No problem, here to help when I can. You all help me even though I'm quiet in the background a lot. 
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...and I hope they're all suitably grateful for that!
Seriously, hope you're enjoying it
...and I hope they're all suitably grateful for that!
Seriously, hope you're enjoying it
It's nice and small, maybe even a bit too small for my hands. I think the vaporshark is more comfortable to hold because it's slightly bigger, it's also less slippery because the rDNA 40 has that slightly rubbery finish.
The battery cover on mine moves around a little but it's not going to fall off so that's ok really.
If I had no idea that 0.1% or whatever melt then I'd say it was a nice little mod. I like the bright screen and it seems to read resistance pretty well (I trust my dna 40 more and the cloupor is reading the same coil 0.03 - 0.05 higher which is no big deal).
Shall just have to be more careful with leaving it unattended with the battery in but I think it'll stay as my take to work device for the moment. Might wait for pbusardo reviews on the 50w istick and that smok xpro m65 to see the numbers and get one of those as well. This cloupor only cost me ~£25 so it won't be the greatest loss ever if I don't use it as much as I thought I would when I bought it.
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Kayfun 4 : built the same way as I normally build Kayfuns, but was getting dry hits,turns out these don't like the wick sitting on the deck, they have to be cut a touch shorter so that they only just brush the deck and have to be pushed back against the back
All my tanks get hot at the bottom 4th of the tank....don't think it's the brands, just tanks in general....
Nice find Dave
The replaceable battery's a deal breaker for me, dont want to start messing with chargers and stuff
If the mvp v3 is only a tenner more I'll probably get that it's worth it for the peace of mind and knowing that I can still use my pt2's for convenience. Having said that I'm still made up with the dt50, even though I've never had it above 25 watts even when I was building dual coils, and I've not noticed it burning juices at low watts either.
I suppose I should get an inline volt meter to test it
Have you tried the dt50 at low watts Bob ?
Interesting. I'm always a bit perplexed when you see reviewers like pbusardo wick their tanks by just stuffing cotton down the chimney any old way. I started out trying it that way with a kayfun and I got flooding issues, but they must not. Since I tried this method of short wicks stuck against the side it works better for me.
Do you mean when they get 3/4 empty, if so that does happen, If you mean always and are talking of clearos, then the head might need changing, or you are vaping too high a wattage
No, mine has been mostly @ 30w because i had the Atlantis on top, at the moment it is sitting idle,
I don't have small hands (glove 7.5) but do love the size of the iStick. The Cloupor mini is a little bigger/chunkier and heavier, but not too much for me not to like it. My black one doesn't seem too slippery to hold.
It's made a perfect home for my Mint Choc Vapetto at 7.2W in a mini Nautilus!
Mine is hard to move/remove - only time I've felt any movement is if I've unwittingly squeezed it to tightly at the sides and can feel a little sideways movement, but very little. They seem to be very strong magnets.
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My iStick 30 arrived!
Tried moving the mega MOW with a 1.8ohm coil in it from the 20W to the new 30W ..no atomiser!
Put the adapter on and it fires OK (looks a bit silly though) but registers the coil as 2.1ohm! (set at 6.6W/3.7V) The 20W set at 5.0W/3.1V shows the coil as 2.0ohm.
Tried the mini Nautilus on it and that works without the adapter and registers the 1.8ohm coil correctly.
So, do I now need to try and lift the pin on this new 30W one as I would prefer using the mega MOW with it ?
Disappointing because I thought the new pin would eliminate this 'no atmoiser' problem!
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If you've been using the MOW for a while the coil could be gunked up and read a little bit higher
I dont think you can lift the spring loaded pins. Is the connector on the MOW proud of the housing, if not that could be your problem
It's looks like a pigs' dinner with the adapters on but sometimes needs must
It's something I notice with these Kanger Version 2 coils - and the doughnut one tends to need changing fairly regularly around 7-8 days. Checking now (I do keep a note to check on where I got the coils etc) I see it's a 2.0ohm coil and will be due for changing in a day or two anyway.
