, I will keep this post in Mind.
I finally got a Velocity V2 clone and popped it on the Dripbox. I did a simple 26ga kanthal built to 0.4 ohms, dialed in the airflow and it's vaping really nice. For the price, this is still a nice little beater mod. 
If you mean the 3 Silver Screws on the 510 Connector Plate and the 2 Black Screws at the Top on the Sides, those are actually Not Hex Screws. They are T6 Torx Screws.
Or at least Mine are on Mine.
Worked it out and have it working again. Time will tell. I do like the concept of the drip box for what it is.
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