I would assume, and we all know what that can do, that little tweak is in the latest version of standard firmware by now.
Don't know, they have been slow at it in the past. I'd install it and see how it acts, you can always roll it back.
I would assume, and we all know what that can do, that little tweak is in the latest version of standard firmware by now.
Don't know, they have been slow at it in the past. I'd install it and see how it acts, you can always roll it back.
Besides that 40% "anything vape related tax" they also passed a digital download tax. Killing two industries with just one, piddling, little tax bill. What a country!
OK, here's goes. In the spirit of what Steamer just said...
My ERM/DNA75 has had what I call performance problems since I built it. At first, I thought it was related to the battery sled. So, I've modified a battery sled to absolutely minimize voltage drop under load, heavy brass contacts, heavy beryllium spring, braided negative connection and 14 gauge leads. That didn't do a thing to fix the problem but sure did cut preheat sag down dramatically. It does still sag seriously under preheat, but it's been cut by about half and is expected.
Next step was a new chip but the result was the same. From there I moved to possible grounding problems. The screws are torqued as tight as I dare to torque an 0-80 machine screw into aluminum. I changed the 510 connector and added a set screw to further improve the ground there. Finally, I soldered a brass grounding lug to the aluminum body and that is wired to the negative output of the board. No improvement from all of this.
The basic symptom is that it will start with fine output. If it's left sitting for more than a few minutes the next time it's used the output is below tootle puff levels even though the settings and atomizer haven't changed. Looking at it in device monitor, when it fails there is no preheat going on, the live and cold resistances are identical, temperature shows 400F and power is throttled back to under ten watts. When it is operating normally, preheat shows up, temperature regulation works fine, cold resistance and live resistance are normal, power is at 30 watts and it vapes very nicely.
My workaround, to maintain temperature regulation, is to unscrew the atomizer, fire the device and get "check atomizer", screw the atomizer back on fire it and get "new coil", tell it "new coil" even though it's still the same coil and it works fine until the next time. I've swapped atomizers from other devices and they do exactly the same thing on the DNA75. The atomizer from the DNA75 works fine on the other devices, DNA200s and a DNA40. It also works fine in power mode which, to me, validates the mod as capable of performing properly.
At this point I've tried three different boards, three different battery sleds, two different 510 connectors and added, what I can only call, "extreme measures" grounding. I've put this thing together and taken it apart often enough to break the ribbon cable on the original screen. I even took the Aromamizer completely apart and checked that with no changes seen.
The basic settings are .018 ohm Ti coils, 30 watts, 50 watt preheat for 1 second running an LG HD2 battery.
Anyone else run in to this kind of behavior?
Any ideas? I'm fresh out of "try this" stuff.
As we have discussed before:OK, here's goes. In the spirit of what Steamer just said...
My ERM/DNA75 has had what I call performance problems since I built it. At first, I thought it was related to the battery sled. So, I've modified a battery sled to absolutely minimize voltage drop under load, heavy brass contacts, heavy beryllium spring, braided negative connection and 14 gauge leads. That didn't do a thing to fix the problem but sure did cut preheat sag down dramatically. It does still sag seriously under preheat, but it's been cut by about half and is expected.
Next step was a new chip but the result was the same. From there I moved to possible grounding problems. The screws are torqued as tight as I dare to torque an 0-80 machine screw into aluminum. I changed the 510 connector and added a set screw to further improve the ground there. Finally, I soldered a brass grounding lug to the aluminum body and that is wired to the negative output of the board. No improvement from all of this.
The basic symptom is that it will start with fine output. If it's left sitting for more than a few minutes the next time it's used the output is below tootle puff levels even though the settings and atomizer haven't changed. Looking at it in device monitor, when it fails there is no preheat going on, the live and cold resistances are identical, temperature shows 400F and power is throttled back to under ten watts. When it is operating normally, preheat shows up, temperature regulation works fine, cold resistance and live resistance are normal, power is at 30 watts and it vapes very nicely.
