Evolv-ing Thread

cigatron

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It does from an Air Flow point of view :) TBH I think I could make some improvements! For one an AFC ring to choose how much air, the slight angle on the Air flow holes, will not work as good as a tube set up like the pulse has.
Short tubes coming in on an angle closer to the coil, would not only get the air circulating better in the chamber they would also have less affect on the air leaving the atty! Last but not least a BF pin & a gapping hole in the bottom of the "second reservoir" :) So it can Squonk! Who drips any more? Any way!

Maybe I should get in touch with some China manufacture & come out with an improved version before He even releases the Original! :D J/K'ing

There are attys out there that do similar airflow. The ECO and Medusa RDA's have adj bottom and adj side airflow. When I set the coils for a glancing side and glancing bottom airflow it creates a similar swirl effect and the flavor is def much better than straight on. I don't set the coils for a straight on airflow in any of my attys. For side air only attys I set the coils high, for bottom air only I set the coils outboard if possible, inboard if not.
 

Steamer861

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There are attys out there that do similar airflow. The ECO and Medusa RDA's have adj bottom and adj side airflow. When I set the coils for a glancing side and glancing bottom airflow it creates a similar swirl effect and the flavor is def much better than straight on. I don't set the coils for a straight on airflow in any of my attys. For side air only attys I set the coils high, for bottom air only I set the coils outboard if possible, inboard if not.

I to am learning the way the Air flows is Very important!
I watched a video from our little "Wape" Buddy :D
He was explaining how the Air flow was working in the Pulse 24.
He said if the air glances off the bottom of the coil, then hits it self from both sides & rolls back up the chimney it would create a "Great Flavour" :)
He was Bang on! Thats how I have my Pulse 22's set up & they for me produce flavour like no other setup :)
 

artv61

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Any of you guys into bass fishing? I'm trying to tie a fluorocarbon leader onto my braid setup & the stupid fish keep pulling it off & running away with the whole thing in its mouth... I'm using the standard noose/put it throughthe noose/wrap it around 10 times/back through the noose & then pull it tight, knot that I've even used for saltwater fishing.
a dot of crazy glue used to work on the braid
 

MikeE3

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Good idea, just regular Krazy glue?

I like this for 'knot' glue, it cures almost instantly w/ UV light. Good sunlight is enough, but I carry a small UV pen light for cloudy days. Disclaimer: I've only used it with mono-to-mono knots.

316D51KsLkL._SX425_.jpg
 

kiba

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I'll try it, braid is so damn slippery.

Hey Willie it's time to swap out my filter & I was told by the guy who replaced our furnace & a/c that I shouldn't be using the expensive filters I have, that I should just use the mid-range ones, is that true?
 
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Seiggy

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Any of you guys into bass fishing? I'm trying to tie a fluorocarbon leader onto my braid setup & the stupid fish keep pulling it off & running away with the whole thing in its mouth... I'm using the standard noose/put it throughthe noose/wrap it around 10 times/back through the noose & then pull it tight, knot that I've even used for saltwater fishing.
Try an improved clinch knot. It's also possible that your fluorocarbon attached to your braided (black braided not nylon braided) is too small dia. If this is the case create a fluorocarbon leader of different dia. with the largest at your braided line. I used to fly fish and made my own leaders up to 12' in length down to small enough to tie to a 22-32 no see-um flies I used to tie. Now age has caused my eye to have problems with even seeing the leader right in front of my face. Had to give it up.... Another trick would be to use a needle and thread your fluorocarbon through the inside of your braided about 3"-4" and use the super glue as someone else mentioned along that 3"-4". Just random thoughts.
 

SlickWilly

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I'll try it, braid is so damn slippery.

Hey Willie it's time to swap out my filter & I was told by the guy who replaced our furnace & a/c that I shouldn't be using the expensive filters I have, that I should just use the mid-range ones, is that true?

