I haven't been able to find them "reasonably priced" anywhere. The cheapest I've seen them is 10 for $14 on amazon. Unfortunately I'm dead broke right now so all of my mod projects are on hold indefinitely.
EverCool Variable Voltage Mod
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I haven't been able to find them "reasonably priced" anywhere. The cheapest I've seen them is 10 for $14 on amazon. Unfortunately I'm dead broke right now so all of my mod projects are on hold indefinitely.
I've been looking for a bulk order as well (50-100pcs). Here's what I found:
Vishay 100uf 10v 10% Tantalum SMD - 100pcs for $50
Kemet 100uf 16v 20% Tantalum SMD - 60pcs for $12
60 for $12 is the absolute cheapest I've found, but the datasheet says minimum of 100uf and with 20% tolerance that is anywhere from 80uf - 120uf, so I'm a bit hesistant. If there are a few of you who only want a dozen or so at a time, let me know and I'll get some extra since they're cheaper in bulk. Too bad the dipped through-hole caps are so expensive because they look so much cooler...
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I'm hoping someone can help me out here. This was already set up and working in another box that I had made before I had gotten all the pieces to make the mod, prob was I made the first box wrong and had to make a new box for it.
Now that its all put together in this new box it wont work. I get power to the led and to the atty connector, it just wont fire the atty.
When I use a multimeter to check the volts to the atty it jumps around a little bit and I can adjust the volts up and down with the pot but it dose jump around like half a volt up and down. When I use my screw in volt meter it just flashes really fast.
Any ideas of what I could have screwed up? or something gone bad like the trimmer or something?
Wired it exactly As shown in this diagram I think
Now that its all put together in this new box it wont work. I get power to the led and to the atty connector, it just wont fire the atty.
When I use a multimeter to check the volts to the atty it jumps around a little bit and I can adjust the volts up and down with the pot but it dose jump around like half a volt up and down. When I use my screw in volt meter it just flashes really fast.
Any ideas of what I could have screwed up? or something gone bad like the trimmer or something?
Wired it exactly As shown in this diagram I think
Hogwart. If it worked once you built it correct . Check for any shorts between the wires. It is hard to see, but is the White wire at the board touching the 220 ohm restistor?.... Or the pot is bad.
Well pulled it out and seperated everything, still not working correctly. Guess ill try to change out the pot. Something tells me its not going to come out easy 
OK maybe I'm just doing something totally wrong here. I replaced the pot and same results, so I built another one.
Used new everything and same results. volts jumping around .5v wont fire an atty and the screw in vold meter just flashes.
I'm I totally missing something here or screwed something up in some way?
It seemed to be working in the other box but I didn't really use it because the other box was to small to fit the bottom feeder bottle into.
Heres how its wired. Please let me know if something is wrong here, I don't know how to read the schematics very well.
Used new everything and same results. volts jumping around .5v wont fire an atty and the screw in vold meter just flashes.
I'm I totally missing something here or screwed something up in some way?
It seemed to be working in the other box but I didn't really use it because the other box was to small to fit the bottom feeder bottle into.
Heres how its wired. Please let me know if something is wrong here, I don't know how to read the schematics very well.
Ok been wracking my head on this, and went through all the parts. If it was the pot that originally went bad on it, would replacing it with a 200k ohm pot instead of a 200 ohm pot make it do the same thing with volts jumping all over and not firing the atty?
Because thats what I did.
When I made my second parts order from mouser instead of digikey I accidently ordered 200k ohm pots instead of 200 ohm pots.
I have got to get one of those breadboards and learn how to use them =(
Because thats what I did.
When I made my second parts order from mouser instead of digikey I accidently ordered 200k ohm pots instead of 200 ohm pots.
I have got to get one of those breadboards and learn how to use them =(
Yeah, a 200k ohm pot would be impossible to adjust properly. Like the hot water tap in a bad shower, it would have only a tiny little range of useful resistance. Move it just a touch in either direction will make it too low or high.
it may just be the picture but your power input pin solder joint (on the madvapes board) for the TI reg looks Dicey...I'm looking at the back view second pin from the left...I do know I had a reg act like what your describing when that pin broke on the reg from stress so a bad solder joint there could do it...
also yea a 200k pot is wayyyy too much...the k puts it out of the ballpark...
also yea a 200k pot is wayyyy too much...the k puts it out of the ballpark...
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Could it be that the cuts you made on the board were made on the wrong side of the board? Can't really tell from the pics, but if the cuts don't break the connection it will not work......
I blew up your photo and I'm not sure still if your 220 ohm res is actually soldered to pin 3 or not. It shouldn't be. Your diagram is correct though. Just not sure about the photo.
OK maybe I'm just doing something totally wrong here. I replaced the pot and same results, so I built another one.
Used new everything and same results. volts jumping around .5v wont fire an atty and the screw in vold meter just flashes.
I'm I totally missing something here or screwed something up in some way?
It seemed to be working in the other box but I didn't really use it because the other box was to small to fit the bottom feeder bottle into.
Heres how its wired. Please let me know if something is wrong here, I don't know how to read the schematics very well.
I looked at the above pics and cannot see where the cuts were made in pic 1.....I see cuts made in pic 2 but there are no runs on that side of the board.....did you make any cuts on the board side in pic 1?
ok ordered, some new 200 ohm pots to replace the 200k ohm ones I accidentally ordered.
The cuts actually go all the way through the board, the resistor and pot are just covering them on the front side pic. prob over kill but I couldn't tell if the were all the way cut so I just cut both sides till I could see daylight through it.
the 220 ohm resistor is in holes 1 and 2 with batt - in hole 3 from the left
And yup skipped filling in that solder joint on the backside, second from left solder hole.
So now I guess I just wait for me 200 ohm pots and switch them out and see
The cuts actually go all the way through the board, the resistor and pot are just covering them on the front side pic. prob over kill but I couldn't tell if the were all the way cut so I just cut both sides till I could see daylight through it.
the 220 ohm resistor is in holes 1 and 2 with batt - in hole 3 from the left
And yup skipped filling in that solder joint on the backside, second from left solder hole.
So now I guess I just wait for me 200 ohm pots and switch them out and see
Your correct retird, the CUTS were made on the wrong side of the board. I was looking at the cuts but failed to observe it was the opposite side.
ok replaced the pot and still doesnt work, so I did what I should have done before and got out the multimeter and started checking. (not that I really know how to use it)
So I get 8v + down line 2, the power in line.
I get .6v everywhere else, down line 4 and at the atty.
while testing the neg in slipped off the battery and when that happened I get 5.83v down line 4 and at the atty.
Soon as I reconnect the neg in to the boards I get .6v again.
Any ideas?
So I get 8v + down line 2, the power in line.
I get .6v everywhere else, down line 4 and at the atty.
while testing the neg in slipped off the battery and when that happened I get 5.83v down line 4 and at the atty.
Soon as I reconnect the neg in to the boards I get .6v again.
Any ideas?
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Madvapes told me the LED voltage display would not work with a switching regulator. How did you get around this?
take 2 , on the Evercool
View attachment 33392View attachment 33393View attachment 33394View attachment 33395
If following this schematic and I wanted to add a Battery Voltage Indicator, where would I need to solder that?
View attachment 39084
Ok, it should probably be soldered to the atty connector!
View attachment 39084
Ok, it should probably be soldered to the atty connector!
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