Oh man! Be careful about cleaning your squonkers. After I drained all of the juice out of one and removed the RDA, I added some water to the squonk bottle and went to the bathroom sink and squeezed the bottle. Holy crap! A squonker squirts water way better than a squirt gun. 
Mental note: Use shower next time.
Mental note: Use shower next time.
Need some feedback from you guys and gals that use stainless, I'm not having much luck. For a week I've switched from Ni200 to SS 316L (wire from UD, Youde) using the profiles preloaded from Evolv in my DNA boards. When I start out cold I have to keep bumping the temperature setting to maintain the same vape, then after I let it set and return to room temp I have to lower the temp 40-50 deg F otherwise it will snap crackle, too hot, then once again I have to keep bumping the temp back up. I've been running for different attys with the stainless, all built the same way I always have with Ni200, never had this problem with nickle, what gives? Should I try a different curve for SS 316L from another source?
I swear all SS wires have different temp curves Willy. Even the same type like 316L can vary from manufacture to manufacture. And I like UD wire, so I like your choice. Although comparing with nickel, nickel is pretty cut and dry between manufactures since it is supposed to be 100% nickel and not a mix of alloys like SS.
Yes of course, load in another SS316L curve. Which one? Well it is pretty much pot luck trying that way. The SS curve is pretty straight and I think you can use a TCR to create your own and get it right much sooner.
Yes of course, load in another SS316L curve. Which one? Well it is pretty much pot luck trying that way. The SS curve is pretty straight and I think you can use a TCR to create your own and get it right much sooner.
Jaquith on the Evolv forums made profiles for UD SS wire, I usually run his V4 which is a little hotter than standard. (I likes em hot and greahesy)
SS316L Help
Looks like the files are long gone, I can upload the V4 later tonight when I get home.
I've been using Unkamen 28ga SS430 twisted (2 or 3 strands) and it is quite nice with the stock Steam-Engine SS430 profile. Zivipf SS works great too if you are looking for a new SS supplier, they have all sizes and types.
I side with Steamer, ditch the 316L and go to 430. I use unkamen 430 for the Mrs. and she loves it. Personally, I gave up on SS entirely and stick to Ti from Temco. Very predictable.
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Yo Troll,
So ya know DJLSB says the TCR should be 0.00092, S-E says 0.00088 here's what Jaquith used at various temps in his TFR.
Jaquith v4 decoded
Temp TCR
392F 0.00133
470F 0.00123
482F 0.001217
BUT, I don't think Willy's saying its weak, but inconsistent. It more sounds like he locked his ohms when it wasn't at ambient temp, or perhaps a contact coil with hot spots.
So ya know DJLSB says the TCR should be 0.00092, S-E says 0.00088 here's what Jaquith used at various temps in his TFR.
Jaquith v4 decoded
Temp TCR
392F 0.00133
470F 0.00123
482F 0.001217
BUT, I don't think Willy's saying its weak, but inconsistent. It more sounds like he locked his ohms when it wasn't at ambient temp, or perhaps a contact coil with hot spots.
I dunno...
SS430 or Replay mode works for me.
SS430 or Replay mode works for me.
Here's my builds, from an older post on the rayon thread
Here's how I trim my tails on the top leaving the tail on the bottom, first, I still consider myself as a newb, I'm no expert.
You'll see how I like to keep the fibers straight as I can as I fold under. I like to use a big sewing needle to fold the tail, then flip the needle over and use the eye to tuck the ends in place. You'll see how tight the tails are, they are inline with the posts, not sticking out. If I had trimmed on the bottom, when I fold the tails over the cut ends that makes the tails stick out father.
Here's how I trim my tails on the top leaving the tail on the bottom, first, I still consider myself as a newb, I'm no expert.
You'll see how I like to keep the fibers straight as I can as I fold under. I like to use a big sewing needle to fold the tail, then flip the needle over and use the eye to tuck the ends in place. You'll see how tight the tails are, they are inline with the posts, not sticking out. If I had trimmed on the bottom, when I fold the tails over the cut ends that makes the tails stick out father.
Good advice around here Willy, get some SS430 if you want to TC stainless. SS316 is my favorite wire for mechs though, hits hard when cold and settles in nice for the remainder of the pull.
Thanks guys, I'll pick up some SS430 on my next trip to the big city, until then I'll go back to my nickle. To me, this bumping up and down defeats the purpose of set it and forget it TC. Middle of last night I woke up, half awake, grabbed my beside mod, took a hit and snap crackle pop... holy s!!! Suddenly I was wide awake cussing....
It must be getting more popular if you can get some at a vape shop. None at my local vape shops. Last time I bought SS430 I got it from zivipf in Germany. I also got a spool of NiFe48 from them (called NiFe52 by everyone else). NiFe52 is my favorite TC wire. It winds easy, can be dryburned and seemingly lasts forever and a day. I run it in an Aromamizer that I use every day after work and will post a pic of the NiFe52 coils next time I rewick. They're over a year old!
Willie, I'd suggest ordering SS430 from unkamen, point and click rather than drive. I've bought two 200' rolls, so far, and they're both spotlessly clean and the stock TCR works perfectly with both rolls as well.
Ah, didn't think about availability, probably right, the one vape shop I go to told me they only sell to a slim margin of TC vapers so they probably won't have it. Come to think of it, the 316L I have was from a past online order, I'll just do an online order, I'm in no rush.
Remember Gplat? A buck a foot for ordinary welding wire. SS 316/317 is great in a mechanical but that's about the extent of it.
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