Explain Temperature Control

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Wingsfan0310

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First off, you have to use wire that is compatible with TC. I think the sig has settings for Ni200 (pure Nickel) and Ti1 (grade 1 Titanium).

Temperature Control is really temperature limiting. The mod will vary power to keep it at the temperature you set. Joules are basically the same as watts for this purpose. The joules you set will control how fast the mod will ramp up to the temperature you set, once there the mod will vary the power to keep you there. That's just a quick rundown. Hope it helps.

Cheers,
Steve
 
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Nikea Tiber

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Watts x seconds = joules.

Temp control works by using a resistance wire for the coil that does not have a stable resistance over its temperature range. As pure nickel, titanium (as well as some alloys of stainless steel) heat their resistance changes in a predictable manner.
A tc mod will actively measure the resistance of an atomizer coil as it is fired, and compare it to the resistance the atomizer had when it was first detected by the mod. Based on this information, if you are using the wire material your mod is expecting, it will be able to make an accurate estimation of the wire's temperature based off the measured resistance change.
 

J Wo

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Watts x seconds = joules.

Temp control works by using a resistance wire for the coil that does not have a stable resistance over its temperature range. As pure nickel, titanium (as well as some alloys of stainless steel) heat their resistance changes in a predictable manner.
A tc mod will actively measure the resistance of an atomizer coil as it is fired, and compare it to the resistance the atomizer had when it was first detected by the mod. Based on this information, if you are using the wire material your mod is expecting, it will be able to make an accurate estimation of the wire's temperature based off the measured resistance change.

"I knew it, my mod is smarter than me". That was actually really helpful. I like how you explained that Nikea.
 
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Dylang919

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I would like to know what the average temp. Set up should be on any given temp control device. I have a kanger sub tank mini that I'm running with the vertical NI200 coils reading at .19 on all my devices. I also have a Uwell Crown tank with NI200 that's sitting at .18 on all my devices. I always read people saying that they set their NI200 coils between 400 and 450, some even say 360 or 370. I get no vapor at all in the 300's and 400 to 450 is too low also. I don't understand. Am I doing something wrong? I have mine set between 480 and 510 running them both at about 35 watts and the vape is still cooler than I like. you guys please explain to me what I can do differently, thanks!!
 

Wingsfan0310

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Is your mod hitting temperature protect (that just means it's reached your set temperature). If not try bumping up the watts a touch.

Cheers
Steve

W
Edit To answer your question I have mine set at 450F usually. That's my preference because I don't like a really hot vape. Temperature controls how hot your vape will be. Watts controls how fast it will get there. Once there, the mod will throttle back the power to keep you there, at least in theory ;)
 
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Wingsfan0310

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What mod are you using? If it's not warm enough Vape, try raising the temperature and watts up a little at a time until you find what you like. It's all personal preference. What I may find appealing, you might think is a cold, anemic vape. I asked what mod because some are known to either run on the hot or cool side.

Cheers,
Steve
 

greasegizzard

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I run mine around 510 at 40-45 watts. I'm using an iStick TC60W and a Melo 2 with the .15 ohm Ni200 cool it came with. Do you have your initial resistance locked while it was at room temp? I just played around with the temp and watts until I found what I liked. As long as you're in TC mode for Ni, you don't really have to worry about needing anything up, so you experiment with it.
 
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Dylang919

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What mod are you using? If it's not warm enough Vape, try raising the temperature and watts up a little at a time until you find what you like. It's all personal preference. What I may find appealing, you might think is a cold, anemic vape. I asked what mod because some are known to either run on the hot or cool side.

Cheers,
Steve
I've been using my snow wolf 200 v1.5, my ipv 3li, and my wismec rx 200. All around 480 to 500 degrees
 

Dylang919

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Good catch on locking the resistance. I forgot to mention it because I've been using DNA200 mods for awhile and you don't have to with them. It was the kiss of death if you didn't lock resistance (room temperature coil) in with the IPV3 Li.

Cheers,
Steve
I do. I lock the resistance on a cold coil always. As long as 480 to 500 is ok and not going to cause any problems, I guess I'm ok right?
 

greasegizzard

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Good catch on locking the resistance. I forgot to mention it because I've been using DNA200 mods for awhile and you don't have to with them. It was the kiss of death if you didn't lock resistance (room temperature coil) in with the IPV3 Li.

Cheers,
Steve

I don't know why they don't make all the mods just automatically lock when in temp mode, with the ability to change it if you wish.
 

Wingsfan0310

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I do. I lock the resistance on a cold coil always. As long as 480 to 500 is ok and not going to cause any problems, I guess I'm ok right?
I don't see why it wouldn't be ok, heck you can go up to 600f with most TC mods. Now if you're that high it won't pass a dry cotton test, but the key word is dry. You would know your tank is empty by lack of vapor long before you completely dried out your cotton.

Cheers,
Steve
 

Dylang919

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I don't see why it wouldn't be ok, heck you can go up to 600f with most TC mods. Now if you're that high it won't pass a dry cotton test, but the key word is dry. You would know your tank is empty by lack of vapor long before you completely dried out your cotton.

Cheers,
Steve

I always thought that you were supposed to keep the temp around 400 to 420 though, because of the dry burn test. I guess when the cotton is saturated, then the dry burn temp doesn't mean anything correct? Or, am I not understanding something here?
 

Dylang919

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That's the way I look at it. To me a dry burn test is a way to test your mod to make sure it's not running hot. I don't think in the real world (wet, damp, moist cotton) it really matters.

Cheers,
Steve

Well, that's good to know then. So.....do the ohms effect where you would set your temperature at? I've notied that if the coil is reading like a .16, .17, that I have to set the temp higher than a .21, or .22.
 

Wingsfan0310

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As long as it's a room temperature reading, it shouldn't matter. The mod takes the room temperature resistance, locks that in to memory. It then calculates temperature off resistance increase. Depending on the material the coils is made out of, it knows that x amount of resistance increase is y amount of temperature increase.

Edit. With my IPV3 Li, I just locked it in when it was cool (room temperature). If you try to do it again after firing it (warm coil), it will read a higher resistance thus throwing off your temperature.
 

Dylang919

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As long as it's a room temperature reading, it shouldn't matter. The mod takes the room temperature resistance, locks that in to memory. It then calculates temperature off resistance increase. Depending on the material the coils is made out of, it knows that x amount of resistance increase is y amount of temperature increase.

Edit. With my IPV3 Li, I just locked it in when it was cool (room temperature). If you try to do it again after firing it (warm coil), it will read a higher resistance thus throwing off your temperature.

Yeah totally. I absolutely always lock in the resistance. But the kanger NI200 coils seem like I can always run them around 425 degrees. I lock them cold usually around 2.2 though. The package says .15 on the verticals, but I've never had one read that low. My Crown however, always reads .15 or .16 and I always have to jack the temp up to around 480, 500 degrees. I don't understand that??
 
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