Eastmall's Indulgence Review

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boz

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Apr 25, 2010
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My button sucks also, stopped working (mechanically). I put a drop of baby oil or you can use mineral oil in the button and it works better than when I got it (plastic crap).
OK, I opened the switch section and the switch is an absolute POS. It couldn't have been made cheaper if they tried. So, I worked out a great use for the switch body. From what I can see I'll be able to remove the electronics from my Buzz, drill the required holes in the switch body and install the Buzz electronics into the switch body. Then I can use 2 x 18350 1200mah batteries in the Indulgence body to power the Buzz electronics instead of the pissy 123 750mah in the skinnier Buzz body. I can install an heavy duty switch in the Buzz body and use it as a 3.7V or 6V device. Double Win.
 
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breaktru

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Okay, here is my amperage results:

Battery tested 4.05volts before and after amp testing (18650 3.7v, 2400mah). Used a 2.0 ohm atty which calculates to 2.025amps on paper.

1.47amps with the battery out of the PV in series with the atty and amp meter.
1.25amps with battery in the tube, battery not compressed into the bottom spring.
1.37amps with battery in the tube, battery full compressed bottomed out to the base forcefully. (means spring is a piece of crap. copper spring would be better)
using magnet helps put more compression on spring.
1.17amps with switch connected and NO atty base.
1.17amps with everything put together, no loss with atty base.

The switch measured 0.4 ohms, which aided to the loss of amperage at 0.2amps
Unless the spring is full depressed, amperage loss is great at .22amps. Even depressed the loss was .1amps
Total amp loss was 0.3amps making my Indulgence V2 sub par to my eGo.

If I can replace the spring with a copper one and replace the switch, this thing may be worth keeping. Anyone have any ideas on switches that would fit this housing and how to take it out without destroying the plunger it is attached to?
 
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breaktru

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OK, I opened the switch section and the switch is an absolute POS. It couldn't have been made cheaper if they tried. So, I worked out a great use for the switch body. From what I can see I'll be able to remove the electronics from my Buzz, drill the required holes in the switch body and install the Buzz electronics into the switch body. This now gives me the ability to use the 18350 1200mah batteries with the Buzz instead of the pissy 123 750mah in the skinnier Buzz body. Then I can install an heavy duty switch in the Buzz and use it as a 3.7V or 6V device. Double Win.

So uneverno, what you are saying is you are using the Indulgence switch housing on your Buzz?
 

boz

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Apr 25, 2010
217
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Brisbane Australia
When you took apart the switch, how was the switch connected to the top atty base?
Very poorly. The switch has two legs on it, one leg just touches the little brass knob you see in the plastic base. The other leg touches a spring that then touches the brass knob on the top of the switch body. They are both just touch contacts, no solder, nothing. Very ordinary.
 

breaktru

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See uneverno, this is where most of the problem lies. Their advertisement of "The design is solder free and without wires" tell it all. Every contact point is a resistance point, adding to the total resistance. It's like using a 3 ohm atty on a 3.7v device. Not much vapor can be produced.
 

boz

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 25, 2010
217
7
70
Brisbane Australia
See uneverno, this is where most of the problem lies. Their advertisement of "The design is solder free and without wires" tell it all. Every contact point is a resistance point, adding to the total resistance. It's like using a 3 ohm atty on a 3.7v device. Not much vapor can be produced.
Yes, I was getting very poor vapor, however, I have overcome the problem and created a super vaping unit. See here for details:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/143351-inbuzzgence-megabuzz.html
 

CritterBuddy

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Dec 26, 2009
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Oklahoma City, OK
I've got a V2 Titanium with the same symptoms as you guys described. Fact is, even when the atomizer was dry the coil would only turn a dull red. I took the switch housing apart, checked the different caps, etc. and didn't really see anything wrong until I looked inside the battery tube. When they plated the tube it doesn't appear they went back and cleaned it. Not having any smallish dremel size tools, I stuffed the battery compartment 3/4 full of rough steel wool. Then I carefully pushed in a 3/8 drill bit running at high speed until it just caught the steel wool and gave it a twirl. After about 5 minutes and a few adjustments with the drill bit had the inside of the tube nice and shiny. Still doesn't hit as hard as my box mods but it sure does work better than it did and the coil will glow bright red now. Currently running a 2.5 ohm bridgeless atty but will probably still get a few LR 306s to try.
 
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