EHPro Bachelor RTA - single coil
- Thread starter Btsmokincat
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
go yo fastech get a heat sinkNano works on my Evic VTC Mini. This may be a dumb question, but for future reference, how do you get a 510 pin that doesn't have a screw head out?
I keep wanting to abandon these because I haven't been able to land more than one good one so far, but I like that one so much that I decided to send EHPro an email yesterday.
I just wanted to know if they are aware of the leaking issue and looking in to a solution perhaps. I send them a link to this thread too in case it's the first they hear about it.
I have no idea if they'll reply or even take it seriously but I had to try something out of love for my one flawless Nano <3
As it turns out the Serpent mini isn't for me by the way. The wicking is a little difficult to get right but once you do it performs very nicely. But it is tiny thus the vapor-path is really short and unfortunately I'm over-sensitive to heat in my mouth which simply makes it too hot for me to use for more then an occasional short hit or so..
I do have a Hurricane Junior clone on the way to try just because I liked the simplicity of the deck on that one.
I just wanted to know if they are aware of the leaking issue and looking in to a solution perhaps. I send them a link to this thread too in case it's the first they hear about it.
I have no idea if they'll reply or even take it seriously but I had to try something out of love for my one flawless Nano <3
As it turns out the Serpent mini isn't for me by the way. The wicking is a little difficult to get right but once you do it performs very nicely. But it is tiny thus the vapor-path is really short and unfortunately I'm over-sensitive to heat in my mouth which simply makes it too hot for me to use for more then an occasional short hit or so..
I do have a Hurricane Junior clone on the way to try just because I liked the simplicity of the deck on that one.
I'm having a performance issue with my Nano that I've just been too occupied to give any thought to.
The full size is performing fine with it's big honkin' 24g 316 single coil. Plenty of vapor.
But the Nano has a parallel (not twisted) 26g 316 and is under-producing.
A day or so ago, I did an overdue re-wicking hoping that would be the problem... no joy.
Before I get into it... should I consider raising or lowering the next coil for better vapor?
The full size is performing fine with it's big honkin' 24g 316 single coil. Plenty of vapor.
But the Nano has a parallel (not twisted) 26g 316 and is under-producing.
A day or so ago, I did an overdue re-wicking hoping that would be the problem... no joy.
Before I get into it... should I consider raising or lowering the next coil for better vapor?
Yeah... even my crappy wicking skillz (always too much) wouldn't account for this.
I hadn't done a parallel since last year, but don't recall having any difficulties with them then.
I even overstuffed the new 430 coil in the Serpent yesterday (got ...... when I under wicked it) and that thing is chuckin'.
Depends on where it sits now
I usually have them as low as possible in mine. Maybe one mm (at most!) clear from the deck.
my thoughts after a couple of weeks using the bachelor.
hex screw heads strip, not the threads but the head.
not as easy to drop in a coil as i would of thought, legs have to be a certain length, fairly bent straight down and parallel w/each other.
wicking a little tricky to get to ones own liking.
one leg was cut off by hex screw and the broken wire was a bugger to get out.
good vape but im now leaning to try the new limitless plus
hex screw heads strip, not the threads but the head.
not as easy to drop in a coil as i would of thought, legs have to be a certain length, fairly bent straight down and parallel w/each other.
wicking a little tricky to get to ones own liking.
one leg was cut off by hex screw and the broken wire was a bugger to get out.
good vape but im now leaning to try the new limitless plus
Uh, and you didn't even make it to the worst part for me, the weeping.. I guarantee all of them will weep, eventually. The o-ring has to push through threads, it's gonna get tore up. It works well and vapes good though. The legs were trickier than I was hoping at first, but I got it down and it's not a problem anymore.
I'm pulling the vertical coil I put in it, it's getting a hot leg or something, probably a screw coming loose. But the wick was so big there's no chamber head room left and it makes for a really wet vape.
