Erl Mini clone - need some help and insight

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defdock

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to start - i purchased the mini clone from FT.

got it today, coiled it and wicked it with new coils i also got from FT. - 1.5 ohm coils with NR-r legs... well i put one in and wicked it - istick reads it at 2.4... i tightned down the post screws and nothing. adjust the tank and it starts reading from 2.0 to 2.6 jumping quite frequent.

pushed that issue aside and descided to fill, it was good for a few hits and leaked, so i rebuilt it. new coil and wick - still reading 2.4 with 1.5 ohm coils...

got it working, but now its going "wonky with power" - my istick is set to 3.0V... il take a puff and its fine, then next puff will be severely wet/moist and underpowered. then another puff and its super HOT.


after that i descided to check the atty itself.... under the airflow ring - the base meets the 510 threaded post... here inlays my problem... its not secure... if i tried to overtighten my atty onto my mod SLIGHTLY, it would just completely spin the tank....


is there a way to fix this connection? or should i send it back for RMA?
 

defdock

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Most of the Erlks have a short 510 and the istick isn't adjustable. Do you have a mod that has an adjustable 510 you can put it on?

If not, a circuit board spacer from Madvapes should solve the problem.

i thought it was the center PIN, but it is not - this clone has an adjustable 510 from what im looking at in my hand.

i tightened the pin down and used an old "510 to ego adapter" that had an extremely long pin in it to see if it was the issue.



i have issolated the issue, but wondering if anyone has a fix or if i should just send it back.

the 510 threads are "punched into" to tank base, and that conection is loose. the entire connection is loose in comparison to the tank.
 

VHRB2014

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My erlk clone had connection problems at the deck/510 due to the way its assembled and the crap that was under it.

I dont have time to do picture, so I`ll try and walk you through it without.

Remove your coil, remove the threaded 510 center pin on the bottom. Now, you`ll see a nylon (?) washer nut thing (under your threaded 510 pin) with a straight cutout in it that a screwdriver is supped to fit into. Use a screw driver that fits it perfectly snug (I had to dress one to fit so as not to damage the nylon nut), and screw it out in the standard normal direction, you`ll see that this nut holds your positive coil post in the deck. You can now push your positive coil post out towards the top. Remove it and you`ll probably note lots of gunk and garbage in there, causing a pretty iffy connection. Clean it all out and when its time to reassemble, be careful with that nylon nut, snug it up good, but don`t over tighten it to the point you strip it out.

Now it should vape without a bad intermittent connection.

PS: once you have it cleaned and with that nut in snug, look at the top pos post carefully and make sure it has`nt rotated to the point it grounding out on the deck anywhere. If so, you can wedge it over just a little bit with a straight driver between it and the walls around it until its centered again.

And unfortunately, it gets lose at times. I`m going to try and peen some interference marks into my 510 so it fits a bit better (tight!) the next time I have it apart.
 
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maleasdf

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unfortunately, it gets lose at times. I`m going to try and peen some interference marks into my 510 so it fits a bit better (tight!) the next time I have it apart.

I had done the same to get it to work with nickel builds but as you say it gets loose over time and I am back tightening it again and again. Also it seems to seep juice from deck through 510. Thinking of using some teflon tape used for plumbing to make it tighter but have no clue if it is safe to use. Any thoughts from others before I proceed.
 
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defdock

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Thinking of using some teflon tape used for plumbing to make it tighter but have no clue if it is safe to use. Any thoughts from others before I proceed.


same here. - should be safe to use just dont cover the screw completely to cut off the possitive connection


and i have also found the answer to my solution.

part 17/18 from the list on the official erl site - was put in upsidedown durring assembly so the center pin is/was extremly loose, even when "tightened up" all the way finger tight.


havent turned it around yet, but an oring under the pin fixed the issue for now.
 
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