Evolv-ing Thread

SlickWilly

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I would assume, and we all know what that can do, that little tweak is in the latest version of standard firmware by now.

Don't know, they have been slow at it in the past. I'd install it and see how it acts, you can always roll it back.
 

SlickWilly

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It would be neat if they had another temp sensor on a pigtail that you could stick to the battery or position it so the battery would contact it then in escribe set it to show the battery temp on the screen, maybe even flash the screen if it got to high.
 

Steamer861

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Don't know, they have been slow at it in the past. I'd install it and see how it acts, you can always roll it back.

Thanks for the heads up Willy :) I'm going to wait till it's officially available thru E-Scribe :)
Let some one else be the ginie-pig :D
 

awsum140

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OK, here's goes. In the spirit of what Steamer just said...

My ERM/DNA75 has had what I call performance problems since I built it. At first, I thought it was related to the battery sled. So, I've modified a battery sled to absolutely minimize voltage drop under load, heavy brass contacts, heavy beryllium spring, braided negative connection and 14 gauge leads. That didn't do a thing to fix the problem but sure did cut preheat sag down dramatically. It does still sag seriously under preheat, but it's been cut by about half and is expected.

Next step was a new chip but the result was the same. From there I moved to possible grounding problems. The screws are torqued as tight as I dare to torque an 0-80 machine screw into aluminum. I changed the 510 connector and added a set screw to further improve the ground there. Finally, I soldered a brass grounding lug to the aluminum body and that is wired to the negative output of the board. No improvement from all of this.

The basic symptom is that it will start with fine output. If it's left sitting for more than a few minutes the next time it's used the output is below tootle puff levels even though the settings and atomizer haven't changed. Looking at it in device monitor, when it fails there is no preheat going on, the live and cold resistances are identical, temperature shows 400F and power is throttled back to under ten watts. When it is operating normally, preheat shows up, temperature regulation works fine, cold resistance and live resistance are normal, power is at 30 watts and it vapes very nicely.

My workaround, to maintain temperature regulation, is to unscrew the atomizer, fire the device and get "check atomizer", screw the atomizer back on fire it and get "new coil", tell it "new coil" even though it's still the same coil and it works fine until the next time. I've swapped atomizers from other devices and they do exactly the same thing on the DNA75. The atomizer from the DNA75 works fine on the other devices, DNA200s and a DNA40. It also works fine in power mode which, to me, validates the mod as capable of performing properly.

At this point I've tried three different boards, three different battery sleds, two different 510 connectors and added, what I can only call, "extreme measures" grounding. I've put this thing together and taken it apart often enough to break the ribbon cable on the original screen. I even took the Aromamizer completely apart and checked that with no changes seen.

The basic settings are .018 ohm Ti coils, 30 watts, 50 watt preheat for 1 second running an LG HD2 battery.

Anyone else run in to this kind of behavior?

Any ideas? I'm fresh out of "try this" stuff.
 

SlickWilly

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Besides that 40% "anything vape related tax" they also passed a digital download tax. Killing two industries with just one, piddling, little tax bill. What a country!

I can see plenty of homes selling cheap soon in PA.
 

SlickWilly

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OK, here's goes. In the spirit of what Steamer just said...

My ERM/DNA75 has had what I call performance problems since I built it. At first, I thought it was related to the battery sled. So, I've modified a battery sled to absolutely minimize voltage drop under load, heavy brass contacts, heavy beryllium spring, braided negative connection and 14 gauge leads. That didn't do a thing to fix the problem but sure did cut preheat sag down dramatically. It does still sag seriously under preheat, but it's been cut by about half and is expected.

Next step was a new chip but the result was the same. From there I moved to possible grounding problems. The screws are torqued as tight as I dare to torque an 0-80 machine screw into aluminum. I changed the 510 connector and added a set screw to further improve the ground there. Finally, I soldered a brass grounding lug to the aluminum body and that is wired to the negative output of the board. No improvement from all of this.

