eVic-VT mini?

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zeus01

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@zeus01 and @Jesse Wright as you can see James and Turtle stopped replying about this subject. There is no research to prove one way or another in the end for our applications so discussions and assumptions can go at exhausting lengths. The bottom line is that temp control was invented to never exceed vaping at temperatures above certain levels as well as to not allow dry burning. So if you want to disregard opinions of the makers of this technology and listen to basically anonymous and hobbyists opinions anyone is free to do so. However I have a feeling that a lot of the people doing this, not saying you specifically, might be quite disturbed when actual proof from research comes out that any kind of dry burning is worse than no dry burning so please when this happens don't say that no one advised you against dry burning before.

ah thats why!

sorry and i was just merely trying to learn,still new to the tc stuff,and i was back reading this thread hoping to learn,
i would have been happy to be corrected thou.
or was given atleast things to read up on.

i am not insisting on what i read,i was just saying that some people said its ok but if its not.then id be happy to oblige,

my apologies
 

Jesse Wright

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Sep 19, 2015
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@zeus01 and @Jesse Wright as you can see James and Turtle stopped replying about this subject. There is no research to prove one way or another in the end for our applications so discussions and assumptions can go at exhausting lengths. The bottom line is that temp control was developed to never exceed vaping at temperatures above certain levels as well as to not allow dry burning. So if you want to disregard opinions of the makers of this technology and listen to basically anonymous and hobbyists opinions anyone is free to do so. However I have a feeling that a lot of the people doing this, not saying you specifically, might be quite disturbed when actual proof from research comes out that any kind of dry burning is worse than no dry burning so please when this happens don't say that no one advised you against dry burning before.
My most recent post stated to stay in tc mode at around 500f. Not dry burning, warming so you can adjust. Staying below the temperatures in which it is created will not produce it, therefore is safe. In our applications these temps can be reached, but not if you take precautions. Trying to spread safety info and that is all. The fact is, people who want to tune their coils are going to. Let's at least allow them to do it safely, while warning them of possible dangers. But if you ask me slightly warming ti is probably safer than putting kanthal in a mech.
From wikipedia-
Titanium dioxide occurs in nature as the well-known minerals rutile, anatase and brookite, and additionally as two high pressure forms, amonoclinicbaddeleyite-like form and anorthorhombicα-PbO2-like form, both found recently at the Ries crater in Bavaria.[4][5] It is mainly sourced from ilmenite ore. This is the most widespread form of titanium dioxide-bearing ore around the world. Rutile is the next most abundant and contains around 98% titanium dioxide in the ore. The metastable anatase and brookite phases convert irreversibly to the equilibrium rutile phase upon heating above temperatures in the range 600–800 °C
More from wiki-
The most important oxide is TiO2, which exists in three important polymorphs; anatase,brookite, and rutile. All of these are white diamagnetic solids, although mineral samples can appear dark (see rutile). They adopt polymeric structures in which Ti is surrounded by six oxide ligands that link to other Ti centers.
 
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zeus01

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No apologizes needed. They are just advises to use caution until there will be consensus reached on the matter. This subject would not be discussed if there would not be any reason of concern. It is enough to indicate that further research is needed.

i do get that the whole vaping thing needs further research,even on ti etc.,
but i still have questions that no one either seem to bother to answer since is so noobish or stupid,

like on making coils,all the videos ive seen and guides ive read,
"dry fired" inorder to avoid hot legs.
6-7 watts low temps,doesnt even glow orange

and temps ,dry coils,.

any reference links would be appreciated.
 
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proteckt3d

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My most recent post stated to stay in tc mode at around 500f. Not dry burning, warming so you can adjust. Staying below the temperatures in which it is created will not produce it, therefore is safe. In our applications these temps can be reached, but not if you take precautions. Trying to spread safety info and that is all. The fact is, people who want to tune their coils are going to. Let's at least allow them to do it safely, while warning them of possible dangers. But if you ask me slightly warming ti is probably safer than putting kanthal in a mech.
From wikipedia-
Titanium dioxide occurs in nature as the well-known minerals rutile, anatase and brookite, and additionally as two high pressure forms, amonoclinicbaddeleyite-like form and anorthorhombicα-PbO2-like form, both found recently at the Ries crater in Bavaria.[4][5] It is mainly sourced from ilmenite ore. This is the most widespread form of titanium dioxide-bearing ore around the world. Rutile is the next most abundant and contains around 98% titanium dioxide in the ore. The metastable anatase and brookite phases convert irreversibly to the equilibrium rutile phase upon heating above temperatures in the range 600–800 °C

You may be right, Wright but I also know that 500f was allowed there with the assumption that it will be used while the coil has liquid feeding so there is already enough reason for debate as I see it
 
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Vapin Dave

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Just a quick word of warning, I would steer clear of VapeNW until they clean up their act. I placed an order from them last night and this morning there was a fraudulent charge on my card. I rarely use this card so the culprit is pretty clear.

P.S. They were also nice enough to include my password in the confirmation email. Steer clear.

