I built up the pin of the Subtank's base to make it about that much longer with silver solder, maybe I can do the same for the RBA's pin (without soldering the air holes shut)I got it! Superglue a washer on the bottom.
dwcraig1, I have a lathe in the basement. Although I have to change gears (I mean physically) to cut threads and IDK if I could cut metric threads, as I never tried. And cutting all of those holes and all... and SS is a bear to cut... I wonder if I could make a pin the first time around without screwing it up? 
On the SXK RBA pin there is plenty of threads above the positive plate (where the air comes out) but on the authentic heads it is flush with the plate and the plate is quite thin.
I have a question regarding the name of a mod. It was popular 5 years or more ago. It took two 16340 batteries and was VV.
Reos mods used their boards to make VV Grands. Buzz box seems to come to mind, anyone remember?
Reos mods used their boards to make VV Grands. Buzz box seems to come to mind, anyone remember?
Haven't been able to keep up with the thread, things are hectic here. Just wanted to drop in on an observation from a post a day or two ago (?) on being able to set boost on a 60 via board button and without escribe. I did a quick test on my ZNA converted to a 60, the only way to set boost by the buttons was to first come out of any TC profile and enter into Watts, then I could change the boost setting. After changing the setting I connected to escribe and checked under my TC profiles and as I suspected, the boost under all the TC profiles remained unchanged. Now, I didn't think there was boost while in Watts mode so what the heck is going on? But maybe I'm wrong, I never used Watts once TC became available and never paid any attention to what the Evolv boards can or can't do in Watts. Just wanted to throw it out there, if your using TC and changing boost on the 60 via the buttons it's not changing anything once you go back to TC mode, unless I did something wrong or missed something.
I'll leave it to you guys to dig and discuss, doubt I'll see replies to this or be back soon unless things change for the better in the near future, my mind is on other things. Take care, I'll probably come back and catch up at some point.
I'll leave it to you guys to dig and discuss, doubt I'll see replies to this or be back soon unless things change for the better in the near future, my mind is on other things. Take care, I'll probably come back and catch up at some point.
No, you have everything right. You can only change boost from the mod in watts only. When did Evolv add boost for watts? I think it is only available only on the DNA60, 250, 75C, and 250C. If I am wrong, someone will jump on it.
There is a material file called Kanthal_A1_preheat.csv that has been floating around for a few years that also allows boost for watts. But what it does is to trick the DNA into thinking that Kanthal is a TC type.
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Well thanks a lot guys, you all had me confused with all this Kanger RBA thing, so I had to dig through all my junk.
I have both an SXK Set, and an Authentic set. And you are right, the pin on the SXK is longer?
BOTH have threads though.....with a removable ring...
But what the hell? I'm sure I've had the authentic setup in a boro? Then......from the bottom of the little blue Atmisique bag........the longer pin!
Solved!
I have both an SXK Set, and an Authentic set. And you are right, the pin on the SXK is longer?
BOTH have threads though.....with a removable ring...
But what the hell? I'm sure I've had the authentic setup in a boro? Then......from the bottom of the little blue Atmisique bag........the longer pin!
Solved!
The thing that bothers me is if the Kanger RBA and OCC both works in the Subtank, somehow it must deal with the shorter RBA pin? What the tank screws in deeper on the mod and pushes higher on the RBA?
look at the RBA on the bottom, where the o-ring is it is recessed on the RBA but not on the disposable head.
Oh if anybody was waiting for my first FreeMax Triple Mesh is go bad, it did 2 days ago. That was from 12/20/2018. So it made it 2 months and almost 100ml through it.
Got it: I guess it was a tube mod not a box mod.
VV Buzz Pro
VV Buzz Pro
You appear to be correct (I had to get it all out again, but it was easier this time).
Length from the top of the bridge to the base of the coil is identical (before the threads).
Length from the base of the coil to the bottom of the pin is significantly longer on the OCC? The o-ring on the RBA inset into a counterbore, but proud on the OCC? Are they relying on the o-ring to make up the difference?
Of course the o-ring won't help in the boro as it goes straight through that big hole in the bottom!
Beat me too it! I always ramble...
Yes that explains why it is longer. That's not an o-ring really, but a rubber insulator separating the two leads. But on the Kanger you screw in an OCC and it works. And if you screw in the RBA, it works. But the RBA is shorter.
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