EverCool Variable Voltage Mod
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How many amps output from the booster should I be shopping for? I guess I would need a separate booster from a USB charger?
I can understand protecting the LED with a resistor but doesn't the regulator limit the voltage coming off the battery for the other parts?
Does it not matter what side of the LED the resistor goes on?
Why the one by the pot?
Why 220 on them all?
I saw the triangle symbol with the perpendicular line and thought it meant diode. What does it really mean?
Does it not matter what side of the LED the resistor goes on?
Why the one by the pot?
Why 220 on them all?
I saw the triangle symbol with the perpendicular line and thought it meant diode. What does it really mean?
If you are looking to use an add on charging module for the Evercool mod, you'll have a harder time finding something. Multi-cell Li-Ion charging modules are out there, but I wouldn't know where to direct you. The single cell ones are much more common. The problem you run into with multi-cell Li-Ion chargers is you need individual cell monitoring to ensure none of the cells are getting over charged. Li-Ions are hyper sensitive to over-charging. Because of the vastly different charging method used with NiMH batts, it's actually the multi-cell ones that are more common. Using a 6 cell NiMH pack with the Evercool mod could be a more viable option for on-board charging. One benefit is that NiMH batts are generally safer to use.
Booster modules tend to have lower current capacity than buck modules. It's because with a buck, you are going from higher voltage and lower current to lower voltage and higher current. With boost, you're going from lower voltage and higher current to higher voltage and lower current. That's like going uphill. The highest output POL boost module I've seen is the one discussed in the forum here (I don't recall the part number, but I believe it's a TI part). It's 12W which is usually fine for a standard resistance atomizer, but is underpowered from something like the 1.6Ω dual coil cartomizers.
The 73831 is a basic controller. The 73833 is an advanced controller with a full set of safety features and a higher rate for larger batteries.
Booster modules tend to have lower current capacity than buck modules. It's because with a buck, you are going from higher voltage and lower current to lower voltage and higher current. With boost, you're going from lower voltage and higher current to higher voltage and lower current. That's like going uphill. The highest output POL boost module I've seen is the one discussed in the forum here (I don't recall the part number, but I believe it's a TI part). It's 12W which is usually fine for a standard resistance atomizer, but is underpowered from something like the 1.6Ω dual coil cartomizers.
The 73831 is a basic controller. The 73833 is an advanced controller with a full set of safety features and a higher rate for larger batteries.
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Where is this?...
"The highest output POL boost module I've seen is the one discussed in the forum here"...
I would be OK with a mod that only works with standard resistance atomizers.
My wish list is to build my own mod that has variable voltage, has a built-in LED volt meter for output and battery life, long life between charging, and USB charging/passthrough capabilities.
"The highest output POL boost module I've seen is the one discussed in the forum here"...
I would be OK with a mod that only works with standard resistance atomizers.
My wish list is to build my own mod that has variable voltage, has a built-in LED volt meter for output and battery life, long life between charging, and USB charging/passthrough capabilities.
You'll get pretty good run time using the Evercool setup and two 14500 batts. That's around 1500 mAh which is usually plenty for most people. The voltmeter should work. I believe MadVapes is in error about that. Maybe it doesn't in some cases, but it really should unless it's crappy meter that can't handle a little ripple voltage.
To build one of these mods, just follow the information in this thread. It's all here.
If you want to be able to charge without removing the batts, you're probably complicating things unnecessarily. Just use an enclosure that has easy access and charge the batts in a stand-alone charger the way everyone else does. Usually, built-in charging is only required for fixed battery mods. Unless you have a compelling reason to use a fixed battery (there can be), that really shouldn't be a consideration for you.
If you really insist on built-in charging, the easiest thing to do is use a single battery with a boost converter. This is the one people have been using and again, it has less output capacity than the Evercool.
To build one of these mods, just follow the information in this thread. It's all here.
If you want to be able to charge without removing the batts, you're probably complicating things unnecessarily. Just use an enclosure that has easy access and charge the batts in a stand-alone charger the way everyone else does. Usually, built-in charging is only required for fixed battery mods. Unless you have a compelling reason to use a fixed battery (there can be), that really shouldn't be a consideration for you.
If you really insist on built-in charging, the easiest thing to do is use a single battery with a boost converter. This is the one people have been using and again, it has less output capacity than the Evercool.
Did you buy the MCP73833 separately or as part of a charger? Is that mod variable voltage?
Would I be able to use this Lithium Li-Ion 18650 7.4V 2200mAh Battery Pack L18650-2200-2 with this LiPo Charger Basic - Mini-USB - SparkFun Electronics and make it part of the evercool VV mod with enough current to use any atomizer? That would eliminate the booster.
Hello all. How and where do you get the free sample regulators? I want to build one of these myself. I'm vaping an ego now, but want to try a vv. Thanks for any and all info.
No, that charger (4.5V max, 500mAh max) will not work with that battery pack (7.4V nominal, 6V - 8.4V).
That charger will not provide enough voltage or current to power any converter under an atty load. It will charge a single battery that is not in use.
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I designed my own, but I wouldn't recommend trying it unless you know what you are doing as there are safety concerns.
I'd suggest you start your own thread or read the threads already existing regarding this.
I'm not familiar with the Darwin, does it use multiple batteries?
I don't know what is in it either but I know you have to send it in if the batteries go bad.
Single LiPo flat cell, on board charging, buck/boost regulator, wattage controlled. Non user replacable cell. LiPo flat cells have high cycle life, as high as 1000, but if one does wear out, you can send the unit in to have it replaced.
Anyway, @the.vapyre, you really should start another thread if you are looking to build something with a regulator other than what the Evercool uses. Not fair to others referencing this thread.
Just to clarify -- It is NOT a buck/boost -- it is boost (or a buck/boost not designed to buck very well -- of course it may have changed since the first run that I have). Correct me if I'm wrong.
The lowest one can get is Vin less any Fv of any diodes and circuitry on the way out.
Agreed on the new thread for our up and comming modder the.vapyre
The lowest one can get is Vin less any Fv of any diodes and circuitry on the way out.
Agreed on the new thread for our up and comming modder the.vapyre
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go to texas intruments.com and type in either ptr08100 or ptr08060, both will work with this evercool design, the only difference is the amp rating. this information is in the first post of this thread.
Again, I am a newbie and I do not understand what I wrote that was unfair but I am truly sorry. Please explain. This is all new to me. I have little electronics experience but have recently become obsessed with it. Thank you all who have clarified so much to me already. I consider you trusted experts and fellow dedicated vapers. I have plunged in head first with a conviction of what I want to end up with. I liked the idea of the evercool with its more efficient battery usage and was trying to figure out a way to add a USB charger/pass-through to the mix. I keep hitting dead-ends with what I am finding available to do it. I really do believe it is possible and that was the only reason why I mentioned the Darwin because it is variable voltage/wattage, has a USB charger, and you can use it while plugged in charging while vaping. I was not trying to promote any regulator. I already have a VMU Innovate and wanted to take it a step or two further for my own personal know-how. I would like to have an understanding of more complex modding with the ability to produce and develop my own mods. Again, I am sorry for any unfairness on my part. I may start another thread but this one seems to be going where I think I should be going. I have got alot out of this thread.
Thanks for the information. Samples are on the way. Been reading this thread over the past few days. Was going to try one of the MadVapes box mod vv, but was concerned about the heat. This cool version is much improved. Ordered a 10 amp and a 6 amp chip. That way if the wife likes mine I can make her one.
Thanks again sierra for the info and thanks to everyone for a great thread. Happy vaping.
Thanks again sierra for the info and thanks to everyone for a great thread. Happy vaping.
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