Still, this type of coil doesn't always register accurately on the iSticks ....or perhaps they aren't that accurate themselves
Oh! that's a shame
? Not quite sure what you mean by that.
Hmm! I only expect to do that with an Ego base tank - even though I know you're right: things don't always work as they should!
Comparing the two tanks, whilst the threaded part seems to be the same length on both, the mini Nautilus does have that little 'foot' on the base of the threaded part, and that no doubt gives it the ability to work properly on this battery in particular.
Not keen on changing them over though because I have a blue metallic tank with a deep blue drip tip that sits aesthetically beautifully on the blue iStick 30W - the mini Nautilus has a black drip tip that looks good with the glass/chrome sat on the black Cloupor.
.....I know
- but you wouldn't want to put a green bumper on a red car would you 
Not keen on changing them over though because I have a blue metallic tank with a deep blue drip tip that sits aesthetically beautifully on the blue iStick 30W - the mini Nautilus has a black drip tip that looks good with the glass/chrome sat on the black Cloupor.
.....I know
Blimey Trish,i thought i was bad ;-)
Know where you're coming from,it's got to look right.
It's something I notice with these Kanger Version 2 coils - and the doughnut one tends to need changing fairly regularly around 7-8 days. Checking now (I do keep a note to check on where I got the coils etc) I see it's a 2.0ohm coil and will be due for changing in a day or two anyway.
Still, this type of coil doesn't always register accurately on the iSticks ....or perhaps they aren't that accurate themselves
Oh! that's a shame
? Not quite sure what you mean by that.
Hmm! I only expect to do that with an Ego base tank - even though I know you're right: things don't always work as they should!
Comparing the two tanks, whilst the threaded part seems to be the same length on both, the mini Nautilus does have that little 'foot' on the base of the threaded part, and that no doubt gives it the ability to work properly on this battery in particular.
Not keen on changing them over though because I have a blue metallic tank with a deep blue drip tip that sits aesthetically beautifully on the blue iStick 30W - the mini Nautilus has a black drip tip that looks good with the glass/chrome sat on the black Cloupor.
.....I know
Trish, one thing that hasn`t been metioned with your MOW is, Try unscrewing the 510 pin a little, so it slightly protrudes from the base. You should get a better connection that way.
I never thought it would bother me to be honest! There again, I vowed I'd never get a mod - 'tis this lot ...they're 'enablers'
There has to be a reason they make these things in nice colours!Know where you're coming from,it's got to look right.
If they were all silver or black, it wouldn't matter one bit. In fact, I'd expect the quality control and performance to be a far more competitive field if aesthetics weren't involved so much!
You mean the threaded part on the base of the tank? ...it appears to be fixed.Trish, one thing that hasn`t been mentioned with your MOW is, Try unscrewing the 510 pin a little, so it slightly protrudes from the base. You should get a better connection that way.
I don't think the Aerotank is much different in construction, and it doesn't show that bottom thread to be a separate part - see image 4 on this page:
$20.76 Authentic Aerotank Clearomizer (2.5mL) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
In picture #4 of your link you will see a circular pin inside the 510 thread, this can get pushed in enough so that it doesn't make the right connection with the battery. In some attys it can be pulled out a bit so it makes a better connection
EDIT
Just checked, you can take the coil head out and pull the positive pin out of the rubber insulator just a bugs whisker
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Never mind - it was worth a try with the pliers!
The little round flat plate on the base of the threaded part? ...I did manage to lift that a mm, but as soon as I put it back onto the battery, it went back in again and still shows 'no atomiser'
The actual base of the coil? ...Yes, can see that it comes right out - mine just flew across the room! Soon found it though and I'll try it when I change the coil...see what happens. Surely though, if I can just pull it out with my fingers, it'll go back in again as soon as it meets the slightest resistance?
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