I hope my new solder station will be here today. I want to build a new evercool and a new mini voltage meter to take to the Michigan vapor fest on Saturday.
EverCool Variable Voltage Mod
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Of all the mods and batteries i have...This one has been my go to since I made it. I think you will be very happy.
Be very careful it you are going to bend the pins at all. They do not like to bend....they like to break.
The one I just built on Monday I used a old 16 pin dip connector to mount the chip..I just cut it in half and trimmed it down to 5 pins long.
The 16 dip looks like this:
Online Product Offering HWS10267
Be very careful it you are going to bend the pins at all. They do not like to bend....they like to break.
The one I just built on Monday I used a old 16 pin dip connector to mount the chip..I just cut it in half and trimmed it down to 5 pins long.
The 16 dip looks like this:
Online Product Offering HWS10267
I knew I saw them somewhere. I'll be getting a few of these next time I order from sparkfun
SparkFun Electronics - 6 Pin Right Angle Female Header
Actually, looks like one way or another something still has to be bent there...
SparkFun Electronics - 6 Pin Right Angle Female Header
Actually, looks like one way or another something still has to be bent there...
Yes, but the pins on that adapter will be a lot easier to bend. The one on the chip are not
After building mine I'm surprised how far you got that one bent! Mine is still at a 30* angle, or there about.
The project box I was going to use ended up not being big enough so I now have it in a 2AA case + the project case attached to each other.
The project box I was going to use ended up not being big enough so I now have it in a 2AA case + the project case attached to each other.
Here is one I just put together to show the plug in for the chip:
Here is the cut down board and the 16 pin DIP socket
Here I cut the 16 pin DIP socket down the center. I only need half of it
Now I cut it down to 5 pins and then bent the pin down.
Top view ready to solder
Back side ... you can also see the two cuts in the foil
Chip and board with the connector
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Here's where I am now.. Had to stop 'cus the evening's beverage is kicking in and I'm blind.. 
When I started this evening - I found that I didn't have any 220 resistors, I PM'd BB and he came though like a champ - apparently you can string resistors together or double them up "The 220 ohm that is connected to the LED is optional, but the one from E5 to E4 is not. That one is in line with the 200 ohm pot. You can ADD resistors "head to tail" to add up to 220, Or side by side to divide to 220....ie two 440's side by side =220." Good to know!
I was going to string some together, but decided that I better wait.. yet another trip to RS tommorrow...
When I started this evening - I found that I didn't have any 220 resistors, I PM'd BB and he came though like a champ - apparently you can string resistors together or double them up "The 220 ohm that is connected to the LED is optional, but the one from E5 to E4 is not. That one is in line with the 200 ohm pot. You can ADD resistors "head to tail" to add up to 220, Or side by side to divide to 220....ie two 440's side by side =220." Good to know!
I was going to string some together, but decided that I better wait.. yet another trip to RS tommorrow...
I'll dig in my stock at work and see what I can find. Most of the bucks I have are in MLF though(same as QFN, quad flat no lead). Hmm I'll go over to apps and see if I can scrounge any demo boards, I wonder if I could sneak in and use the proto engraver while I'm there . Most of our bucks are mhz switchers with 92-95% eff. I think I might have a few rails of some competitors 2a adj bucks in to263 that are pretty decent.
I'll do some digging and see what I can find.
. Most of our bucks are mhz switchers with 92-95% eff. I think I might have a few rails of some competitors 2a adj bucks in to263 that are pretty decent. I'll do some digging and see what I can find.
Here's where I am now.. Had to stop 'cus the evening's beverage is kicking in and I'm blind..
Smart man....That is when I do most of my OH S...'s. BTY... I know we are not using pin 1, but hit it one more time to fill the hole..
And if you heat 4C again the solder will "pull" away from 5C.
hmm I was poking around on fleabay and found some interesting toys 1.5a switcher board for $10 AX3022 Based Switching Regulator Adapter, Step-Down - eBay (item 350398729372 end time Oct-08-10 05:27:06 PDT) free shipping 80% efficient, but good price including board and components. 1.5a LM317 for $6 shipped LM317 adjustable voltage regulator prototype module - eBay (item 350113280332 end time Oct-10-10 20:50:32 PDT)
I pretty much always use Joye 510 atties. If I want tun at 5V I'll need about 2.4A for 12 watts. Neither of these will work. Drop out voltage is also important.
Your second choice also says:
No good.
Am I seeing it right? It looks like you still had to spread the pins quite a bit and bend the 2 outside pins to insert. No?
Very 'official' looking.
Yes, I had to spread them,but not as much. No bends.
I am still looking for a 4 pin like the 2 and 3 in the pic below. The spacing is perfect with these, but I need it in a 4 or 5 pin configuration.
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Typically switchers don't offer that great of Vsat because of how they work. I have rail upon rail of LDOs sitting in my office if you want some seriously low dropout(for high current applications we have as low as 100mv, for low current as low as 10mv), but from the looks of it you were trying to stick with a switcher for efficiency. Personally I prefer linear regs for my tinkering projects due to the limited number of external components(a pair of caps), we have LDOs that we call our nano cap line, although it's a bit of a misnomer because they are stable with a pair of 1uf caps. Also we have some LDOs that are upwards of 85% efficient, although not many high current efficient LDOs. I got my hands on some eval boards to play with, I'm going to fire them up on my bench and see what they can do. Perhaps I can pay a few of them forward after scratching off identifying marks lol although our die all have the company name, hopefully no one decaps them.
Thanks for the ideas. I was originally going to be lazy and just use a pair of 3.7v batts and bleed them through a big pot. Funny that I work at a semiconductor company and usually choose the lazy way out lol. I was an analog test engineer(power switches was my gig, usb pcmcia and such) in a former life, although I'm just an IT weenie now
what about a 4 pin fan connector for pwm fans? the audio cable above is ok, but it's usually only 28ga inside, I'd be nervous about putting 2.5a though it.
edit or what about 4 pin power cable for old floppies? same pitch as the pwm fan, just different height. I think they are .1" pitch
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I just ripped a CD-Sound Card cable out of an old (very old) computer to check the spacing on tonight... Four wires, different colors....
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