EVOD head prototype mod for Billet Box only.

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Scubabatdan

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It is 4.1 mm, but that is to the outside with those little fins which give pretty easy. So 4mm would probably work.

Also, a bit more of an hour glass design would be gentle on the BB O-rings and yet give more juice. Like the Diver v2 Enzels (or however you spell it).

I got several things to post, but anxious to finish my DNA 30 box exterior. But the short of it is I drilled out the inside diameter of the chimney cup, which is soldered directly to the upper tube (gutted carto) and that took out the chimney all together. So then I drilled the inside of the tube with a larger diameter drill to chamfer the inside towards the hole. Works really well and will funnel all the juice back down. Only kicker is it really needs a horizontal coil instead of a vertical to catch the juice. Let me catch up and I will post some pics.

Ok so pretty much the same as the Kanger's, good to know. Will have a prototype done by tomorrow and will throw some pics up. A quick spin of a file should knock those fins off it it is too tight.
Dan
 
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Scubabatdan

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LOL, well that was fast.... :)
And no I don't have my ARO heads yet :)

IMG_1920_zpsd4d273be.jpg


IMG_1921_zps503c50f2.jpg


Dan
 

Big Screen D

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Dan,

So glad to see you working on this so we can get these made professionally...in all SS! The Billet Bridge is similar, but like you, I prefer cotton wicks, and micro coils both horizontal and vertical. Not sure that the Aspire heads that the Billet Bridge uses can be rebuilt. At least not easily like the ARO and Kanger heads.

Tube looks good now. The edge where the top tube mates to the stem is a smaller diameter so it passes through the o-ring with no contact I take it? Also, the bottom threaded piece will benefit greatly by having a nice bevel so it can pass through the o-rings nicely.

The assembly is always inserted from the top, and generally has to be pushed out from the top...so that it all stays together. I use a carto filler tool for this, so need to come up with a pusher tool. No biggie there.

Here is a link for the ARO heads: Smoktech ARO/Tumbler Coil head replacement - 2.0ohm - 5 pack

All the dimensions are the same as a Pro Tank head, except the flange is smaller and passes right through the tank opening. Better coils too IMO for those that prefer to just plug and play.

Here's a pic of one with the bottom bevel I'm talking about:
14884_273886159446771_4639790326363407050_n.jpg


BTW, I'm in for five of these if you can get them made up :)

Hey, we can get all fancy and complicated and make the bottom piece with adjustable air flo. Game? lol
 

Scubabatdan

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Dan,

So glad to see you working on this so we can get these made professionally...in all SS! The Billet Bridge is similar, but like you, I prefer cotton wicks, and micro coils both horizontal and vertical. Not sure that the Aspire heads that the Billet Bridge uses can be rebuilt. At least not easily like the ARO and Kanger heads.

Tube looks good now. The edge where the top tube mates to the stem is a smaller diameter so it passes through the o-ring with no contact I take it? Also, the bottom threaded piece will benefit greatly by having a nice bevel so it can pass through the o-rings nicely.

The assembly is always inserted from the top, and generally has to be pushed out from the top...so that it all stays together. I use a carto filler tool for this, so need to come up with a pusher tool. No biggie there.

Here is a link for the ARO heads: Smoktech ARO/Tumbler Coil head replacement - 2.0ohm - 5 pack

All the dimensions are the same as a Pro Tank head, except the flange is smaller and passes right through the tank opening. Better coils too IMO for those that prefer to just plug and play.

Here's a pic of one with the bottom bevel I'm talking about:
14884_273886159446771_4639790326363407050_n.jpg


BTW, I'm in for five of these if you can get them made up :)

Hey, we can get all fancy and complicated and make the bottom piece with adjustable air flo. Game? lol

Ahhhh I see what you mean on the bevel. Yes I have already designed the bottom piece, I can easily revise to add a bevel. Price for the two pieces is right at $13.00 I believe if I have 100 made of each. Will make one of the bottoms and post it. Shoot for production in a month.
Dan
 

mikeulon

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Ahhhh I see what you mean on the bevel. Yes I have already designed the bottom piece, I can easily revise to add a bevel. Price for the two pieces is right at $13.00 I believe if I have 100 made of each. Will make one of the bottoms and post it. Shoot for production in a month.
Dan

Count me in! Great work!
 

Scubabatdan

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Pm me your PayPal already!

LOL, I am getting all the dimension right on the prototype so when I have 100 made there are no problems. I will have the parts made and then run a co-op on these so it will be at cost to anyone interested and no one has to wait on parts. It will be a fast co-op with only 100 units available. I am shooting for the end of this month to order the parts, and it will take 22 days to have the parts made. But I will have the parts in hand before I run the co-op.

Dan
 

Scubabatdan

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Perfect! 10

You were on the money with the bevel, top insert was a breeze as the bottom of the tube bevel is smaller, so once it is past the first oring it drops through to the bottom and it is a 7mm push to insert the top and bottom at the same time. Removal is equally a breeze, I just push down from the top and it drops to the top bevel on the tube and comes right out.

Dan
 
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