OK, Evolv actually published this data publicly now.
OK, Evolv finally published this data publicly now about the spike of formaldehyde and Acetaldehyde spiking way up past safe levels starting around 470F-480F. Temperature Control is IMPORTANT folks!
Start about 6 minutes in:
12 min in he refers to Evolv's PMTA plan. Publicly acknowledging there is one!
OK, Evolv finally published this data publicly now about the spike of formaldehyde and Acetaldehyde spiking way up past safe levels starting around 470F-480F. Temperature Control is IMPORTANT folks!
Start about 6 minutes in:
12 min in he refers to Evolv's PMTA plan. Publicly acknowledging there is one!
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It's not leaking from the bottom. The jc ring and air flow ring are weeping.Don't be afraid to stuff a lot of cotton in them, they wont dry hit
I find with the Supreme's (all of them) You can put a lot more cotton in the juice well than most other atty'sBTW none of my Supreme's leak
Speaking if temp control I am pulling my hair out trying to keep 316L Tiemco stainless steel wire in temp control on every atty from my Aromamizers Wotofo Serpent Minis and 25 Minis, plus Wotofo Conquerers. I have tried everything from .7 down to .015. All contact coils from 2.0 to 3.0 mm. All single wire builds in 28 and 26 gauge dual coil builds. They either stay on temp control for just a short time then either go Temp Protect or straight to off, or never get into Temp control at all. Double and triple checked security of coils and that they are matched sets. Cleaned and polished the 510 connections no real help. Tried the same attys on 4 different DNA 200 devices. With no preheat punch. Just feeling like this wire ain't cutting it. I have tried Evolv's temp curve and steamengines temp curve. Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Sent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk
Well if it's not the wicking, The only thing left is the O Ring at the bottom of the tank.
The Supremes have been real good to me
Hope you get it sorted out.
Still like the V2s the best myself. But then again, I am weird and rather proud of it.....
The only real difference from the OG Mizer's to the Supremes is the top fill.
Performance wise there identical, Taking off the atty & the small fill holes is what lead me to the Supreme & thats why I like them better. Just a convenience thing really, not a performance thing.
I duuno, Iceman. I use Temco 316L in a few, different, atomizers...Aromamizer, Foggers, Bachelors and FEVs, on DNA75s and DNA200s with no problems. I use 3mm, 6-8 wrap coils, 26 or 28 gauge, depending on the atomizer and they are spaced coils. Everything stays in TC mode with no problems. I am using the stock TCR values that come preloaded on the DNA chipsets.
I'm gonna try re coiling my aromamizer with spaced coil and try a different rayon wicking technique.
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Hope it works for you. I keep waffling back and forth between SS and Ti and will probably use which ever one hits my fancy at the moment. I am wicking with Graham, too, by the way.
Anyone into vintage boats? I bought a CD off ebay some years ago that had vintage Johnson boat motor repair manuals for motors ranging from 1922 to 1964. I was never able to open the files on the CD because they were Mac files, something the guy never told me. Stumbled across the CD last night, finally I was able to find the right combination of shareware that let me extract then convert the files so I could open them in Windows, found there are a bunch of PDF files. There is a wealth of very hard to find information for someone who has an old Johnson motor, if anyone would like a copy of these files I'd be happy to share them.
I have seen some anomalies with 316Lss in general with temco being no exception. If you get the wire too hot while pulsing or dryburning the res increases and the tcr drops and it doesn't seem to matter whether it's contact or spaced coils. With contact coils you have to get the wire hotter than I like to develop an oxide layer to remove shorts so I use spaced coils for that reason. The exception is when I use ss core claptons where the wrap is kanthal; I wrap those contact because the kanthal will oxidize with lower heat. Either way I end up having to reset my base/cold res to the raised reading after the first couple of dry burns.
I use a manual tcr value of .00092 to run them all, spaced single wire and contact claptons but my temp settings range from 420°f to 520°f depending on which type of coil I use and how many wraps. I don't get why I have to run different temps to get the same heat from the various coils but it is what it is I guess.
Like @awsum140 I've been teetering between Ti and SS but I haven't experienced any other problems with SS. It seems to work ok in TC.
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I get that on the V1 and V2's, the inside of the chamber and chimney gets coated with juice then it runs back down and some makes it's way out the air holes, worse if it's tilted or laying on it's side. If they had drilled those holes at a downward angle I think it would have helped a lot.
There has to be an explanation? The jfc holds back the juice just above were your leaking from.
Good probability the juice is slipping thru there, or the tank isn't sealing in the vacuum properly?
These thing have a way of working them selves out
hopefully sooner than laterSimilar threads
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