eVic-VT mini?

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Quantum Mech

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Yeah I pretty much know what battery I would like at each amp point. The doubt I have know is what amp point to choose... ;)
The highest amp I will reach will be with some 0.15 ni200 ohm nautilus coils in TC...at 75W.
Now...if there is that amp limit on the device, I could get some 20A batteries which have a better capacity. But if there is no amp limit on the device, or if it is higher than 20A, then I want the max safety and would probably go with some 25A or even 30A. But if there is that limit and if it means I don't need higher than 20A I wouldn't want to have lower capacity for nothing :) In a nutshell I would run it set at 75W in TC (if there's no amp limit on the device I would be worried, if there is I want capacity).

75w from one battery just kills it in no time

My single cell mods run below 50w, If I need more oomph its time to dig out a dual or triple cell mod
 

cvigti

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75w from one battery just kills it in no time

My single cell mods run below 50w, If I need more oomph its time to dig out a dual or triple cell mod
Nice info :)
I would be running it only in TC mode so, only at 75w for some seconds or miliseconds. Anyway it was just to get the worst case scenario, since I have never used TC and am going to start now. 75W will probably be too much anyway...
 

2legsshrt

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I leave them unlocked mate

And do get the odd occasion when they give a weak vape for no reason

I remove the battery , chuck it back in and all is good again

They aint no sx mini but great for the bucks
No they definately aren't and SXM the one thing I don't like about them is the way they get the resistance of the atty. I have 2 with the same coil and one measures one at .26 and have to run it at 520F the other one measures at .28 and have to run it at 460F. I don't like that you can't just measure the resistance and leave it there.
 

Quantum Mech

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No they definately aren't and SXM the one thing I don't like about them is the way they get the resistance of the atty. I have 2 with the same coil and one measures one at .26 and have to run it at 520F the other one measures at .28 and have to run it at 460F. I don't like that you can't just measure the resistance and leave it there.

let the atty cool on the device with the lock off and both should rest at the correct resistance mate
 

2legsshrt

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They are really weird at .28 460 was almost too hot now at .27 510 is actually just right so I locked it in so it won't change on me. I really like the 6 wrap coil when I get home, I'm going in to get my stumps measured for new sockets today, I'm going to give it a try with Unkamen which is a little thicker more like 24.
 

2legsshrt

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Hey I got my 10 VTC5's from illumn.com and thought I better try one out just in case. I got 27000J on it and it's 2600Mah I only get 28000 on HG2's and they are 3000Mah. So they are great batteries for $6.50 on sale if he still has any. He said he got some fakes about a year ago and called them all back these are the real McCoy and at that price you can't go wrong plus a case with every pair. Quick service also..
 

Quantum Mech

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It was at .26 this am and I should have locked it in then but didn't and as soon as I started vaping it sumped back to .28 seems to be something about if it is that close it goes back to the resistance it previously had.

Hmmm strange

My first bash on this mini was a dual coil ss316 in the billow v2 nano

Came in at 0.18 .... vaped poor, left it for an hour dropped to 0.16 and has been vaping like a champ at 420f for two weeks

Vapour dropped off a bit yesterday so rewicked after dry burning and like new again
 
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2legsshrt

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I might put these in my Vapocolypse stash. They would be great for that. Kepp using my 3 SXM's and if they ever go TU I have 2 more brand new ones and these 3 so I'll be able to use TC no matter what they do and keep using Ti. I was tempted to get some 24 from Vape Atomizer Mesh I think it would be really good. Their 26 other then being about 26.5 is @Quantum Mech I've been reading about what they are trying to do there and sounds just as bad as here. You should be in pretty good shape for the UK Vapocolypse. You've been building up a pretty good stash.
 

2legsshrt

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Hmmm strange

My first bash on this mini was a dual coil ss316 in the billow v2 nano

Came in at 0.18 .... vaped poor, left it for an hour dropped to 0.16 and has been vaping like a champ at 420f for two weeks

Vapour dropped off a bit yesterday so rewicked after dry burning and like new again
That is what is so weird about these how much a couple of hundredths of an ohm can make on these.
 
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Quantum Mech

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My mates VTC Mini

Andy.PNG


Positive lead from battery sled to board melted the solder joint when he was pushing 75w :eek:
 

Sptz

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I just did my first ss316l build on my Bellus. Single coil, 28awg, contact, vtc mini is reading 0.96ohms.

