EverCool Variable Voltage Mod
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Hi just want to show how mine turned out 
thanks a lot BigBlue30 for the brilliant work
It has an USB out, just in case my phone runes low
The 2x18650 2400mah. lasted me 10 days = 18ml juice
My next one is going to have a volt display built in. And also using 2x 18650
thanks a lot BigBlue30 for the brilliant work It has an USB out, just in case my phone runes low
The 2x18650 2400mah. lasted me 10 days = 18ml juice
My next one is going to have a volt display built in. And also using 2x 18650
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LOL, Ya. Me to, for 6 months until i looked real close with a magnifiying glass. No wonder i was having so much trouble on these boards. I was prolly shorting out half the connections. lol
Anyone have their board go out on them or is it just me?
EDIT: Of course right after i say that, while testing things with a multimeter it just starts working again.... confused! lol...
EDIT: Of course right after i say that, while testing things with a multimeter it just starts working again.... confused! lol...
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Sounds like a cold joint. Those jokers can be pretty tough to track down due to their intermittent nature. A rework station would come in handy right about now, reflow all the solder joints with hot air would more then likely fix it.
Ya thats the only thing I could think of, but all joints on my circuits were ~1ohm with no voltage and ~2ohm when live (minus the adjust of course). The board its self is a little too small for me to check for cold joints. Hoping that I just got something on the chip itself to short something, and happened to get rid of it while testing it.
Wish I had one of those stations. But, if it does it again, I'll probably treat it like my video card, and pop it in the oven for 3-5 mins to reset the solder joints, worked on my buddies pcc board.
Wish I had one of those stations. But, if it does it again, I'll probably treat it like my video card, and pop it in the oven for 3-5 mins to reset the solder joints, worked on my buddies pcc board.
Yeah...kinda missed that part. Even had one right in front of me that I didn't flip over cuz I just thought it was a pre-punch...
Damn! I searched everyplace that I could find....allelectronics just moved to the top of my lists.Old eyes should use old style.
Ovens work for alot of stuff but i wouldnt try it with a PTR80100 chip. Gravity might have a unwanted effect on parts soldered to it when the temp got high enough in the oven. It has parts soldered on both sides. If mounted the way it comes ( straight up and down to the main board ) i think for sure you would see stuff siding off it in the oven. Most people bend this chip flat for this mod so the one side would be ok, I would still be worried about the bottom side though. One of the draw backs to the oven method you cant put the heat to a small area like you can with a rework station.
Didnt think of that, but its a definite possibility, thanks for the warning, I may have ruined my precious little chip if I tried it.
Well its been working fine for the past hour or so... so I think(hope) it was just something shorting part of the board. SO hopefully it keeps going that way. haha
Well its been working fine for the past hour or so... so I think(hope) it was just something shorting part of the board. SO hopefully it keeps going that way. haha
Ok, TI is out of the 8100 (backorder mar 8th) as far as samples go, but I did get some 8060's. 6A output, would that be enough for an atty? I plan on using a pair of 10440's in series for power, so I should have 8.2V (when max charged) falling to 7.4 right away, then down from there. I want to regulate at ~5v.
Also, has anyone tried a PNP transistor circuit with a tactile switch to use the inhibit pin? I'm not an electronic guru, but basically what I'm after is a way to use a transistor to reverse the NO switch, so when the switch is off, the transistor is on and grounding the inhibit pin, and hitting the fire switch will turn off the transistor, and the #1 pin is not grounded and floating (I guess) to the power reg. goes active. I know there's a current drain if using the inhibit, but you can always switch off the master to keep the batt's up.
Also, has anyone tried a PNP transistor circuit with a tactile switch to use the inhibit pin? I'm not an electronic guru, but basically what I'm after is a way to use a transistor to reverse the NO switch, so when the switch is off, the transistor is on and grounding the inhibit pin, and hitting the fire switch will turn off the transistor, and the #1 pin is not grounded and floating (I guess) to the power reg. goes active. I know there's a current drain if using the inhibit, but you can always switch off the master to keep the batt's up.
6 amps is more then enough to power a atomizer. You could even power a LR atomizer at the max 5.5 and still have amps to spare. I wouldn't recommend that though unless you like burnt juice.
As far as using a NO switch with this you might want to take a look at the schematic CapeCAD made up for the okami switching module. It is pretty close to being the same exact chip as the TI.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/152392-coolgate-variable-voltage-mod.html
As far as using a NO switch with this you might want to take a look at the schematic CapeCAD made up for the okami switching module. It is pretty close to being the same exact chip as the TI.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/152392-coolgate-variable-voltage-mod.html
If I remember right... Haven't been into electronics for many many years but... if he put a 250 ohm 1/8W resistor in parallel with the 1k ohm pot he would get a full range from 0 to 200 ohms. It's not the ideal solution but if all he has on hand is a 1k pot it should work and he would get the desired resulting output voltage range. I also seem to remember that by using this technique, the output of the pot will not be linear. I just can't remember which end of the range it favors. Senility setting in here.
No, this is definitely not a LR friendly mod I'm planning. I suppose I can make it tunable since it is a rather efficient regulator and drop the volts for an LR, but I'm primarily looking at using a totally Wicked Tank atty on here, and some 510's.
I didn't know I could run a resistor like that, but it makes sense. Would an LED and resistor combo work in there I wonder, or would the diode be "backwards" and not ground the inhibit pin?
10440's are best used as paper weights. No matter what they say on them after a month your true rating will be about 250mAh. And they are quite expensive for what you get. Acceptable 14500's are usually cheaper and will give you hours more vape times.
Wish I had known this before, I just ordered some 10440's and 2 3aaa boxes from Madvapes for this... :-(
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