My workaround, to maintain temperature regulation, is to unscrew the atomizer, fire the device and get "check atomizer", screw the atomizer back on fire it and get "new coil", tell it "new coil" even though it's still the same coil and it works fine until the next time. I've swapped atomizers from other devices and they do exactly the same thing on the DNA75. The atomizer from the DNA75 works fine on the other devices, DNA200s and a DNA40. It also works fine in power mode which, to me, validates the mod as capable of performing properly.
At this point I've tried three different boards, three different battery sleds, two different 510 connectors and added, what I can only call, "extreme measures" grounding. I've put this thing together and taken it apart often enough to break the ribbon cable on the original screen. I even took the Aromamizer completely apart and checked that with no changes seen.
The basic settings are .018 ohm Ti coils, 30 watts, 50 watt preheat for 1 second running an LG HD2 battery.
Anyone else run in to this kind of behavior?
Any ideas? I'm fresh out of "try this" stuff.
OK, here's goes. In the spirit of what Steamer just said...
My ERM/DNA75 has had what I call performance problems since I built it. At first, I thought it was related to the battery sled. So, I've modified a battery sled to absolutely minimize voltage drop under load, heavy brass contacts, heavy beryllium spring, braided negative connection and 14 gauge leads. That didn't do a thing to fix the problem but sure did cut preheat sag down dramatically. It does still sag seriously under preheat, but it's been cut by about half and is expected.
Next step was a new chip but the result was the same. From there I moved to possible grounding problems. The screws are torqued as tight as I dare to torque an 0-80 machine screw into aluminum. I changed the 510 connector and added a set screw to further improve the ground there. Finally, I soldered a brass grounding lug to the aluminum body and that is wired to the negative output of the board. No improvement from all of this.
The basic symptom is that it will start with fine output. If it's left sitting for more than a few minutes the next time it's used the output is below tootle puff levels even though the settings and atomizer haven't changed. Looking at it in device monitor, when it fails there is no preheat going on, the live and cold resistances are identical, temperature shows 400F and power is throttled back to under ten watts. When it is operating normally, preheat shows up, temperature regulation works fine, cold resistance and live resistance are normal, power is at 30 watts and it vapes very nicely.
My workaround, to maintain temperature regulation, is to unscrew the atomizer, fire the device and get "check atomizer", screw the atomizer back on fire it and get "new coil", tell it "new coil" even though it's still the same coil and it works fine until the next time. I've swapped atomizers from other devices and they do exactly the same thing on the DNA75. The atomizer from the DNA75 works fine on the other devices, DNA200s and a DNA40. It also works fine in power mode which, to me, validates the mod as capable of performing properly.
At this point I've tried three different boards, three different battery sleds, two different 510 connectors and added, what I can only call, "extreme measures" grounding. I've put this thing together and taken it apart often enough to break the ribbon cable on the original screen. I even took the Aromamizer completely apart and checked that with no changes seen.
The basic settings are .018 ohm Ti coils, 30 watts, 50 watt preheat for 1 second running an LG HD2 battery.
Anyone else run in to this kind of behavior?
Any ideas? I'm fresh out of "try this" stuff.
The one DNA75 I have in operation has had no issues remembering the attys cold resistance or recalibrating that attys cold resistance after sleeping in ss316 mode.What I am curious to find out, or hear, is what happen if you do my "correction procedure", fire with now atomizer then fire with the atomizer and answer "new coil". I know how that behave for me, but I'm curious if other people find different results with DNA75s that are working properly.
Another thing I forgot to mention in my original post is that the firmware in all the boards was updated when they were first plugged in to the latest that shows in eScribe.
In terms of the eScribe and firmware itself, what I will do is try downloading the latest version and load it from another computer, just in case.
I just ran a test using an FEV V3, .35 ohm build. After it sat for a while, about an hour and a half, it displayed the same symptoms. I device monitor the live ohms are a straight line. Going through the reset dance made it show live ohms properly. I also wonder if the same things are visible to other people, or am I just lucky?
Should I just buy a Fullymax & rewire it? or is there a better choice?