So after accounting gyrations and border hopping, the last step was named 'Final Acceptance and Test' or the FAT line. Well the women got all bent out of shape cuz of the name. 1 month later it was renamed Final Integration and Test, the FIT line. Overnight life became calm again, as they slapped on our Maple Leaf and made in Canada sticker. 
Got an EScribe question pertaining to the C boards. In EScribe for each profile down there where you can lock the resistance there is a room temperature setting. Should that temperature be the same as device Monitor reports room temperature or actual room temperature when the resistance is sampled?
I had it on a different profile than I was using so I see that it matches EScribe but is about 3 degrees higher than real room temp.
I had it on a different profile than I was using so I see that it matches EScribe but is about 3 degrees higher than real room temp.
There seem to be people here who are experienced in soldering electrical parts.
I have purchased DNA75 boards and a squonk box to make my own and could use some help and advise. I am an old dolt and have never soldiered any thing in my life. I have plans to watch some youtube videos for technique. My question for you folks with experience is: what is a decent soldiering iron to get? I want to make the box with the DNA75 and plan some other minor stuff such as automobile electrical wiring.
Any opinions are welcome.
I have purchased DNA75 boards and a squonk box to make my own and could use some help and advise. I am an old dolt and have never soldiered any thing in my life. I have plans to watch some youtube videos for technique. My question for you folks with experience is: what is a decent soldiering iron to get? I want to make the box with the DNA75 and plan some other minor stuff such as automobile electrical wiring.
Any opinions are welcome.
I would assume E-Scribe would be more accurate? I would also think it could be a few degrees higher in the mod than actual room temp?
I can't see a few degrees making too much difference, unless the chip is constantly monitoring room temp? The temp cadges at least a few degrees thru out the day
I use a 25 watt Weller, pretty basic unit
Hacku seems to be a popular choice now a days Watching a few videos is a good idea, also a bit of practising on older electronics wouldn't hurt
It's not that hard, the "c" Chips have nice big solder pads, makes it easier
CMD-Ky I asked these very same questions about 6 months ago. Hakko and Weller are good names. We had a good convo about it here last year.
Evolv-ing Thread
Evolv-ing Thread
I still haven't grabbed a Hakko yet, the old Weller just wont die.
I'm kind of partial to the Hakko, temperature controlled, soldering stations. A little more expensive than a basic iron but the TC makes it a heck of a lot easier and the recovery time is almost instant, as in while you're soldering.
Some good rosin soldering paste/liquid is also pretty handy to insure a good joint. But keep in mind a little bit goes a long way so don't over use rosin. Quality solder is also a pre-requisite. Don't use stuff from Home Despot or Lows, look online in Amazon. Like steamer said, practice on some older electronics first. Practice tinning wire samples as well since a nicely tinned wire will cut the time needed to get a good joint.
Some good rosin soldering paste/liquid is also pretty handy to insure a good joint. But keep in mind a little bit goes a long way so don't over use rosin. Quality solder is also a pre-requisite. Don't use stuff from Home Despot or Lows, look online in Amazon. Like steamer said, practice on some older electronics first. Practice tinning wire samples as well since a nicely tinned wire will cut the time needed to get a good joint.
Anybody interested in a Hcigar VT Inbox Squonk Kit in red for $54.34 (shipped) at Gearbest? In 6 hours the price drops by another 4 bucks. But I don't think there will be any left by then. They only have 4 left between two warehouses.
I started to reply, but it was turning into a novel. But besides what everyone else said, I would practice on a PCB that is junk first. It doesn't matter, a cheap 4 buck battery charger or something just to practice on. Or maybe you have an old computer modem around. Like that is going to see some use soon.
I appreciate all of the advice, lord knows I need it. Going learn a new skill at 74, I hope this ole dog can learn a new trick.
I started to reply, but it was turning into a novel. But besides what everyone else said, I would practice on a PCB that is junk first. It doesn't matter, a cheap 4 buck battery charger or something just to practice on. Or maybe you have an old computer modem around. Like that is going to see some use soon.
If I can solder, anyone can solder! You'll get the "feel" for it if you practice first and shouldn't have any real problems.
Most important thing is to get the whole joint hot enough and do not move anything until after it has cooled and solidified. The joint should be shiny, if not it is a "cold" solder joint so touch it up again. Solder flows toward heat. Soldering irons will instantly burn you, God knows I've had plenty of those burns throughout the years.
Hmmm, maybe a tad too much coffee? I find seeing it properly is the hardest part for me now, but I cheat and use a binocular loupe! Now, if the darn board would stop shaking.....
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