Eleaf GS Air Fan

[cathouse]

You're right cathouse. It ain't just a girl thang. "We've come a long way baby".............

I'm laughing so hard that my cats are lookin' at me funny wondering what's wrong!!!

I don't know ya well enough and don't do them anyway, but if there was a "brohug" smiley I'd tack it on about here ====>

 

[Bikenstein]

I'm laughing so hard that my cats are lookin' at me funny wondering what's wrong!!!

I don't know ya well enough and don't do them anyway, but if there was a "brohug" smiley I'd tack it on about here ====>

..............................

 

[LostVapeMonster]

Well this is odd - the same coil is on a new istick 20w and is reading 1.5 ohms and seems like has more of a burnt taste than when I have it on my older istick 20w, which reads it at 1.6 ohms. Battery dying on the older one maybe? They are both reading about the same battery level right now.
And - go!

 

[Bikenstein]

Well this is odd - the same coil is on a new istick 20w and is reading 1.5 ohms and seems like has more of a burnt taste than when I have it on my older iStick 20w, which reads it at 1.6 ohms. Battery dying on the older one maybe? They are both reading about the same battery level right now.
And - go!

.....................................

 

[tearose50]

Good to know! Keep us posted, e-pipeman.

Having said that, this would indicate a departure from FT standard practices, which might not be a good thing for those who want to be able to tell the originals from clones.

I ordered some "clone" kangers from FT--- the box looked identical to all other non-clone boxes as did the coils -- but the coils, well, they were horrible. So, the box is not the indicator.. I knew it was a gamble, but I guess I was in a gambling mood that day.

In my limited experience, sometimes the "clones/copies" are fine -- and sometimes not.

 

[tearose50]

Well this is odd - the same coil is on a new iStick 20w and is reading 1.5 ohms and seems like has more of a burnt taste than when I have it on my older iStick 20w, which reads it at 1.6 ohms. Battery dying on the older one maybe? They are both reading about the same battery level right now.
And - go!

My guess -- it's continuing to be too dry, thus scorching more.

Back in the dark ages some used to boil cartos, rinse and boil again and again until the water was clear and then let sit for days to dry or bake at very low temperature for some time. Some would revive and could be used for a much shorter time period.

As these coils are similar to cartomizers -- I would imagine the "filler" (wicking) could loose its fluffyness and ability to wick as well after washing. As you know, scorching/burnt taste is only due to poor wicking.

Of course, quality control from any manufacturer crops up, too.

 

[LostVapeMonster]

I ordered some "clone" kangers from FT--- the box looked identical to all other non-clone boxes as did the coils -- but the coils, well, they were horrible. So, the box is not the indicator.. I knew it was a gamble, but I guess I was in a gambling mood that day.

In my limited experience, sometimes the "clones/copies" are fine -- and sometimes not.

I feel like if you're gonna gamble, you might do better to gamble on the actual tank and not the coils, since the coils are what make the tank function. Just my

 

[Cheechako]

It is unbelievable the inconsistencies of factory coils. It makes it frustrating
To diagnose failures And possible negative experiences for those that take
the recommendation of users who have had nothing but "Good luck" with a
particular brand.
I hope you figure out what had a negative effect on your coil, whether it was
the way it was washed, stored, handled, looked at, installed, or talked to in
a stern manner...

 

[tearose50]

I feel like if you're gonna gamble, you might do better to gamble on the actual tank and not the coils, since the coils are what make the tank function. Just my

So much around here is a gamble. I've often said we are all just beta testers. Sure glad I beta tested the iStick20 and the GS16s.

I've got a genuine $$ at the time, very well made Peakomizer I, using genuine coils I adore with other devices, and simply can't get it to work properly! Of course, that topper didn't make it to the top 10 charts, though the manufacturer makes some excellent toppers!

I do understand your post --- I most certainly agree that it wasn't the best spur of the moment decision to even consider clone coils once. There is enough QC problems with "known" brands that have a reputation to build or hold. My post was made to point out that the Box looking like a duck, doesn't mean it's a duck. One must pay careful attention to the wording at FT.

I hope the buyer of these FT GS Air coils lets us know how they perform for him/her.

 

[Katya]

Thank you!
I found the blunt nose needle was easier to control than the screwdriver.
I was sure no one wanted to hear another person stammer through a rebuilding video

I wanted to hear your voice.

Anyway, I prefer larger diameter coils for my rebuilds; they are easier to wick and install, and I think they perform better. I have two coiling gizmos and I use drill bits to install my new coils--5/64 (almost 2 mm) and 3/34 3/32 (2.4 mm).

Oh, have you considered cleaning and reusing the wrap that comes with the coil?

 

[LostVapeMonster]

My guess -- it's continuing to be too dry, thus scorching more.

Back in the dark ages some used to boil cartos, rinse and boil again and again until the water was clear and then let sit for days to dry or bake at very low temperature for some time. Some would revive and could be used for a much shorter time period.