I really don't know, I haven't had much experience with those filters. When I was helping my daughter with hers, I found one at Ace Hardware that you can take apart and rinse out, seems to work well. That's really the limit of my experience with them.
 

awsum140

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When I had forced air, I kept two of the washable filters in service, that way I always had a clean, dry, one to swap out as needed. I know they make all sorts of "high grade" filters but the basic idea seems to me, anyway, just to get out the lumps. If you want to go further, electrostatics may make a difference but are a PITA to maintain.
 

kiba

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Try an improved clinch knot. It's also possible that your fluorocarbon attached to your braided (black braided not nylon braided) is too small dia. If this is the case create a fluorocarbon leader of different dia. with the largest at your braided line. I used to fly fish and made my own leaders up to 12' in length down to small enough to tie to a 22-32 no see-um flies I used to tie. Now age has caused my eye to have problems with even seeing the leader right in front of my face. Had to give it up.... Another trick would be to use a needle and thread your fluorocarbon through the inside of your braided about 3"-4" and use the super glue as someone else mentioned along that 3"-4". Just random thoughts.
What size fluorocarbon should I be using? rn I've got 12 on there but I've also got 6 & 10 sitting around somewhere that I never used again bc I think it caused backlashes... Improved clinch knot is for the hook side right? So I'd have to do it with both ends of the leader?
When I had forced air, I kept two of the washable filters in service, that way I always had a clean, dry, one to swap out as needed. I know they make all sorts of "high grade" filters but the basic idea seems to me, anyway, just to get out the lumps. If you want to go further, electrostatics may make a difference but are a PITA to maintain.
I really don't know, I haven't had much experience with those filters. When I was helping my daughter with hers, I found one at Ace Hardware that you can take apart and rinse out, seems to work well. That's really the limit of my experience with them.
We have a bunch of the filters that the previous owner left us, they are the expensive kind that's meant to reduce allergens etc. but I was told by the tech that's not what they're meant for & the expensive ones strain the fan, thing is, there's a whole stack of them left.
 

awsum140

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I did have forced air years ago in another house. The problem with those allergen style filters is they introduce more restriction on the intake side. I'm not all that convinced, being the skeptic I am, that they accomplish anything constructive. The plain old ones are what the furnace/blower were designed to operate with. You could, actually, see a decrease in fuel consumption and an increase in air flow if you switch to a normal style filter.
 

CMD-Ky

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Agree, decrease the particulate size that gets through a filter requires increasing resistance to flow, unless the process is electronic..

I did have forced air years ago in another house. The problem with those allergen style filters is they introduce more restriction on the intake side. I'm not all that convinced, being the skeptic I am, that they accomplish anything constructive. The plain old ones are what the furnace/blower were designed to operate with. You could, actually, see a decrease in fuel consumption and an increase in air flow if you switch to a normal style filter.
 

CMD-Ky

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What size fluorocarbon should I be using? rn I've got 12 on there but I've also got 6 & 10 sitting around somewhere that I never used again bc I think it caused backlashes... Improved clinch knot is for the hook side right? So I'd have to do it with both ends of the leader? We have a bunch of the filters that the previous owner left us, they are the expensive kind that's meant to reduce allergens etc. but I was told by the tech that's not what they're meant for & the expensive ones strain the fan, thing is, there's a whole stack of them left.

A new motor is more expensive that the savings derived from using the free filters, a motor can run $300 or more.
 

tiburonfirst

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The problem with those allergen style filters is they introduce more restriction on the intake side.
my guy just told me the same thing 2 weeks ago :( guess i'll be going back to the run-of-the-mill filters (heat pump)
 

kiba

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I did have forced air years ago in another house. The problem with those allergen style filters is they introduce more restriction on the intake side. I'm not all that convinced, being the skeptic I am, that they accomplish anything constructive. The plain old ones are what the furnace/blower were designed to operate with. You could, actually, see a decrease in fuel consumption and an increase in air flow if you switch to a normal style filter.
Agree, decrease the particulate size that gets through a filter requires increasing resistance to flow, unless the process is electronic..
my guy just told me the same thing 2 weeks ago :( guess i'll be going back to the run-of-the-mill filters (heat pump)
So he was right then? & I should be using the mid-range ones & the spendy allergens ones don't actually do anything?
I have a pretty blue light in my AC unit :)
I have that too, what is that? I have yet to figure out what it is but I turned it off for the time being via a switch in line behind it, bc it's using up lot of electricity... Is it ionic? I thought it was an ionic filter but I was told by a neighbor that it's not.. It's behind a hepa filter mount (I also took that out) so I figured that's what it was. That part is in the hvac area which goes through the fire damper & into the ventilation...
 
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awsum140

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Even the basic grade should be fine. The objective being to remove large dust particles but not get down to the "nano" level. The blue light, should actually be purple/blue, is probably an ionic or ultraviolet source. Again, how much they actually improve things is something I've always questioned. If you get enough ultraviolet going the air will always smell like it does in the immediate area after a lightning strike or around a high voltage source that might be arcing. A true electrostatic filter can get a lot of things out of the air a physical filter simply can't and doesn't introduce additional resistance to air flow, at least not enough to talk about.
 
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