With my VTC Mini in 316 default, my temp is at around 420. I can get a TRC like 0100 to work w/316, but it requires a much higher temperature setting than when I use the default setting.
eVic-VT mini?
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And an actually useful amp meter that shows battery drain, please.Now you're trying to make me jealous. It's working.
I really hope that firmware v3.01 has that, along with a true resistance lock. If they add those 2 things I think most of the complaints about the VTC would disappear. It's still my favorite mod, but being able to adjust the watts up and down seems like a no brainer.
I usually have temp at 450 to 480, depending on which tank. With the tfv4's airflow, usually at 480 degrees. Subtank around 450.
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It's certainly a simpler calculation to code for, is it confirmed that it's not batt amps?
I just had a peek at mine... just over 9.5A peak, battery just under 3.9 unloaded. What's the sag?
Using 29w on a 0.28 dual.
That could put the result right in the ballpark.
While the atty amps should peak just over 10.
This is a poor setup for this test... they're just too close to one another.
It doesn't show the amps at the battery, unfortunately.
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In power mode, I came across a group that advocates 1ohm builds or above for your atomizers. They say it's unnecessary to be subohming using a vw mod like the evic and is much safer and will be less stress for the mod and battery. Specially if you just want to chuck clouds. Thoughts?
Nope. No thoughts. Thinking hurts my head.
But sub-ohm coils were originally to provide higher wattage on a mech mod, where you cannot control the wattage by the mod. You could only get a hotter vape and bigger clouds by reducing the resistance. That's not the case with a VV/VW mod. YMMV. Whatever.
I remember when 2.1 ohm cartos were "low resistance". Then came the 1.7 ohm "very low resistance" cartos. Times have changed. Everything without time has not changed.
I can get good taste and as much vapor as I want with everything from under .5 ohms to over 2 ohms. It all depends upon wattage, and airflow, and coil type, and juice mix, and, and. Other folks have different opinions. But they are wrong and I am right. Always.
What can I add to what Vaping Turtle has offered already? I guess in the simplest of ways, variable powered devices have allowed us to design our builds around much more important criteria than just resistance/power. We can build our individual devices the way we like to vape them, taking into consideration things like Heat Capacity & Flux, airflow, etc; while at the same time allowing us to vary power to bring out all the details in our e-liquids.
As for safety; almost all modern regulated mods provide plenty of safety as long as the atty build is within the specs of the device. Heck, most mods won't allow you to fire a build that is outside of spec. Resistance means far less than it used to.
Long Answer
For instance, take three geometrically identical coils (26g, 7/8 wrap, 3mm ⌀, 0.5mm spaced), wicked identically:
#1 is made from Kanthal A1, has a resistance of 1.1Ω, heat capacity of 41.1 and heat flux of 121 @ 15W.
#2 is made from SS430, has a resistance of 0.45Ω, heat capacity of 44.3 and heat flux of 122 @ 15W.
#3 is made from Gr1 Ti, has a resistance of 0.35Ω, heat capacity of 28.6 and heat flux of 123 at 15W.
At the same power level, all three would provide a similar vaping experience. The Ti would ramp up and cool down much more quickly, however (determined by heat capacity). The heat flux is basically static and dependent on geometry (surface area); vapor volume, density and warmth should be identical.
Let's look at just the first two coils, as the third must be vaped only in a TC mode. Both the KA1 and SS430 would vape almost identically at the same power level (with perhaps a difference in flavor that some vapers might notice). In the mechanical "old days", however, the KA1 would only run at 16W on a fresh battery, while the SS430 would run at 39.1W. That's a BIG difference that regulated mods have eliminated.
A regulated mod works on a "watts-in/watts-out" electrical basis. Meaning, the watts dissipated at the coil are the watts pulled from the battery, PLUS the efficiency loss of the chipset. For instance: You're vaping a regulated mod with 91% efficiency at 15W; 15+(15*.09)=16.35W pulled from the battery. We divide the watts pulled from the battery by it's current charge and we get amperage. On a freshly charged battery, 16.35/4.2=3.89 Amps. On a 3.3V battery, nearing cutoff, the same 16.35W pulls 4.95 Amps. (16.35/3.3=4.95)
Does the resistance of the coil make a difference in battery discharge rate? Most probably. Why? Because a manufacturer's efficiency rating of 91% is an average across it's entire operating range, while the chipset most likely has areas of highest and lowest efficiency; IE a sweet spot of 98% and a low point of 84% efficiencies. They average to 91%. If you've been vaping in the sweet spot and, with another build, you hit the low point, you will notice a significant drop in battery life. Admittedly, this is an extreme example. The problem is that manufacturers almost never chart the efficiency of the chipset across its entire operating range and simply give us the overall average. A mod might be more efficient at bucking than boosting. So at the same power level, a .5Ω coil might prove more efficient (and pull fewer amps at the battery) than a 1.3Ω coil. We just don't know.
