Isn't the problem limited to the Kanger STM and other attys with overly long 510s? Don't other attys screw all the way down securely?
eVic-VT mini?
- Thread starter Daisychainvaper
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It's awesome when people have the will, the skills, the tools and the materials to fix manufacturing or design flaws by themselves. It really is.
If I had the latter three I'd probably be able to muster the will as well, but as things stand I rely on the manufacturers to provide me stuff that works well out of the box in exchange for payment.
I'll just keep my eyes peeled for any news about a new revision or version and wait for proper reviews. The VTC Mini is a very nice design and close to perfect device for the masses and simply making sure that the 510 connector is standard and solid would make it so.
Maybe it's time manufacturers got together for a single 510 Connector Summit to fully standardize the standard once and for all so that one of these years all mods and atties would actually be compatible without unnecessary wobbles, stripped threads or stuck pins.
(Of course if the 510 design could be improved upon then why not agree upon that too)
If I had the latter three I'd probably be able to muster the will as well, but as things stand I rely on the manufacturers to provide me stuff that works well out of the box in exchange for payment.
I'll just keep my eyes peeled for any news about a new revision or version and wait for proper reviews. The VTC Mini is a very nice design and close to perfect device for the masses and simply making sure that the 510 connector is standard and solid would make it so.
Maybe it's time manufacturers got together for a single 510 Connector Summit to fully standardize the standard once and for all so that one of these years all mods and atties would actually be compatible without unnecessary wobbles, stripped threads or stuck pins.
(Of course if the 510 design could be improved upon then why not agree upon that too)
Note that Joyetech was the original designer of the 510 connector.
Indeed, in Phil's video you meet the guy that's responsible for this crap connection.
Originally it was fine on small cigalikes so calling it crap is a bit harsh, they also saw the need for different threading on larger atomizers hence the ego connection, also a Joyetech design. Why we still don't have a proper connecting method for 18+mm atomizers is crazy.
A connection with beefy threads that is fully sealed.
I've 'heard' of these, {P-3 connection}
but until I saw it in PBusardo's video didn't realize how cool it could be... (very robust)
looks to be nice, but what to do with all my old '510' if it caught on...
but until I saw it in PBusardo's video didn't realize how cool it could be... (very robust)
looks to be nice, but what to do with all my old '510' if it caught on...
The P3 is a open format AFAIK as they were hoping to standardize connections, the P3 allows for 510. It would be great to have something like this on all devices.I've 'heard' of these, {P-3 connection}
but until I saw it in PBusardo's video didn't realize how cool it could be... (very robust)
View attachment 538446
looks to be nice, but what to do with all my old '510' if it caught on...
They have adapters for P3 to 510 connections. Shouldn't be much of an issue. Alternately, tank and RDA manufacturers would only need to sell different atty bases. Some attys come with multiple decks already (3-post vs velocity style decks for example). It would be the same thing, only you with 510 or P3 connections.looks to be nice, but what to do with all my old '510' if it caught on...
Dropped my evic mini on the concrete today. Silicone case helped absorb the shock. Then the vtf4 mini hit. Glass held up but it started a slow leak at airflow inlets. Hope it's just the wick getting moved. Guess I'll find out after I tear it down and rewick. Fingers crossed.
HD
HD
So sorry to hear. Let us know how you made out with the wick.
I had a SS317L build at 0.74ohms working perfectly. Yesterday did a new coil at 0.71ohms, on power mode it detects fine, on TCR mode it detects 0.71 but immediately changes to 0.74 without asking for a new coil.... Is there a way to make it "forget" the old resistance? This is so stupid.... It's making it "overshoot" since its 0.3 higher than it should, which is quite a lot
Make sure the resistance isn't locked. Firing the VT a couple of times with no load should reset the resistance.
It's not locked, I never lock ane it's not working. I even took ouy like the battery for like 50 mins, put it back in, detects instantly 0.74 on TCR mode. Power mode is fine
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Does your atomizer wobble slightly when screwed on the top of your eVic-VTC Mini ?
As some of you may already know, the reason certain atty's wobble on the Mini is because the 510 connector on the atty is just too long for the Mini. The atty's 510 bottoms out before the bottom of the atty's base makes full contact with the top of the eVic Mini. You can see this by installing the atty and then looking for a small gap between the base of the atty and the top of the eVic Mini ... this creates the wobble.
You can fix this wooble by installing a shim (washer) around the 510 pin on the atty, but the REAL FIX is easy ...
Tear down your atty and pull the little 510 center pin completely out. Then get a file and grind down the outer threaded part of the atty's 510 connector so it's just slightly shorter. Be careful not to damage the threads on the atty's 510 connector.
Clean it, re-install the atty's 510 center pin, and your in business.
Note: the atty's 510 center pin will now stick out slightly further, but this is good because it will insure of a better electrical connection ... Also, the atty will now install tight up against the top of the iVic Mini with no wobble at all.
_____________________________
Red arrow points to area that needs to be ground down a little shorter. (obviously, make sure you remove that center pin first before doing any filing on it)
As some of you may already know, the reason certain atty's wobble on the Mini is because the 510 connector on the atty is just too long for the Mini. The atty's 510 bottoms out before the bottom of the atty's base makes full contact with the top of the eVic Mini. You can see this by installing the atty and then looking for a small gap between the base of the atty and the top of the eVic Mini ... this creates the wobble.
You can fix this wooble by installing a shim (washer) around the 510 pin on the atty, but the REAL FIX is easy ...
Tear down your atty and pull the little 510 center pin completely out. Then get a file and grind down the outer threaded part of the atty's 510 connector so it's just slightly shorter. Be careful not to damage the threads on the atty's 510 connector.
Clean it, re-install the atty's 510 center pin, and your in business.
Note: the atty's 510 center pin will now stick out slightly further, but this is good because it will insure of a better electrical connection ... Also, the atty will now install tight up against the top of the iVic Mini with no wobble at all.
_____________________________
Red arrow points to area that needs to be ground down a little shorter. (obviously, make sure you remove that center pin first before doing any filing on it)
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That seems to be a problem common to all the newer Joyetech/Wismec/Eleaf mods. I bypass it by putting on an atty with a radically different resistance, firing it once, then screwing in the atty that I actually want to use. Annoying for sure.
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Does anybody knows why i have only 35.8W in bypass mode? It's a mini with a cubis coil 0.5ss. I've heard it should go above the 75w in bypass. Is something wrong with mine?
Sorry, not trying to be a smart ..., but I am vaping for 2 weeks now so i'm kind of new to this. I ordered a Griffin and should arrive in a week or so. With Griffin will get higher?
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It has nothing to do with what kind of tank you have.
Get out of Bypass mode. Bypass mode is absolutely useless except to check the voltage of your battery. If you are using a Kanthal coil, put it in Wattage mode. Start at low wattage and bump it up until you are happy.
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