The basic symptom is that it will start with fine output. If it's left sitting for more than a few minutes the next time it's used the output is below tootle puff levels even though the settings and atomizer haven't changed. Looking at it in device monitor, when it fails there is no preheat going on, the live and cold resistances are identical, temperature shows 400F and power is throttled back to under ten watts. When it is operating normally, preheat shows up, temperature regulation works fine, cold resistance and live resistance are normal, power is at 30 watts and it vapes very nicely.

My workaround, to maintain temperature regulation, is to unscrew the atomizer, fire the device and get "check atomizer", screw the atomizer back on fire it and get "new coil", tell it "new coil" even though it's still the same coil and it works fine until the next time. I've swapped atomizers from other devices and they do exactly the same thing on the DNA75. The atomizer from the DNA75 works fine on the other devices, DNA200s and a DNA40. It also works fine in power mode which, to me, validates the mod as capable of performing properly.

At this point I've tried three different boards, three different battery sleds, two different 510 connectors and added, what I can only call, "extreme measures" grounding. I've put this thing together and taken it apart often enough to break the ribbon cable on the original screen. I even took the Aromamizer completely apart and checked that with no changes seen.

The basic settings are .018 ohm Ti coils, 30 watts, 50 watt preheat for 1 second running an LG HD2 battery.

Anyone else run in to this kind of behavior?

Any ideas? I'm fresh out of "try this" stuff.

I have the same problem with prebuilt Ni200 coils in the Zephyrus. They are labeled .15 ohms, many are under down to .13. Any of them .16 or under give me the same trouble and that's with all my 200 and 75 mods. I use to do the same as you, pop the atty off and let the mod think it's a new coil, now when I get one under .16 I'll lock the ohms in at .16 and then it works fine. Shouldn't have to do that but like you I looked at everything else and this workaround is the best solution I've come up with.
 

awsum140

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I left out that I tried locking ohms and that didn't work, either. One thing I may try is using an FEV V3, single coil device so higher resistance is easy to do. I don't see .18 (excuse the typo earlier) as particularly low in todays world. I've checked mod resistance, multiple times, as well and it is solid.

I'm totally out of things to do and getting rather frustrated. It's like if it's left alone, it gets bored and forgets what it's supposed to do.
 

Tpat591

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OK, here's goes. In the spirit of what Steamer just said...

My ERM/DNA75 has had what I call performance problems since I built it. At first, I thought it was related to the battery sled. So, I've modified a battery sled to absolutely minimize voltage drop under load, heavy brass contacts, heavy beryllium spring, braided negative connection and 14 gauge leads. That didn't do a thing to fix the problem but sure did cut preheat sag down dramatically. It does still sag seriously under preheat, but it's been cut by about half and is expected.

Next step was a new chip but the result was the same. From there I moved to possible grounding problems. The screws are torqued as tight as I dare to torque an 0-80 machine screw into aluminum. I changed the 510 connector and added a set screw to further improve the ground there. Finally, I soldered a brass grounding lug to the aluminum body and that is wired to the negative output of the board. No improvement from all of this.

The basic symptom is that it will start with fine output. If it's left sitting for more than a few minutes the next time it's used the output is below tootle puff levels even though the settings and atomizer haven't changed. Looking at it in device monitor, when it fails there is no preheat going on, the live and cold resistances are identical, temperature shows 400F and power is throttled back to under ten watts. When it is operating normally, preheat shows up, temperature regulation works fine, cold resistance and live resistance are normal, power is at 30 watts and it vapes very nicely.

My workaround, to maintain temperature regulation, is to unscrew the atomizer, fire the device and get "check atomizer", screw the atomizer back on fire it and get "new coil", tell it "new coil" even though it's still the same coil and it works fine until the next time. I've swapped atomizers from other devices and they do exactly the same thing on the DNA75. The atomizer from the DNA75 works fine on the other devices, DNA200s and a DNA40. It also works fine in power mode which, to me, validates the mod as capable of performing properly.

At this point I've tried three different boards, three different battery sleds, two different 510 connectors and added, what I can only call, "extreme measures" grounding. I've put this thing together and taken it apart often enough to break the ribbon cable on the original screen. I even took the Aromamizer completely apart and checked that with no changes seen.