I have ordered from them lots of times and never had a problem. They ship stuff on Saturdays and it gets to me super fast, plus they have some of the best prices on the net. I would not steer clear.
 

Jesse Wright

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Sep 19, 2015
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You may be right, Wright but I also know that 500f was allowed there in the assumption that it will be used while the coil has liquid feeding so there is already enough reason for debate as I see it
And debate we will as our end goal is the same. Safest tastiest and most pleasurable vape. Safest first. The facts on ti stay the same tho so heating to 4 or 500f while dry should allow fine tuning whilst avoiding any harmful dioxides. I believe producing anything harmful would be noticeable through taste and smell, as it is with kanthal. You can taste the difference of an old kanthal build and a new one, even w new wicks and juice in both. People are seeming to agree that ti gives one of the cleanest vapes they've tried, "dry burned" or not.
 
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proteckt3d

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i do get that the whole vaping thing needs further research,even on ti etc.,
but i still have questions that no one either seem to bother to answer since is so noobish or stupid,

like on making coils,all the videos ive seen and guides ive read,
"dry fired" inorder to avoid hot legs.
6-7 watts low temps,doesnt even glow orange

and temps ,dry coils,.

any reference links would be appreciated.

If you do make a spaced coil with normal length of legs it's impossible to get any kind of hot spots. Actually it is advised to also cover the legs of your coil with wick, not because of hot legs, but because they may heat more that the wire that is in contact with the wick and throw temp accuracy out of balance. You also waste power in the same time when you leave them cleared.

There is no reference to say that dry firing at 6-7 watts is safer than doing it at 4 watts or at 40 watts or not doing it at all. If anyone had it, it would have been already posted and known
 
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Jesse Wright

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Yes. But not with me :) I'm no expert in any of this, so I choose caution
And that's your choice and a good one at that. Not trying to debate just saying that there is as much info saying slightly warming coils is dangerous as there is saying not warming coils is not dangerous. None. So take your pick. Personally I prefer even heating for a more consistent reading and vape. You can accomplish this without warming at all. But to make sure, I will apply a little heat to get the job done the way I want it. No more heat than you will use while vaping, of course, just to be safe.
 

zeus01

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ok so slightly heating the coil id dangerous?
even for tuning your coils?

on a spaced coil,
there are times that even if you have the right lengths figured out there still chance sof hotlegs becuase of attys as well,
specially on a tripole

even before the time of cooton and silica wicks are popular,people like me have been doing spaced coils.long before contact coils and we know that without dry firing its hard to know if it will make hot legs opr not,
even with contact coils, initial fire will give you hotspots,


so lets not just say the safest but what is the most tolerable way of doing coils?

i dom like doing micor,contact coils because they are almost hard to mess up vs spaced coils one wrong pull on the wick will have it messed up.

any advices or guides.

thanks for entertaining this queries
i am sure i am not the only noob that is reading about this.

question on the dry coil thing
i dont seem to grasp the idea

this mod doesnt have that feature?>
i get the temp protection warning but my wick is still wet,
i just notice a weaker vape if i am going dry
am i the only one with this experience?>
 
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VapingTurtle

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Hi guys, just got my device today, it keeps showing "Protection" warning after I vaped for 10mins... Anyone knows how to fix it? thanks :)
Tell us about you setup... what kind of atty, what kind of wire, what kind of coil, what kind of wick? Did you lock the resistance when the coil was room temp?
 
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Jesse Wright

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Sep 19, 2015
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ok so slightly heating the coil id dangerous?
even for tuning your coils?

on a spaced coil,
there are times that even if you have the right lengths figured out there still chance sof hotlegs becuase of attys as well,
specially on a tripole

even before the time of cooton and silica wicks are popular,people like me have been doing spaced coils.long before contact coils and we know that without dry firing its hard to know if it will make hot legs opr not,
even with contact coils, initial fire will give you hotspots,


so lets not just say the safest but what is the most tolerable way of doing coils?

i dom like doing micor,contact coils because they are almost hard to mess up vs spaced coils one wrong pull on the wick will have it messed up.

any advices or guides.

thanks for entertaining this queries
i am sure i am not the only noob that is reading about this.

question on the dry coil thing
i dont seem to grasp the idea

this mod doesnt have that feature?>
i get the temp protection warning but my wick is still wet,
i just notice a weaker vape if i am going dry
am i the only one with this experience?>

He does a good job of explaining things and is in w the manufacturers of the wire brand although I do not know his position.

