Yes it does. You will probably need pliers though, its really on there tight. Of course something in between so you won't scratch it. Although it is pretty hard to scratch SS.
And I got it off and did use pliers....and Gorilla duct tape. SXK didn't see fit to put an o-ring there but I did, it will give it something to tighten against so not to be so tight next time.
I'm pretty good about checking the post screws while I'm in there, and they are always tight.
But not this time, one was super loose...fixed now.
But not this time, one was super loose...fixed now.
Wow! Are these really nice! And yes, the threading is the same on my SXK BB. Also no condensation yet and resistance is really solid (just finger tight). The bottom is completely flat. I was curious what that end looked like since I couldn't find any pics of that end. And since it is flat, there is nothing sticking down the chimney which requires a lot of turns on the stock key before the tank is free. Not these, just one 180° turn and the tank just falls out. The only con I have is they are really stubby. Only 10mm tall on top of the BB. I need to get some more of these.Fix For SXK RBA and Kanger Bridge Coming Apart, Maybe
I've been looking at BB drip tips for awhile now. Atmistique and Ohman Bmods has the BB Key built into the drip tip. And Etsy BB drip tips keys into the existing BB Key. All very nice and very tempting.
Although JMK Tips also has their BB drip tips which also has the BB Key built in. And oddly, unlike everything else, doesn't use an o-ring. Why? They explain within their BB Rev3 drip tips description (you need their BB Rev4 tips for Rev 4 of course):
They do not include an o-ring at the base. This is due to the fact that the o-ring always causes the Kangeroo and Siluro tubes to get pulled out when removing the stock brass ring, which makes it a bigger hassle to refill the tank. No leaking has occurred, even with daily usage.
Hmm interesting. I'm giving them a try. They claim they work with SXK BB too when I contacted them.
View attachment 802561
Damn you @Wayneo... I've had the B2K V4 & V5 in a cart twice now, would love to have the media blasted SS & anodized Black top caps but then there would be another 7 spare caps to add to the 6 that I don't use now. 
If anyone is looking for a beater mech squonker, that Pulse BF for $5 is perfect. There is a bit of a voltage drop but it makes a great workshop squonk.
If anyone is looking for a beater mech squonker, that Pulse BF for $5 is perfect. There is a bit of a voltage drop but it makes a great workshop squonk.
All the talk of Supreme Lite made me dig mine out of the box, looks and works great on the Cthulhu mod. Dual 3mm 26ga N80 coils (0.3Ω) for 58W on a fresh 18650 is a nice vape without too much ramp up, closer to 0.2Ω would be better but I would have to go down in gauge. The single coil deck for it might be an option, but I've yet to find an acceptable single coil mech build that is warm enough for me.
Horrible Kindle pic with no depth of field...
Horrible Kindle pic with no depth of field...
You have to love the "researcher" and his reaction. His objectivity is assured.
All the talk of Supreme Lite made me dig mine out of the box, looks and works great on the Cthulhu mod. Dual 3mm 26ga N80 coils (0.3Ω) for 58W on a fresh 18650 is a nice vape without too much ramp up, closer to 0.2Ω would be better but I would have to go down in gauge. The single coil deck for it might be an option, but I've yet to find an acceptable single coil mech build that is warm enough for me.
View attachment 803803
Horrible Kindle pic with no depth of field...
The lite is a great vape IMO, I had them on my Silo 1300's for ever, before all these single coil options came around.
The single coil deck is on FT now for less than SC is selling it! $8.51 how could you resist adding it to the next order?
A nice little Ni80 clapton will get you down around .2 in single coil
This place is enabler central...The lite is a great vape IMO, I had them on my Silo 1300's for ever, before all these single coil options came around.
The single coil deck is on FT now for less than SC is selling it! $8.51 how could you resist adding it to the next order?
Do not buy these JMK Tips to use with the SXK RBA (Kanger style)!Wow! Are these really nice! And yes, the threading is the same on my SXK BB. Also no condensation yet and resistance is really solid (just finger tight). The bottom is completely flat. I was curious what that end looked like since I couldn't find any pics of that end. And since it is flat, there is nothing sticking down the chimney which requires a lot of turns on the stock key before the tank is free. Not these, just one 180° turn and the tank just falls out. The only con I have is they are really stubby. Only 10mm tall on top of the BB. I need to get some more of these.
I just tried it and the RBA and bridge is much shorter. As I thought since with the Kanger Bridge (uses OCC heads) and the Exocet, the JMK Tips where screwing in far enough to hit the stop. They do not! They stop by hitting the chimney.
Using the SXK RBA, the JMK Tip screws in much farther. And now I believe the JMK Tip is hitting to stop. But it still isn't tight enough. Resistance jumps around all over.
I need to find a little copper shim stock that can be slid under the BB atty for better contact on short attys.
Those old Mad Vapes circuit board 510 spacers would have been perfect but they are not available anymore.
It was a round piece of PCB with a pad on each side and a via connecting them, you put in in the 510 hole then screwed the atty down. They were a Provari and Kayfun users best friend.
Look how much shorter it is. It is at least a quarter more turn on the key to go that far.
Wouldn't it be easier to just solder a small blob on the bottom of the shorter atty's?
Seems like you could just rough it up a bit with sand paper & add a blob
Both ideas will add length overall. But that 510 collar that screws on the bottom of the RBA 510 base is just barely gripping on the tank's o-ring. So if you lift the RBA in the slightest, you're going to have a huge leak. I am so surprised it is holding right now as it is. I suppose you could unscrew the collar a bit, but it still might leak.Wouldn't it be easier to just solder a small blob on the bottom of the shorter atty's?
Seems like you could just rough it up a bit with sand paper & add a blob
Well I was just mainly putting this out there for information purposes. While I have good experiences with Kanger Subtank RBAs, I also have lots of other choices for the BB that will vape as well or better anyway. I just thought with these JMK Tips, that using the SXK RBA would be a piece of cake. But these RBAs has 3 other serious problems when using them in a Boro anyway.
If the RBA is all I had to use with the BB, I could chuck this JMK Tip in my lathe and take away some of the thread stop. In fact, I could take it off completely so there would be no stop at all.
Both ideas will add length overall. But that 510 collar that screws on the bottom of the RBA 510 base is just barely gripping on the tank's o-ring. So if you lift the RBA in the slightest, you're going to have a huge leak. I am so surprised it is holding right now as it is. I suppose you could unscrew the collar a bit, but it still might leak.
Well I was just mainly putting this out there for information purposes. While I have good experiences with Kanger Subtank RBAs, I also have lots of other choices for the BB that will vape as well or better anyway. I just thought with these JMK Tips, that using the SXK RBA would be a piece of cake. But these RBAs has 3 other serious problems when using them in a Boro anyway.
If the RBA is all I had to use with the BB, I could chuck this JMK Tip in my lathe and take away some of the thread stop. In fact, I could take it off completely so there would be no stop at all.
It actually works Bill
I added a blob of solder to my SXK Exocet witch was short & not giving a good solid connection in TC. It is now working with out leaking & giving a solid resistance with my Ohman Tip You can see in the pic the blob has raised the exocet & gave me that extra meat I needed up top to make a solid connection
You can also see it has raised the atty a bit in the Boro, but not enough to cause any issues
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