eVic-VT mini?
- Thread starter Daisychainvaper
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I THINK the "gist" of the reply is :
in my words - you can't just grab stuff and screw it together THEN ask why...
do a little research about what you're planning / attempting to use...
perhaps buy one of the ' all-in-one ' kits so to get familiar with what you want to do
be safe, invest a little time to study and KEEP ASKING, we wanna help
And, by the way, the Griffin is an advanced dual coil RTA which is likely inappropriate for a brand new vaper.
Been using my mini for 6 months now, still really happy with it, it survived some harsh conditions, lots of sand, salt and humidity every day, but just to be ready when the time comes i think i will order another one. Whats bothering me is that busardo was super excited about a new product from joyetech, and I'm pretty sure it wasn't about the new ego aio
Anyhow, what i wanted to ask was about SS with mini. Just recently got my first SS wire, build a standard, spaced, 3mm 5 wrap 26awg in my derringer. I'm mostly using aromamizer these days, so kinda lost the dripping feeling. Also using ni200 for almost a year, so i almost forgot about dry hits. Well got a proper one here.
My wire was supposed to be 316L ( fasttech. so hard to say if it really is, i guess ), so i set mini to SS mode, 210'C, 30ish watts. After this nasty surprise i checked whats going on and saw that the shown temperature never got over 160'C. I tried different TCR's, from 90-125, but wasn't really helpful. it would show higher temp, but still no real temp protection.
Later it would also throw me out of TC into power mode.
Then i've build my aromamizer with same wire, and exact same thing happening there. I'm ok-ish with it in power mode, as aromamizer is wicking really good, but i really got used to tc to be a good backup if the cotton would dry up for whatever reason.
So, any idea? Is there some settings to play with, or could it be just a bad wire? Still have some 304 to try out.
Anyhow, what i wanted to ask was about SS with mini. Just recently got my first SS wire, build a standard, spaced, 3mm 5 wrap 26awg in my derringer. I'm mostly using aromamizer these days, so kinda lost the dripping feeling. Also using ni200 for almost a year, so i almost forgot about dry hits. Well got a proper one here.
My wire was supposed to be 316L ( fasttech. so hard to say if it really is, i guess ), so i set mini to SS mode, 210'C, 30ish watts. After this nasty surprise i checked whats going on and saw that the shown temperature never got over 160'C. I tried different TCR's, from 90-125, but wasn't really helpful. it would show higher temp, but still no real temp protection.
Later it would also throw me out of TC into power mode.
Then i've build my aromamizer with same wire, and exact same thing happening there. I'm ok-ish with it in power mode, as aromamizer is wicking really good, but i really got used to tc to be a good backup if the cotton would dry up for whatever reason.
So, any idea? Is there some settings to play with, or could it be just a bad wire? Still have some 304 to try out.
Been using my mini for 6 months now, still really happy with it, it survived some harsh conditions, lots of sand, salt and humidity every day, but just to be ready when the time comes i think i will order another one. Whats bothering me is that busardo was super excited about a new product from joyetech, and I'm pretty sure it wasn't about the new ego aio
Anyhow, what i wanted to ask was about SS with mini. Just recently got my first SS wire, build a standard, spaced, 3mm 5 wrap 26awg in my derringer. I'm mostly using aromamizer these days, so kinda lost the dripping feeling. Also using ni200 for almost a year, so i almost forgot about dry hits. Well got a proper one here.
My wire was supposed to be 316L ( fasttech. so hard to say if it really is, i guess ), so i set mini to SS mode, 210'C, 30ish watts. After this nasty surprise i checked whats going on and saw that the shown temperature never got over 160'C. I tried different TCR's, from 90-125, but wasn't really helpful. it would show higher temp, but still no real temp protection.
Later it would also throw me out of TC into power mode.
Then i've build my aromamizer with same wire, and exact same thing happening there. I'm ok-ish with it in power mode, as aromamizer is wicking really good, but i really got used to tc to be a good backup if the cotton would dry up for whatever reason.
So, any idea? Is there some settings to play with, or could it be just a bad wire? Still have some 304 to try out.
Hmmm, good questions... I'm assuming that you've used TC wire on both these attys before without issue. The only thing I can recommend is making sure your terminations are very snug. SS is much harder than Ni200 and Ti. Maybe the screws need to bite the wire a bit more. Also go over all the electrical connections at the 510 and in the atty. Make sure they're clean and have good contact.
I'm sure others will have better thoughts than I.
With stainless steel the ohms actually increase quite a bit when heated, ohms law wont give you accurate information. In bypass you are basically using a protected mech, it just dumps the battery voltage. As stainless heats and the ohms climb you lose power, stainless should be used in wattage or temperature control mode.
If you want to use bypass you need to use kanthal.
Bypass is not useless, it provides perfect DC power therefore offering the smoothest vape possible. Or at least it should, I don't actually have the device but I have a device that offers bypass and it's smoother than wattage mode.