The dry coil thing and hitting temp protection. Some devices will warn you that there is no liquid on your wick and stop from firing when it senses that. Your device does not have this function, instead it will become weaker as to let you know when to add more. Your device will show temp protection when your temperature would normally go past what you have set, then it makes adjustments so that you do not, whether it is wet or not. That is also why it gets weaker when your wick dries out. Drier wick means the temp rises faster, which means less power needed to raise the temp = weaker vape/power output. The liquid usually hinders the temp from rising so fast so there is more power needed to accomplish the same temperature. There's many videos explaining tc in general. I hope this helps. If not youtube how does temp control work and they will break it down for you.
 

piggypinggy

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Tell us about you setup... what kind of atty, what kind of wire, what kind of coil, what kind of wick? Did you lock the resistance when the coil was room temp?
I've tried two set up and they don't didn't work...
1. RDA, 28g 7wraps, 0.16ohm (nickel wire)
2. RTA, 32g 16wraps x 2, 0.1ohm (nickel wire)
They both show protection warning on the screen, I use the exact same setting on my DNA 40 mod and it works perfect.
 

skyboxer1968

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Jan 28, 2015
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I've tried two set up and they don't didn't work...
1. RDA, 28g 7wraps, 0.16ohm (nickel wire)
2. RTA, 32g 16wraps x 2, 0.1ohm (nickel wire)
They both show protection warning on the screen, I use the exact same setting on my DNA 40 mod and it works perfect.
Do your atomizer a have an adjustable 510? I had the pin on mine out too far and it gave me all kinds of errors until I shortened it up.
 

eddiea

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Sep 8, 2014
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I thought about getting the black version but decided on the white one. (I have a black IPV D2 as well as the newer silver D2 which came with updated firmware V3). I bought my VTC Mini kit from ecig.com for $44.00 and received it yesterday. This mod has a nice pearl-like finish which seems durable. The display is bright and very clear...the best I've seen so far. Good size and form-factor...I prefer the size of single 18650 mods so the size is right and comfortable to hold. The ohm reader seems very accurate.

MY TWO WISHLIST ITEMS:
1. Temperature can only be adjusted in increments of 10, so this may be slightly disappointing for those like me who prefer more precise settings. Being able to change it using smaller increments would be a plus.

2. Changing the wattage in Temperature mode is a pain if you overshoot your desired setting because you cannot go lower (only higher) so you must go all the way up to 60W then it stops, then you must press the up/right button again to round-robin and start from 1W then go back up to your desired setting. This can get old quick if you switch tanks often like me. It might not be so bad if the speed of the increase was faster...it takes approx 17 seconds to go from 1W to 60W. I'd like to see a firmware upgrade to be able to adjust lower without going higher first...maybe something like two quick button presses on the left button to activate such a feature. (In Power mode there's no problem as expected.)

So far I've only tested it with my Velocity and Lil Boy RDAs (both with Ti builds) and both perform fine. On these two RDAs, it seems I get a slightly better vape on the IPV D2 using the exact same settings (on a .22ohm Ti coil @ 500F 25W) - although that can be countered by adjusting the VTC Mini's temperature (and watts if preferred) as necessary. Upgrading the firmware to v1.10 was a breeze...it now has real-time resistance which goes back to original resistance when done, and being able to see real-time battery amperage output is an interesting bonus as well. I haven't tried Ni mode because I prefer not to use Ni wire. I haven't tried the eGo One Mega tank yet but I probably will at some point after I buy some CLR heads later. I'm satisfied with The VTC Mini at this point. Solid performance and nice features.

7VHrXox.jpg
 

Lorenzo Morchio

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May 28, 2015
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I thought about getting the black version but decided on the white one. (I have a black IPV D2 as well as the newer silver D2 which came with updated firmware V3). I bought my VTC Mini kit from ecig.com for $44.00 and received it yesterday. This mod has a nice pearl-like finish which seems durable. The display is bright and very clear...the best I've seen so far. Good size and form-factor...I prefer the size of single 18650 mods so the size is right and comfortable to hold. The ohm reader seems very accurate.

MY TWO WISHLIST ITEMS:
1. Temperature can only be adjusted in increments of 10, so this may be slightly disappointing for those like me who prefer more precise settings. Being able to change it using smaller increments would be a plus.

2. Changing the wattage in Temperature mode is a pain if you overshoot your desired setting because you cannot go lower (only higher) so you must go all the way up to 60W then it stops, then you must press the up/right button again to round-robin and start from 1W then go back up to your desired setting. This can get old quick if you switch tanks often like me. It might not be so bad if the speed of the increase was faster...it takes approx 17 seconds to go from 1W to 60W. I'd like to see a firmware upgrade to be able to adjust lower without going higher first...maybe something like two quick button presses on the left button to activate such a feature. (In Power mode there's no problem as expected.)

So far I've only tested it with my Velocity and Lil Boy RDAs (both with Ti builds) and both perform fine. On these two RDAs, it seems I get a slightly better vape on the IPV D2 using the exact same settings (on a .22ohm Ti coil @ 500F 25W) - although that can be countered by adjusting the VTC Mini's temperature (and watts if preferred) as necessary. Upgrading the firmware to v1.10 was a breeze...it now has real-time resistance which goes back to original resistance when done, and being able to see real-time battery amperage output is an interesting bonus as well. I haven't tried Ni mode because I prefer not to use Ni wire. I haven't tried the eGo One Mega tank yet but I probably will at some point after I buy some CLR heads later. I'm satisfied with The VTC Mini at this point. Solid performance and nice features.

7VHrXox.jpg
I agree. Changing wattage in temp mode is a pain. I set the temperature according my taste and safety preference then I like to adjust the power to find the right amount of vapour. And this change from moment to moment and from tank to tank
 
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