I'm pulling the vertical coil I put in it, it's getting a hot leg or something, probably a screw coming loose. But the wick was so big there's no chamber head room left and it makes for a really wet vape.
Last edited:
Talking about the top of the chimney?
I saw a video on a vertical coil for the bachelor and was thinking of trying it. Sounds good.
-Bachelor Nano-
Well, I received some 15*13*1mm o-rings from FT.
SKU 2066603
$0.80 Rubber O-Ring Seals for E-Cigarette (20-Pack) 20-pack - 15*13*1.0mm (OD*ID*W) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Replaced and lubed with vg juice the two stock clear o-rings (14*12*1mm) on the deck/base threads with the above. No more leaking, even leaving JFC wide open and AF open. When I would take off the base there would be juice around the edge, indicating juice was going down the crack between the outer/inner AFC. [EDIT]Oh, and when I would adjust the AF, or take the tank off the mod, I would get juice from between the base and tank on my fingers. The stock o-rings are soft garbage. When I inserted the deck I felt the top o-ring fitting perfecting in the chamber and tightening down the base just 'felt right'. I thought, "this may actually work". Did!
Now I need to get 1mm Buna N sheets (or does anyone have a better suggestion?) to make flat seals for the top of the chamber. Not sure how I'm going to pull that off yet.
Well, I received some 15*13*1mm o-rings from FT.
SKU 2066603
$0.80 Rubber O-Ring Seals for E-Cigarette (20-Pack) 20-pack - 15*13*1.0mm (OD*ID*W) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Replaced and lubed with vg juice the two stock clear o-rings (14*12*1mm) on the deck/base threads with the above. No more leaking, even leaving JFC wide open and AF open. When I would take off the base there would be juice around the edge, indicating juice was going down the crack between the outer/inner AFC. [EDIT]Oh, and when I would adjust the AF, or take the tank off the mod, I would get juice from between the base and tank on my fingers. The stock o-rings are soft garbage. When I inserted the deck I felt the top o-ring fitting perfecting in the chamber and tightening down the base just 'felt right'. I thought, "this may actually work". Did!
Now I need to get 1mm Buna N sheets (or does anyone have a better suggestion?) to make flat seals for the top of the chamber. Not sure how I'm going to pull that off yet.
Last edited:
He means on the build deck/base.
The threads have a second ring above which has to be pushed through the threads of the lower tank before you tighten. One needs to take care... he's saying damage is inevitable.
Ah, thanks, yes, hence the need to upgrade the soft stock o-rings.
I just happen to have a cleaned but unused one here to examine.
That one that has to "push through" is damn thin, and damned close to level with the threading... thus the damage. Maybe if the base threading was a larger diameter it would allow a fatter o-ring above and it would still slip in through the body threads.
Yes. The new 15*13*1mm o-ring had more resistance going in than the stock ever did and should last longer too, since it's not so soft.
Oh, and I tried a 14*11*1.5mm on the bottom but couldn't screw the base down all the way, which would leave the flat seal at the top inoperative. It's 14mm too, and I thought about trying to put another 14*11*1.5mm o-ring up there, but didn't try, since it's not flat. Maybe another day.
so i should just pick up those that you linked or do i need other sizes as well? i think the one up in my chimney is fine.
It's the only one I have used (1.5mm too thick). I picked up several sizes, unsure which would work best. On FT someone said they measured the bottom o-ring to be 14*12*1mm. Knowing how much I had to stretch it to get it on and off, I went with 15OD so not to stretch and thin it out so much, hoping it would still be snug enough, yet maybe a little thicker? That was my thinking anyway.
I wish I knew I all the sizes. Especially the little one on the top of the chimney because I've already had to replace it. I think it may get abuse from turning the JFC, but I'm not sure. Stock was a little chewed up and thicker than the spares. The spare has worked fine and lasted longer than the stock. Looks like a basic 510 drip tip o-ring but I haven't compared. Things have been crazy and time limited.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