Been using my mini for 6 months now, still really happy with it, it survived some harsh conditions, lots of sand, salt and humidity every day, but just to be ready when the time comes i think i will order another one. Whats bothering me is that busardo was super excited about a new product from joyetech, and I'm pretty sure it wasn't about the new ego aio
Anyhow, what i wanted to ask was about SS with mini. Just recently got my first SS wire, build a standard, spaced, 3mm 5 wrap 26awg in my derringer. I'm mostly using aromamizer these days, so kinda lost the dripping feeling. Also using ni200 for almost a year, so i almost forgot about dry hits. Well got a proper one here.
My wire was supposed to be 316L ( fasttech. so hard to say if it really is, i guess ), so i set mini to SS mode, 210'C, 30ish watts. After this nasty surprise i checked whats going on and saw that the shown temperature never got over 160'C. I tried different TCR's, from 90-125, but wasn't really helpful. it would show higher temp, but still no real temp protection.
Later it would also throw me out of TC into power mode.
Then i've build my aromamizer with same wire, and exact same thing happening there. I'm ok-ish with it in power mode, as aromamizer is wicking really good, but i really got used to tc to be a good backup if the cotton would dry up for whatever reason.
So, any idea? Is there some settings to play with, or could it be just a bad wire? Still have some 304 to try out.
Is it possible that you fired it a couple of times warming the coil and increasing the resistance and then locked it? I assume having it for six months your familiar with all of that. Your temps are above my head as I use F not C. What are your coils ohms? Are they so high it's jumping into power mode?
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Lightning Vapes is now carrying 24-28g SS316L, in lengths from 25 to 1000 feet.
Stainless Steel Wire 316L
Stainless Steel Wire 316L
TC wire and expected vaping reaction in TC, VW and bypass modes:
I also think that using SS in bypass mode is fairly similar to TC mode as the coil will ramp/heat until a voltage/temperature equilibrium is reached.
- In TC mode the set wattage will be used to ramp the coil up to the set point. As the coil heats up, its resistance goes up. Once at the set point the MOD will regulate the output power to maintain the temperature set point. The vape ought to be consistent from start to finish.
- In VW mode the set wattage will be applied to the coil. As the coil heats up, its resistance goes up. Higher resistance equates to drawing less current and less power. The MOD will sense the reduced wattage load and increase the voltage output. The vape temperature will increase (exponentially?) until ether the maximum output voltage of the mod is reached or the user turns off the fire button.
- In Bypass mode the battery voltage is sent to the coil. As the coil heats up it will increase in resistance and draw less power. While the voltage will have a ramp down as the battery drains the coil temperature will reach a equilibrium with the applied voltage and remain approximately the same temperature. (and gradually ramp down as the battery drains)
I also think that using SS in bypass mode is fairly similar to TC mode as the coil will ramp/heat until a voltage/temperature equilibrium is reached.
I know the concept has been touted by some, but SS may not be the best choice.
Due to combinations of res per mass, heat capacity, heat flux... titanium seems to be at least semi self-regulating on a mech.
Haven't tried it or run the numbers, but that's the gist.
eta: Hey Oregon... NB/Coos here.
I know the concept has been touted by some, but SS may not be the best choice.
Due to combinations of res per mass, heat capacity, heat flux... titanium seems to be at least semi self-regulating on a mech.
Haven't tried it or run the numbers, but that's the gist.
eta: Hey Oregon... NB/Coos here.
I often use SS430 and Ti on my old tube mods in VV mode.
In VW mode there is no realtime sensing of the resistance, so the same voltage will always be applied to the coil according to the initial reading of the resistance and the selected wattage. You can test this with your VTC mini.
As the coil gets hotter, the resistance increases but the applied voltage remains the same thus resulting in a poor puff.
SS has a low TCR so the resistance doesnt change much as it gets so hotter so its not easy to feel this behaviour. Ni200 on the contrary has a high TCR and it will be easier to feel it.
In Bypass mode is even easier to feel it because the applied voltage drops as the battery drains.
Vw works great as well, but I agree. Why not use ss316 mode as it's possible.
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I guess I always assumed that there was real time resistance reading in Power mode on the VTC mini. A "chain vapor" would notice the vape getting hotter much like Kanthal in VW. The two mods I'd tested it on (not VTC mini) ramped the temperature up harder and faster than Kanthal in VW mode.
I've wound 1-2ohm SS430 coils and the effect was very noticeable. (on a SXminiM, as the VTC mini would not fire +1ohm in TC mode at the time) Enough so that I got a better vape in VV mode (on yet a different mod) then VW.
I highly doubt that the battery drain would be noticed during puffing or after a short series of puffs. Over a series of hours it would be very noticeable. Given that the VW does not have real time resistance updating VW would provide a more consistent vape from tank-full to tank-empty.
The ohms change quite a bit with SS430 as it heats up, less with 316/7 which is why the TCR is lower on 316/7.
Having a similar issue on the Mini. When I programme 316L according to Steam Engine, it never seems to get to the right temp and under fires. On the SS mode however it works great. Any ideas on why this might be?
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