I am using the evic vtc mini with the subtank mini with the OCC ni200 coils.(should be 0.15 ohms) When i go to fire the device the resistance reads 0.18 ohms and I barely get any vapor. If I unscrew the tank and unlock the resistance it reads 0.24 ohms and hits way better. But after sitting for a minute, it goes back to 0.18 and I have to unscrew again and press "new coil". From what I understand, the temp control changes based on how saturated the coil is. Any advice on getting it to read the correct resistance?
Evic vtc mini change in resistance
- Thread starter woodman23
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With Ni200 the way it guesses temperature is as the coil is used it heats up, that heat increases the resistance, and the mod calculates that change from the baseline initial cold resistance reading, ie cold the coil is 0.18ohms, after firing once the new reading is 0.24ohms, 0.06ohm differential coil temperature is approximately 30 to 50F over room temperature (example only). Knowing that now, seeing these fluxuations when the resistance is not locked in is natural on a lot of mods, your situation, it is a common problem with the Kanger ni200 coils acting funky on a lot of mods, the Evics are plagued by it. I'd suggest snugging the tank down a bit, not so tight it binds onto the Evic but enough, like 5 to 10 compass degrees further, this makes sure the pin of the tank and mod and pin of the tank and head are all in full contact and don't make an unstable connection when hot and cold (heat expansion and cold contraction) of these connections.
Try using a different tank. The VTC Mini's big brother, the evic VT, had the exact same problem with the Subtank. When I first got the evic VT, it had the exact same problem with using the Subtank with the OCC nickel coils. The coil resistance would "wander" and you would run into the same problem you are seeing with the evic VTC. Once I stopped using the Subtank and started using Atlantis tanks (and any other tank that use the Atlantis-style coils) the problem went away. The resistance stays rock solid and never varies.
The resistance on nickel coils will change when they heat up. When you take it off then put it back on, it thinks it is a new coil and the formula changes based on the new baseline resistance. That's why you lock the resistance when you put a coil on. I personally have found that I like to hit my coil for a few seconds to raise the temperature ever so slightly. Then I take it off and put it back on and the coil generally reads .02 or .03 higher than when I started and I lock it there. It just vapes better at that point.
There will be a slight change in resistance but if you lock it in there shouldn't be the possibility for that to happen?
I'm not a TC expert, but it is entirely normal for the coil reading to go up a little.
These are small numbers we are talking, so presumably if your mod thinks a 0.15 is 0.24 it's going to use more power to 'hit the math' so it's going to be stronger, temporarily.
Nothing odd here i.m.o. Lock in the resistance and don't worry.
These are small numbers we are talking, so presumably if your mod thinks a 0.15 is 0.24 it's going to use more power to 'hit the math' so it's going to be stronger, temporarily.
Nothing odd here i.m.o. Lock in the resistance and don't worry.
With the Subtank Mini, locking in the resistance on the mod does absolutely nothing. Back when I used the Subtank Mini with the Kanger nickel OCC's on the evic VT it would read a fresh coil at 0.15 ohms. You lock in the resistance, vape it a few times, and then anywhere from a few minutes to an hour later, the locked in resistance changes from 0.15 to 0.12. The mod warns you with the new coil/old coil message. If you tell it that it is an old coil, then the message pops up again. The message does not go away until you confirm that it is a new coil. Then the vape becomes very anemic. Removing the tank, and trying to trigger a reset of the resistance does nothing. This has only ever happened to me with the Subtank Mini. All my other tanks, Atlantis 1 and 2, Freemax Starre Pro, Triton, Tobeco Supertank Mini and TFV4 all works fine and the resistance stays rock solid. There will be some slight variation in resistance, but that usually comes when the coil has been used for quite some time and it starts getting gunked up and the resistance usually goes up, not down.
I have a nickel coil (measures at 0.15 ohms) in my TFV4 that I have been using for 4 weeks now and have gone through about 60 ml of juice and now it is registering as 0.17 ohms on my DNA200. Still vapes fine.
I fault the Subtank Mini and the design of the tank and coil. The connection at the bottom of the coil is smaller and more fragile (compared to the Atlantis-style coil) and the 510 pin in the bottom hardware floats on a rubber grommet which is softer and allows much more movement. I suspect that if you look at all of the complaints about the evic VT and the evic VTC mini "not working", the odds are that all those people with "malfunctioning" mods are all using the Kanger Subtank.
Sounds faulty mate all my non kangertech coils which I've built myself lock in just fine and never change
Mi hate kangertech coils there crqp can't even put the power through them which is recommended
I've had same resistance-drop issues with Kanger Ni200 factory coils on the iStick TC40W. I think there's just something weird with them. Self-built coils are fine.
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