The basic settings are .018 ohm Ti coils, 30 watts, 50 watt preheat for 1 second running an LG HD2 battery.

Anyone else run in to this kind of behavior?

Any ideas? I'm fresh out of "try this" stuff.
As we have discussed before:
  • I believe that it is unlikely that you can have the same issues over 3 boards and have it be hardware related.
  • I believe you are unlikely to have made an inadvertent speed error 3 separate times in your build in the first place as you are very meticulous. You have since eliminated every single possible error you could possibly have made and gone above & beyond to improve every connection to solve this issue.
  • You are left with 2 conclusions:
    • Either all the boards you got are bad, all 1st run boards are bad, or there is a software/firmware glitch in the DNA75 and no one else has noticed it.
    • there are possibly bad sectors on the disk space on your computer used to load the firmware updates onto all three DNA75 boards you set up for this mod that were minor enough to not cause a checksum error message during the firmware update but enough to corrupt the code stored on the chips to cause them all to malfunction in the same manner.
  • I think you should do a chkdsk/f surface scan of your computer or tablet
  • I think you should remove Escribe from the computer or tablet and reinstall.
  • I think you should download this new early firmware flash Slick just told us about for the DNA75 & install it on your unit.
As you have said it is extremely unlikely that the scenario I proposed could occur. I agree completely, but it could explain how three separate boards can exhibit the same behavior when no other boards we bought in the coop have to date. I still think all it would take is a hour or so of your time to accomplish and since you have eliminated every other possibility, what do you have to lose by trying?

Worse comes to worse you could add this to the list of stuff you tried when you contact Evolv again. If Branden hears about this, and all you have done to correct it, I guarantee he will ask for you to send him the boards & mod so he can test them himself.
 
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Steamer861

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OK, here's goes. In the spirit of what Steamer just said...

My ERM/DNA75 has had what I call performance problems since I built it. At first, I thought it was related to the battery sled. So, I've modified a battery sled to absolutely minimize voltage drop under load, heavy brass contacts, heavy beryllium spring, braided negative connection and 14 gauge leads. That didn't do a thing to fix the problem but sure did cut preheat sag down dramatically. It does still sag seriously under preheat, but it's been cut by about half and is expected.

Next step was a new chip but the result was the same. From there I moved to possible grounding problems. The screws are torqued as tight as I dare to torque an 0-80 machine screw into aluminum. I changed the 510 connector and added a set screw to further improve the ground there. Finally, I soldered a brass grounding lug to the aluminum body and that is wired to the negative output of the board. No improvement from all of this.

The basic symptom is that it will start with fine output. If it's left sitting for more than a few minutes the next time it's used the output is below tootle puff levels even though the settings and atomizer haven't changed. Looking at it in device monitor, when it fails there is no preheat going on, the live and cold resistances are identical, temperature shows 400F and power is throttled back to under ten watts. When it is operating normally, preheat shows up, temperature regulation works fine, cold resistance and live resistance are normal, power is at 30 watts and it vapes very nicely.

My workaround, to maintain temperature regulation, is to unscrew the atomizer, fire the device and get "check atomizer", screw the atomizer back on fire it and get "new coil", tell it "new coil" even though it's still the same coil and it works fine until the next time. I've swapped atomizers from other devices and they do exactly the same thing on the DNA75. The atomizer from the DNA75 works fine on the other devices, DNA200s and a DNA40. It also works fine in power mode which, to me, validates the mod as capable of performing properly.

At this point I've tried three different boards, three different battery sleds, two different 510 connectors and added, what I can only call, "extreme measures" grounding. I've put this thing together and taken it apart often enough to break the ribbon cable on the original screen. I even took the Aromamizer completely apart and checked that with no changes seen.

The basic settings are .018 ohm Ti coils, 30 watts, 50 watt preheat for 1 second running an LG HD2 battery.

Anyone else run in to this kind of behavior?

Any ideas? I'm fresh out of "try this" stuff.

