Evolv-ing Thread

Rossum

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Yeah, what rossum said, at some point an equilibrium will be reached in wattage mode, vv mode or on a mech mod. Wires that have a little tcr like ss316 are great for mechs. You get a little boost in power at first and then as the coil heats up the res rises and kind of automatically throttles back the power. Makes for much faster firing without getting too hot with the right build.
A positive TCR will affect (lower) the equilibrium point on a VV mod or on a mech, but the equilibrium point should very close regardless of material on a VW mod.

The large TCR isn't what makes nickel unusable on a VW, VV, or even a mech mod. The low resistivity is. This requires lower voltages at higher currents than most such mods are capable of.
 

tiburonfirst

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cigatron

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A positive TCR will affect (lower) the equilibrium point on a VV mod or on a mech, but the equilibrium point should very close regardless of material on a VW mod.

The large TCR isn't what makes nickel unusable on a VW, VV, or even a mech mod. The low resistivity is. This requires lower voltages at higher currents than most such mods are capable of.

Agreed, but I've tried Ti and NiFe52 in mechs and for me the intial power was too much due to the high tcr. Forget to drip or squonk and it's big trouble, Ni would be a flamethrower and yes, difficult to build at high enough res for mechs.
 

Rossum

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Agreed, but I've tried Ti and NiFe52 in mechs and for me the intial power was too much due to the high tcr.
But the initial power is determined by the cold build resistance. So just build higher. ;)

and yes, difficult to build at high enough res for mechs.
Yeah, should be pretty much impossible with nickel. Difficult with Ti, where the same built that gets me ~0.75Ω with Kanthal gets me ~0.25Ω with Ti. I've not looked at where other materials would end up.
 

BillW50

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The large TCR isn't what makes nickel unusable on a VW, VV, or even a mech mod. The low resistivity is. This requires lower voltages at higher currents than most such mods are capable of.
Naw... 1.5v @ 50A batteries are too hard to find (and heavy). There is a better way. 2 or 3 nickel coils in series. Now where did I put that build deck with the two extra isolated mounting posts at? :lol:
 
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mikepetro

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Lost Vape Orion 40W DNA Go AIO Kit | Pod System

This officially announces that the new DNA Go boards support "Replay". It gives more info about the mod, for example 40W features an internal 950mAh. I does appear to somewhat different firmware though as the betas had 4 power levels. Oh, and it is Escribe compatible.

One thing to be clear about though, while it supports "Replay", it does NOT support TC.

The board itself, regardless of what mods it shows up in, is called the "DNA Go".
 

awsum140

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The internet went down here yesterday at about 11AM. I kept hoping that after the heat of the day went away it would come back, but no such luck. So this morning I "cheated". The cable drop came in and went to a four-way splitter. The Comtrash rep I talked to said the signal level at the mode was low. So I put a two-way splitter at the cable, attached the internet modem drop to one port and the four-way splitter to the other port. TV and internet are working, again, but I have a feeling that the signal level is kind of on the marginal side for TV, the status light on the STBs keep flashing occasionally. I hope it holds until tomorrow when the Comtrash truck shows up. If not, I'm fresh out of quick fixes short of a broadband amplifier which I don't have.
 

awsum140

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A quick explanation of that splitter "cheat" I used.

The four-way splitter has a signal output -7.5dbm below the input level at each output port. I believe the two-way splitter has a -3dbm output level at each port. It's not marked, but that is typical for a two-way splitter. Net result, my internet signal level is up at least +3dbm, effectively doubled or more, while the TV signal is reduced by half or so. A trade off that seems to be working OK so far. No guarantees though, looks like we're about to get a fairly heavy thunderstorm, more water in a crappy connection, somewhere.
 

cigatron

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But the initial power is determined by the cold build resistance. So just build higher

I build for max heat on a mech, not initial power. Raising the cold build res would make the vape underpowered once things heated fully. SS316 is perfect, only a .03 ohms increase in res on my builds from cold to max heat (equilibrium heat). Have you tried SS316 on a mech yet rossum? It's magic, especially with fused claptons, aliens etc where slow ramp times are the norm. With those types of coils over-dripping or over-squonking typically produces a hot spitty vape until things heat up but when using SS316 you get that intial power increase which usually rockets the coil past the spitty phase very quickly.
 
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mikepetro

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Hey Mike, a buddy of mine is about to spend about 4k on a salt water aquarium for his new house... Is there any advice I should give him, anything you can think of for me to tell him?
Saltwater tanks cover a wide range with differing requirements depending on the livestock. If he is spending that kind of cash, I assume he knows what he is doing. Otherwise my best advice would be to decide what he wants to stock and then do his research on their habitat.
 

cigatron

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For those interested my SS316L mech mod builds are all on Peerless RDAs with AFC wide open. The builds are all identical:
26gx2/36g fused claptons, 3mm ID, 4/3 wraps. Cold res comes in at approx .09 ohms, hot res at approx .11 ohms. So I guess it only changes res from cold to hot by .02 ohms, not .03 ohms as previously stated. Anyway, if any of you like a cloudy tasty vape and have an rda that has really good airflow try the build. You never know, you might like it.

ETA: If anyone wants to try my DIY SS316L claptoned wire PM me. I'll send you some, I have plenty.
 

cigatron

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Saltwater tanks cover a wide range with differing requirements depending on the livestock. If he is spending that kind of cash, I assume he knows what he is doing. Otherwise my best advice would be to decide what he wants to stock and then do his research on their habitat.

Salt water tanks are beautiful when stocked nicely and cared for. Very strict cleaning and testing regimens though. I helped my Son in Law clean his giant tank filters once, it took almost two hours to get it to his satisfaction. Seems like he said filter cleaning had to be done every 2-3 weeks and all kinds of tests had to be performed on a weekly basis. Isn't there an easier way?
 
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SlickWilly

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The internet went down here yesterday at about 11AM. I kept hoping that after the heat of the day went away it would come back, but no such luck. So this morning I "cheated". The cable drop came in and went to a four-way splitter. The Comtrash rep I talked to said the signal level at the mode was low. So I put a two-way splitter at the cable, attached the internet modem drop to one port and the four-way splitter to the other port. TV and internet are working, again, but I have a feeling that the signal level is kind of on the marginal side for TV, the status light on the STBs keep flashing occasionally. I hope it holds until tomorrow when the Comtrash truck shows up. If not, I'm fresh out of quick fixes short of a broadband amplifier which I don't have.

When I had that same problem with rect, I mean spectrum, they boosted the signal while I was on the phone with them. During the call they have me do a speed test, they boosted the signal and had me run it again, it tripled the signal and got me by until a guy came out and ran a new line from the pole to the house, I'd call them and tell them the story, if spectrum can do that they should be able to.
 
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