EverCool Variable Voltage Mod
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Yeah, that makes it a bit clearer for me. I guess one thing I didn't realize was that when using the standard 3AA box w/switch, you need to rewire the box switch from using the negative to the positive, right?
That was just the way I drew it. As long as you disconnect the battery, it does not make a difference + or -. Leave the black wire as it comes with the box. Just picture the "box" switch on the other side of the battery.....move it down.
Alright then...thanks BigBlue. You've been a big help to us here in the community.
I guess one thing I don't understand is this then:
Do I need to take the positive wire (from the battery), and sort of splice it? IE: send one directly to B2 on the board, and the other to the gate on the mosfet.
I guess one thing I don't understand is this then:
Do I need to take the positive wire (from the battery), and sort of splice it? IE: send one directly to B2 on the board, and the other to the gate on the mosfet.
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The + side of the battery goes 2 places....B2 on the board and to the "top" of the "fire" switch, then from the fire switch to the gate.
Doing the MOSET is a lot more work. Putting in a 3 amp fire switch or getting a N/C for the fire is a lot easier. By the time you install a MOSFET, Resistor, and the wire....A 3 amp fire switch or a N/C switch on pin 1 will take a lot less room and use less parts.
Ok, that's what I was thinking there. Would it be best to take two wires from the POS terminal to do the job, or just one and split it to the inputs?
I won't disagree with you there
But I ordered the wrong switch(es), at least for this project, and the switch I wanted to use was only available in N/O.
Note using a MOSFET might take the current load off, but a cheap, crappy switch made with 10¢ worth of parts is still a bad move.... I won't disagree with you there
If you vape for about 5 hours a day and hit that switch 3 times a minute that's almost 1,000 activations daily.
Food for thought.
okay i have a question, i am making a 5v mod and i wired the regulator before the switch and i put the pos from the bat to the right lead of the regulator, the neg in the middle, and the positive going to the switch on the left lead. will that work?
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bumping it for the next page. is there anyone online now that would be able to help me
Justin, you need to be clear about which regulator it is and use pin numbers. If it were upside down it would be all backwards.
This is 'off topic' posting. Get all your specific details together as asdaq suggested and start your own topic/thread.bumping it for the next page. is there anyone online now that would be able to help me
okay thanks for the help. didnt think anyone would get upset for asking in here which the originator of the thread was more than willing to help before. thanks to those who helped me before and ill start my own thread asking for some help
I've been looking into the current, what if you wanna use a battery that is not high drain, can this setup supply the current needed. Or is this just a setup where you can have a variable voltage and current wise will depend if your battery is high drain or just run of the mill Li-ion. Or am I not just getting it.
When I started using high drain batteries I noticed that I'm getting better hits with it than run of the mill Li-ion batteries. Also the same thing with using pass-through's that have higher Mah ratings.
When I started using high drain batteries I noticed that I'm getting better hits with it than run of the mill Li-ion batteries. Also the same thing with using pass-through's that have higher Mah ratings.
Well you got the 'little black box' to test for amp draw, right.I've been looking into the current, what if you wanna use a battery that is not high drain, can this setup supply the current needed. Or is this just a setup where you can have a variable voltage and current wise will depend if your battery is high drain or just run of the mill Li-ion. Or am I not just getting it.
When I started using high drain batteries I noticed that I'm getting better hits with it than run of the mill Li-ion batteries...
That statement is a bit to general. Which size batt and atty ohms will come into play. With a standard Joye 510 a common, single 14500 will struggle as it tries to provide the current (which exceeds it's max discharge rating). In this case a hi-drain should help. But once you move to 18650's the 'commons' should be able to meet the current demand (I can notice a difference in 'hit' when I move the same Joye from a 14500 to an 18650). A red/black flame 18650 2400mAh TrustFire (a superior bargain cell) should have no problems with a 2A draw.
I've seen static 3A drain tests and the TF was good for about 2300mAh, while the AW IMR only made it to about 1300mAh. For folks using imitation 510's and cartos (2.8-3.2Ω) it seems all the hi-drains will do is shorten vape times.
Looking at Big's mod he's using a pair of 14500's. With a Joye 510 at about 4.5V (2A) the pair of 'commons' should keep up, and for him if he uses standard cartos (~3Ω) the 1.5A should not present a problem at all.
HexKrak,
If you need any help please let me know. As far as I know only a few of the evercools have been built. I had a little mishap with mine the other day...Lets just say that....a Schwinn tandem bike, and a mod in the top shirt pocket "could" be a mishap. I had to go back to the TI 383 mod for a few days and I hated it. I was so happy the RoadRash had another chip to send me.
If you need any help please let me know. As far as I know only a few of the evercools have been built. I had a little mishap with mine the other day...Lets just say that....a Schwinn tandem bike, and a mod in the top shirt pocket "could" be a mishap. I had to go back to the TI 383 mod for a few days and I hated it. I was so happy the RoadRash had another chip to send me.
Thanks bigblue! I might hit you up there if I run into any issues. It's been since high school that I've prototyped and built a circuit. I am planning one small change, I'm going to try and run a low amp switch with a higher amp transistor instead (http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-micro-switch-mosfet-transistor-tutorial.html). I'm still reserving the right to change my mind on that one though. I'm still trying to decide on the perfect switch, and I may end up with a higher rated one anyway.
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