Hope this helps!
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Nope. No thoughts. Thinking hurts my head.
...Times have changed. Everything without time has not changed.
Great... now my head hurts.
Great description but this one part is incorrect. Since the resistance of SS increases with heat it actually losses a lot of power as the temperature increases on a mech.
Other than that a wonderfully descriptive and informative post.
DOH! That's why we use it for TC... Thanks for catching that, f1vefour! It completely slipped my mind. Maybe I should have used NiCr60 for a better example...
The SS430 res would rise to 0.55Ω/32W @ 392F & 0.62Ω/28.45W @ 572F. I would think, if we were building correctly in a decent atty, that we would land around .58Ω/30.4W @ 469F, not quite double that of the KA1. This, of course, is not an exact science, since we can only control the air and liquid flow in the entire equation...
I definitely should have used NiCr60 for the original example.
A lot depends on the mod. Considering many regulated mods cannot reach their maximum wattage unless the coil resistance is less than 1 ohm, saying to always build 1 ohm or higher will reduce the "ceiling". That said, in power mode I used to build my coils between 1.2 and 1.5 ohms and never felt I was giving away any flavor or vapor production using power settings from 15-25 warts, depending on the atty, juice and mod I was using.
Evic VT mini arrived and threw a single-Coil built Bellus (Ti 26ga, 7/6 wrap, 2.38mm I.D. 0.28R) on it. Set for Ti, locked in the R, set Temp at my usual 480* F, and W at 22.5. Lit up & vaped OK but a tad lethargic in comparison to my other Mods. So, turned Watts to 24 and Temp to 500. Better but not quite "right". Left W at 24 and took Temp to 530*... Ah yes. There it is. Hit it all through a Movie ("The Visit"-FaREEKY) and it stayed steady & constant with no noticeable variance or waning. So far, impressed with the little devil. An apt replacement for a 25+ times too many dropped SubBox (R.I.Pieces).
Thanks to all here for your Posts and convincing me to pull the trigger on this.
Thanks to all here for your Posts and convincing me to pull the trigger on this.
Try a custom TCR setting of "0366" in one of the three "M" presets. That's the stream engine titanium TCR. I still use the built in Ti setting for some eliqiuds. The custom TCR keeps my Ti temps in the 470-480 range, as it's a bit hotter then whatever their TCR is set to. I leave my watts at 35 since it does NOT matter much, Ti reaches set temp at even less watts, more watts makes NO difference at all.
A "0700" custom TCR setting at approx 10 watts will allow for a low glow dry burn titanium wire, for testing and cleaning.
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If only I could explain myself like you. I knew what they are preaching does'nt make complete sense. For a follow up question if I may, what is worse for the battery or the evic, boosting or bucking? I tend to build so that my output voltage is around 3.6v. Is this a better practice?
Boosting requires a little voltage transformation, so it'll always be a little less efficient.
I don't think the losses are high enough for us to be terribly concerned about however.
Maybe in a multi-cell parallel, but I'd still doubt it.
I don't think the losses are high enough for us to be terribly concerned about however.
Maybe in a multi-cell parallel, but I'd still doubt it.
@VapingTurtle can speak to this as well. He's very familiar with TI's chipset performance. But yes, in general, building for the nominal charge of the battery should put you in a good place. If you're going to do that, however, you need an atty that fits your build as opposed to the other way around. You would also be building sub-ohm, just to get a decent vape, unless you're a true tootle puffer.
Those on ECF who know me, will attest that I am a safety first kind of vaper. I had never built below 0.5Ω. Then I built my first 26g Ni200 TC rig, at 0.08Ω. As long as you're not exceeding the specified maximum constant discharge of the battery, you'll be as safe as you can be. Also, stick with trusted brands of batteries; LG, Samsung, SONY, AW, etc. Don't overthink all this. It's not rocket science.
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As long as you are within the specs of the mod, the batteries- as long as they're able to safely handle the discharge amperage- will not be "hurt". "Good" batteries have been discussed in length already, use the search for more on them. And the mod has a board temperature cut-out point. Means if the board is ever driven too hard, it'll just not fire until it cools.
What is far worse for batteries is either over discharging or over charging them. They shouldn't be charged too fast either. Or shorted. As long as you're using a good charger (I like the Opus 3400 or 3100 v2.2- they are the same chargers), you'll be fine.
Ok so im gonna thread jack just a little bit
is anybody else as turned on by this as i am? Its a vtcmini powred squonk.
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