EHPRO Kayfun Lite Plus- The Best $35 I've Spent Since I Started Vaping

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DeadbeatJeff

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This has to be the best clone kayfun I've thusfar seen. Certainly the best I've had.

Comes with three SS tank sections, the little clear plastic middle section, as well as a large clear section. Also comes with a handy screwdriver-keychain with flat and philips head, also replacement o-rings and screws.

Machining seems very strong, and TBH the only way It could be better is if it had pyrex instead of the plastic (but really don't kow how that would work with the threading, I suppose). Also it would be nice if it also came with replacement screws for the fill port and air-control (just came with extra screws for the atty itself).

All in all great, comes in a nice box, and just works flawlessly. 100x better than the BS Tobeco I picked up at a B&M a while back. Maybe now I can stop dripping-and-driving :D

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Xaviour

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Mine came in the mail today! It is my first kayfun and very happy so far. I was using an Igo w up till now and hope this will be a general Improvement. Put in a micro coil of the wire it came with, probably 28 ga. At 1.0 ohm. Organic cotton that just touches the deck. Air hole adjustment s few about 3/4 out. Vape is nice but seems a little dry. Any hint would be great. Its on an mvp2 run between 7and 9 watts.
 

DeadbeatJeff

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when running a mech I think an RDA like an IGO vs a Kayfun both hit great, just very differently

I've used kayfuns on my VV before and it worked well, but this 0.7 I have running on a mech (pictured above) is much better IMO

but that should have no effect on your wicking.

maybe your wick is too thick/tight; it should slide easily in the coil yet still be snug, and it shouldn;t be bunched up on the deck at all
 
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Kahuna Cowboy

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Mine came in the mail today! It is my first kayfun and very happy so far. I was using an Igo w up till now and hope this will be a general Improvement. Put in a micro coil of the wire it came with, probably 28 ga. At 1.0 ohm. Organic cotton that just touches the deck. Air hole adjustment s few about 3/4 out. Vape is nice but seems a little dry. Any hint would be great. Its on an mvp2 run between 7and 9 watts.

Make sure when you reassemble the bottom chimney and add lots of your liquid to the point the cotton is sopped. The cotton needs to be fully saturated, and excess you can easily blow out after the tank is assembled. Also make sure the cotton is not sitting on or in the juice channels, that can cause bad wicking, move the edges of the cotton to the deck.
 

DeadbeatJeff

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Make sure when you reassemble the bottom chimney and add lots of your liquid to the point the cotton is sopped. The cotton needs to be fully saturated, and excess you can easily blow out after the tank is assembled. Also make sure the cotton is not sitting on or in the juice channels, that can cause bad wicking, move the edges of the cotton to the deck.
I actually think it wicks best with the cotton right on the juice channels, just not bunched up; just enough to touch
 

illitirit

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if any of you guys are interested, I heavily modded my kayfun lite + v2. Its an authentic, but the ehpro is 1:1 with it, i even compared.

The stock kayfun lite draw is way too restricted for me even with the airflow screw all the way out. I drilled out all the holes including the centerpin hole and it made a huge difference. Im getting some crazy vapor from my kayfun now and im really happy with it.

I made an instruction and picture thread over here : Kayfun lite center post drilled to 5/64, HOLY CRAP what a difference.

I really recommend modding it if you want an open airy draw.
 

DeadbeatJeff

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if any of you guys are interested, I heavily modded my kayfun lite + v2. Its an authentic, but the ehpro is 1:1 with it, i even compared.

The stock kayfun lite draw is way too restricted for me even with the airflow screw all the way out. I drilled out all the holes including the centerpin hole and it made a huge difference. Im getting some crazy vapor from my kayfun now and im really happy with it.

I made an instruction and picture thread over here : Kayfun lite center post drilled to 5/64, HOLY CRAP what a difference.

I really recommend modding it if you want an open airy draw.

stupid Calivaperforum tried to force me to make an account after I viewed like 5 pages or something, months and months ago. I refuse to do so, in protest.

question though: after you drilled it out (which has crossed my mind), were you able to somehow maintain the variable airflow? I ask cause I'd really like my 'Fun to work for lung-hits and puffs, but given the choice I'd pick puffs cause my RDAs are already good rippers.
 

illitirit

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stupid Calivaperforum tried to force me to make an account after I viewed like 5 pages or something, months and months ago. I refuse to do so, in protest.

question though: after you drilled it out (which has crossed my mind), were you able to somehow maintain the variable airflow? I ask cause I'd really like my 'Fun to work for lung-hits and puffs, but given the choice I'd pick puffs cause my RDAs are already good rippers.


yes absolutely I still have the ability to control airflow via the AFC screw even after drilling centerpost and airhole. I can def take a long lung hit, butttttttttttttt its def not as open as a fully drilled out RDA. I would compare it more to a single hole 3/32 hole draw
 

Xaviour

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when running a mech I think an RDA like an IGO vs a Kayfun both hit great, just very differently

I've used kayfuns on my VV before and it worked well, but this 0.7 I have running on a mech (pictured above) is much better IMO

but that should have no effect on your wicking.

maybe your wick is too thick/tight; it should slide easily in the coil yet still be snug, and it shouldn;t be bunched up on the deck at all
When I mean dry guess I mean not as dense and wet like the the vapor off the igo. Cotton slide through nicely not bunching up and tails were cut so just sitting on the deck not in the way of the juice channels. On my first fill I could see the bubbles coming up after a hit. I changed to a difference juice same 50/50 and now is when I'm getting dryer hits and rarely see bubbles. Maybe something changed with the cotton when I refilled. The only difference is a had a twisted 28 ga coil in the igo and a single in this.
 

Xaviour

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Feb 17, 2014
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Make sure when you reassemble the bottom chimney and add lots of your liquid to the point the cotton is sopped. The cotton needs to be fully saturated, and excess you can easily blow out after the tank is assembled. Also make sure the cotton is not sitting on or in the juice channels, that can cause bad wicking, move the edges of the cotton to the deck.
I did saturate before first fill. Not so much that it ran outta the channel though. The second fill I did not take it apart just filled it. Will take it apart today and see what's going on. If I have time I'll twist
Up some 28 ga and see if it better resembles the igo.
 

DeadbeatJeff

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When I mean dry guess I mean not as dense and wet like the the vapor off the igo. Cotton slide through nicely not bunching up and tails were cut so just sitting on the deck not in the way of the juice channels. On my first fill I could see the bubbles coming up after a hit. I changed to a difference juice same 50/50 and now is when I'm getting dryer hits and rarely see bubbles. Maybe something changed with the cotton when I refilled. The only difference is a had a twisted 28 ga coil in the igo and a single in this.

what do you mean you "see bubbles"?
 

DeadbeatJeff

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yes absolutely I still have the ability to control airflow via the AFC screw even after drilling centerpost and airhole. I can def take a long lung hit, butttttttttttttt its def not as open as a fully drilled out RDA. I would compare it more to a single hole 3/32 hole draw

but if you drilled it out, how is the screw still working?
 
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