I'm getting a pretty weak vape out of this in TC. My last TC device was an sx mini (1st batch) and always had it working perfectly, I don't know what the deal is here to be honest.... I had a kanthal build before, same wicking and it was perfect, so its not like it isn't wicking correctly...

I did pulse the coil a tiny bit to make sure it was firing evenly, which was, and in TC it seems like it's firing a bit hard in the first half a second and then drops off dramatically

Hmmm
 

KenD

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No you misunderstood me , you said on a mech mod they would be the same and I was reminding you that there are no perfect mech mods. Mech mods have internal resistance, Springs, switches etc...
And as far as a perfect reading on amp draw goes, I'm fine with a basic ohms law calculator built into my mod. Heck I used to have to do it I'm my head or fiddle with an online calculator. The fact that it's not absolutely unequivocally unimpeachable in its accuracy doesn't bother me much. I'm a simple vaper and i like it like that. My only real complaint is the small size of some of the screen info. Not old eye friendly.....
Battery amp draw is what's important, and on a mech ohms law calculations work perfectly well for that. The voltage is the full battery charge and the resistance is that of the atty with coil. The resistance of the mod is negligible in that amp draw calculation. However, on a vw mod you need to distinguish between the amps at the atty and the amp draw at the battery. They are completely different. To give an example:

Atty at .8 ohms, single battery at 3.3v charge, mod set to 50w.

Amps at the atty: 7.91 (atty gets 6.32v)

Battery amp draw: 15.15 (that's with a 100% efficient mod, which don't exist. At a more realistic efficiency of 90% the drain is 16.84)

The battery drain varies depending on battery charge, from 13.23 at 4.2v to 17.36 at 3.2v.

On a much you'll naturally only get 22w (not accounting for battery sag) on that same setup, which amounts to 5.25 amps. On a 90% efficient vw mod the atty will see that 5.25 amps, but the battery drain will vary from 5.82 at 4.2v to 7.64 at 3.2v.

When a device shows the amps at the atty, as the Evic vtc mini does, you have no useful info. If you rely on it you might get into trouble. Let's take a hypothetical situation of that .8 ohm coil driven at 75w, battery drained to 3.2v. The vtc shows 9.7 amps so one might believe that a 10 amp battery is sufficient. BUT, the actual battery drain is 25-26 amps. Potentially a very bad situation. Sure, the battery sag means that you'll get a weak battery warning way before 3.2v, but I think I've proven my point anyway.


Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 
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KenD

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What about the evic vtc mini 20A cutoff? If the device has a 20 amp limit what's the point in having a 25A or 30A battery?

Any word on this? It's an Evic vtc mini thread...surely someone knows for a fact if the device has an amp limit and if that negates the point of having a larger battery rating than that? :)
They must have upped the amp limit with the update to 75w. Assuming a 94% efficiency, you can't reach more than 60w with a battery cutoff at 3.2v and a 20 amp limit. 75w requires 25 amps at that efficiency and cutoff.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 

DavidAmonettNashville

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Battery amp draw is what's important, and on a mech ohms law calculations work perfectly well for that. The voltage is the full battery charge and the resistance is that of the atty with coil. The resistance of the mod is negligible in that amp draw calculation. However, on a vw mod you need to distinguish between the amps at the atty and the amp draw at the battery. They are completely different. To give an example:

Atty at .8 ohms, single battery at 3.3v charge, mod set to 50w.

Amps at the atty: 7.91 (atty gets 6.32v)

Battery amp draw: 15.15 (that's with a 100% efficient mod, which don't exist. At a more realistic efficiency of 90% the drain is 16.84)

The battery drain varies depending on battery charge, from 13.23 at 4.2v to 17.36 at 3.2v.

On a much you'll naturally only get 22w (not accounting for battery sag) on that same setup, which amounts to 5.25 amps. On a 90% efficient vw mod the atty will see that 5.25 amps, but the battery drain will vary from 5.82 at 4.2v to 7.64 at 3.2v.

When a device shows the amps at the atty, as the Evic vtc mini does, you have no useful info. If you rely on it you might get into trouble. Let's take a hypothetical situation of that .8 ohm coil driven at 75w, battery drained to 3.2v. The vtc shows 9.7 amps so one might believe that a 10 amp battery is sufficient. BUT, the actual battery drain is 25-26 amps. Potentially a very bad situation. Sure, the battery sag means that you'll get a weak battery warning way before 3.2v, but I think I've proven my point anyway.


Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
Yep...
 
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