Sorry to hear your having all these issues :( My 2 75 watt boards have been on point except for the weak battery warning. I'm running down the batteries in them now one's down to 33% battery life remaining & no warning's yet :) My problems mite be solved just by lowering the soft cel cut off :) I really can't even call it a problem, cause they worked fine all along just the weak battery warning thing.
I'm running basically the exact same set up as you, same enclosure,chip,510,& modded Sled.
I'm running a K-F V5 & a Square X on them both, single coil Ti @ .24ish there working like a dream.
I would say your boards are Bad! God knows I had enough problems with DNA 200's.
It wouldn't surprise me one bit if the boards are the problem. did you contact Evolv? If so what did they say?
 

awsum140

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What I am curious to find out, or hear, is what happen if you do my "correction procedure", fire with now atomizer then fire with the atomizer and answer "new coil". I know how that behave for me, but I'm curious if other people find different results with DNA75s that are working properly.

Another thing I forgot to mention in my original post is that the firmware in all the boards was updated when they were first plugged in to the latest that shows in eScribe.

In terms of the eScribe and firmware itself, what I will do is try downloading the latest version and load it from another computer, just in case.

I just ran a test using an FEV V3, .35 ohm build. After it sat for a while, about an hour and a half, it displayed the same symptoms. I device monitor the live ohms are a straight line. Going through the reset dance made it show live ohms properly. I also wonder if the same things are visible to other people, or am I just lucky?
 

dwcraig1

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I have having zero problems with my SDNA75. It's as though I'm using a 200.
I have an Aromamizer that I'll put on and run to board a bit harder tonight.
I justdid the "correction procedure" using the same atty that was on it prior to removing it and firing and got no new coil message.
 

Tpat591

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What I am curious to find out, or hear, is what happen if you do my "correction procedure", fire with now atomizer then fire with the atomizer and answer "new coil". I know how that behave for me, but I'm curious if other people find different results with DNA75s that are working properly.

Another thing I forgot to mention in my original post is that the firmware in all the boards was updated when they were first plugged in to the latest that shows in eScribe.

In terms of the eScribe and firmware itself, what I will do is try downloading the latest version and load it from another computer, just in case.

I just ran a test using an FEV V3, .35 ohm build. After it sat for a while, about an hour and a half, it displayed the same symptoms. I device monitor the live ohms are a straight line. Going through the reset dance made it show live ohms properly. I also wonder if the same things are visible to other people, or am I just lucky?
The one DNA75 I have in operation has had no issues remembering the attys cold resistance or recalibrating that attys cold resistance after sleeping in ss316 mode.

I will set up an Aromamizer & test under more aggressive conditions w/ TiT1 to see if issues develop.
 

dwcraig1

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Here's my "test" screen shot.
Dual coiled Aromamizer, twisted 28 gauge SS430, 2.8 mm id, 60 watts/75 watts preheat.
13723889_1252752054749016_7483042875854467274_o.jpg

I'm using the newest firmware and LG HD2
I'll continue to add to this post as my test goes on.
Did reset atty procedure, it asked if a new coil, both were 0.15 Ω so I said no.
I have hit the weak battery (flashing battery symbol) battery is at 3.55 volts with no load on meter. Vaped 5 ml and got the whole way back home from work with it so it came out reasonable I guess.
Now on to the next ......
 
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dwcraig1

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Is any one having problems accessing evolv's support.....chitchat
Just checked with my son's phone, it works but not on WiFi
Never mind, the problem was on my end. Strange though that it was the only site that I couldn't access. Rebooted modem corrected it.
 
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Steamer861

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So finally the weak battery warning comes back @ 17% battery life remaining :)
Lowering the soft cell cut off did the trick :) I guess an 18650 is enough battery for 55 watt 3 second preheat :)
awsum140 I tried to remove the atty's hit the fire button & put them back on, funny thing mine don't prompt new coil?
They should! cause I cheat the resistance & set it .2 higher than actual, then lock it. To get that even better hit. My 200's all ways prompt new coil if un screwed & re screwed ??
hope you work it out, IMO it's the boards.
Off to the coal mines You's all have a good Day :)
 

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