As these coils are similar to cartomizers -- I would imagine the "filler" (wicking) could loose its fluffyness and ability to wick as well after washing. As you know, scorching/burnt taste is only due to poor wicking.

Of course, quality control from any manufacturer crops up, too.

I don't know what the problem is, however, I did just do a primer puff for kicks and grins, and it seemed to help. I primed the coil really well last night too, with several drops of liquid directly to the coil filler and a primer puff or two. Regardless, this coil is going straight into the chuck it and "f-it" bucket when I get home. My ADV has been wretchedly disgusting today and that just makes me

 

[e-pipeman]

It's new coil time!

 

[tearose50]

EEks -- out and about (or at work) without a backup.

Try several primer puffs. And perhaps then just a couple prior to every puff and see if it helps you through the day.

I recently saw a video where the manufacturer suggested 20 (yes, 20) primer puffs before first use! I saw another where they said to lightly blow on it to prime??? (even a dainty blow on it repeated usually ends up with liquid out the air holes for me)

 

[Katya]

I ordered some "clone" kangers from FT--- the box looked identical to all other non-clone boxes as did the coils -- but the coils, well, they were horrible. So, the box is not the indicator.. I knew it was a gamble, but I guess I was in a gambling mood that day.

In my limited experience, sometimes the "clones/copies" are fine -- and sometimes not.

Agreed.

Plenty of fakes are being sold in official looking boxes--including fake scratch safety codes.

 

[Katya]

My guess -- it's continuing to be too dry, thus scorching more.

Back in the dark ages some used to boil cartos, rinse and boil again and again until the water was clear and then let sit for days to dry or bake at very low temperature for some time. Some would revive and could be used for a much shorter time period.

As these coils are similar to cartomizers -- I would imagine the "filler" (wicking) could loose its fluffyness and ability to wick as well after washing. As you know, scorching/burnt taste is only due to poor wicking.

Of course, quality control from any manufacturer crops up, too.

Which is why I stopped boiling my cartos after my first few attempts. They were never the same afterwards.

 

[Cheechako]

I wanted to hear your voice.

Anyway, I prefer larger diameter coils for my rebuilds; they are easier to wick and install, and I think they perform better. I have two coiling gizmos and I use drill bits to install my new coils--5/64 (almost 2 mm) and 3/34 (2.4 mm).

Oh, have you considered cleaning and reusing the wrap that comes with the coil?

I tried reusing the liner material and found the thinner stuff I substituted allowed better wicking instead.
I finaly found the container for the stuff I found, it's from McKesson and only describes it as "non-woven gauze".
I don't even bother with stock now and rebuild out of the box.
I wish I could collect all the coils being tossed!
Now I'm going to have to go through my drill bits to vary the coils...how many wraps do you use and what
gauge kanthal?
I suppose I could have used my "Radio voice" on the video from when I was a DJ at a FM station years ago,
"Next on radio Cheechako, a blast from the present, the award winnning GS Air!"

 

[LostVapeMonster]

I wanted to hear your voice.

Anyway, I prefer larger diameter coils for my rebuilds; they are easier to wick and install, and I think they perform better. I have two coiling gizmos and I use drill bits to install my new coils--5/64 (almost 2 mm) and 3/34 (2.4 mm).

Oh, have you considered cleaning and reusing the wrap that comes with the coil?

Hi Birdie.

 

[Bikenstein]

I wanted to hear your voice.

Anyway, I prefer larger diameter coils for my rebuilds; they are easier to wick and install, and I think they perform better. I have two coiling gizmos and I use drill bits to install my new coils--5/64 (almost 2 mm) and 3/34 (2.4 mm).

Oh, have you considered cleaning and reusing the wrap that comes with the coil?

3/32............................not pikkin on ya

 

[Katya]

3/32............................not pikkin on ya

3/32 it is. And you're picking.

Off to edit my post. Thanks.

 

[Katya]

I tried reusing the liner material and found the thinner stuff I substituted allowed better wicking instead.
I finaly found the container for the stuff I found, it's from McKesson and only describes it as "non-woven gauze".
I don't even bother with stock now and rebuild out of the box.
I wish I could collect all the coils being tossed!
Now I'm going to have to go through my drill bits to vary the coils...how many wraps do you use and what
gauge kanthal?
I suppose I could have used my "Radio voice" on the video from when I was a DJ at a FM station years ago,
"Next on radio Cheechako, a blast from the present, the award winnning GS Air!"

I've tried 30, 29 and 28 g kanthal for my Kanger-like rebuilds.

I don't like the 30--too thin. The 28 g, I tried 10/9 and 9/8 wraps on 2mm ID (1.6-1.5Ω). It's OK.

I think I like the 29 g the best. I usually go for 9/8 wraps, 1.8Ω or so.