Easy stardust mod to fix tight draw:

[curlyballs]

Posted this in the re-wick thread too:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-how-re-wick-replace-coil-14.html#post5862871

Best mod I've found for these clearomizers is to drill 4 small holes into the base. Drill bit size that I use is 1/16.

Wish I could take a pic right now but my camera is screwed.

Anyhow, the holes are about 1.5mm below where the clear plastic starts. So, it's drilling through the metal band, then the plastic on the inside. Another way to describe it is just above the large threads of the EGO battery, when screwed on.

This completely eliminates any tight draw on a stardust. So far I've done this to 3 with the same result.

If you like the draw a bit tighter, try drilling 2 holes instead of 4.

This can be done without taking apart the stardust, in about 5 minutes!

I'll post a pic when I'm able.

 

[curlyballs]

Got the camera to work

http://i.imgur.com/Q2hZl.jpg

 

[HowlingBadger]

Excellent! My previous fix was just to mount it on a shorty 510 extender but this will work much better as it will still sit flush. Thanks!

 

[Hitmetwice]

Found 2 holes at 7/64ths were better than more holes with less
diameter(for me)

May want to empty the Stardust to allow for a thorough clean afterwards,
filings go everywhere! Pilot holes may help too.

Thanks mucho for the idea Curly.

Oh, and best to keep any filings outta the connector/adapter area
we don't want any shorts!

 

[thatron]

Thanks for the tip, I am definitely going to give this a try.

 

[thatron]

Well, easier said then done. The smallest bit I have is 1/8, and even with that I had no luck making the hole. I guess this is why I'm not a modder.

 

[Slim Batz]

What about increasing the depth of the slots with a dremel?

 

[curlyballs]

What happens is the large threads on the EGO "plug" the entire system since they aren't slotted themselves. This is why I decided to drill these holes.

So, I don't think increasing the slot depth would help much, but it's always worth a try.

Let us know if you try it out

 

[curlyballs]

thatron:

What I had to do was keep the drill VERY steady while laying it flatter to start the initial hole. If the bit is jumping all around then the hole won't start. Once started, I moved the drill vertical and drilled through.

 

[Hitmetwice]

A variable speed drill and a small (1/16th)
bit help too.

I found the same as you Curly...start around the horizontal slowly and gently
then raising to vertical works the trick.

Thanks again Curly for posting it here for us, it loosens the draw just enough to make
the vape that much more enjoyable, beautiful...

 

[thatron]

I managed to get a couple 1/8 holes in it, but I think only one was far enough up. I tried it on one that was on it's last legs (it was kind of a mess when I was done with it), and it didn't seem to make a difference. I'll have to get a smaller bit for next time.

 

[Hitmetwice]

I managed to get a couple 1/8 holes in it, but I think only one was far enough up. I tried it on one that was on it's last legs (it was kind of a mess when I was done with it), and it didn't seem to make a difference. I'll have to get a smaller bit for next time.

It really isn't a HUGE difference, but in a side by side comparison it is looser.
Different mods and adapters will no doubt change the results a little.
Noticed it different on my ego batts, compared to my Provari with the
ego adapter. Still better though!

 

[Bourbonman]

What happens is the large threads on the EGO "plug" the entire system since they aren't slotted themselves. This is why I decided to drill these holes.

So, I don't think increasing the slot depth would help much, but it's always worth a try.

Let us know if you try it out

Ahh, you guys gave me a great idea! I took my dremel with an engraving tip (the little round ball-shaped kind) and made a groove on the inside of the flange, from the "shoulder" up to the air flow notch, similar to where you drilled the holes. My draw loosened up considerably, so I went ahead and made another on the opposite side and now it draws the same as if it wasn't screwed on. I think it's just the plastic on the inside that snugs it up too much. Now I get great draws and no visual difference! I'll use it today at work, and try to post a picture tonight when I get home if it works well.

 

[Thompson]

What about increasing the depth of the slots with a dremel?

I was thinking this too. Only a file would be necessary for this.

 

[TxAnt]

and made a groove on the inside of the flange, from the "shoulder" up to the air flow notch
.. I'll use it today at work, and try to post a picture tonight when I get home if it works well.

Hope you have a chance to post a photo. I'm having a hard time visualizing what you've done.

 

[Marthag]

Thanks for the tips. Any ideas on how to fix the muted flavor?

 

[ChellyNelly]

Yeah, don't use a Stardust Muted flavour is quite common, it seems.

 

[Bourbonman]

Hope you have a chance to post a photo. I'm having a hard time visualizing what you've done.

I used it all day/night at work, no leaks or any bad side effects. Just a considerably easier draw. Take the Dremel tip, start at one of the notches on the end, and make a groove back until you hit the next thicker area. You will go through a layer of plastic in there, and then take a little metal off for good measure. It sounds more complicated than it is. It took me longer to change bits in the Dremel than to make the grooves. Obviously you will want to clean it out when done, a couple blasts of canned air worked well for me. Once it's on your battery, you can't see any difference. In the picture, I have the Dremel bit pointing right at the groove I made inside the Stardust.

 

[TxAnt]

Ahhh thanks for the photo. Now I can give it a try myself.

 

[Jake]

I think I will give this a try too. Thanks for the tip!