Its been awhile since I have build the kayfun for the provari. What are your guy's favorite setups and settings?
Sent using these stoopid hooves..
Sent using these stoopid hooves..
Favorite kayfun builds?
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I run a 1.5 ohm 28ga Kanthal microcoil at 3.4V with a 60/40 mix. Found that adding a doughnut of cotton wick around the coil at the top of the lower chimney eliminated dry hits on a full tank (20 rewicks and counting - Russian 91%).
Thanks for the reply. Thats pretty much the same coil I have tired 2 twice today. No matter how i try and wick this thing( more cotton, less cotton) I always get dry hits. I have a 28g micro @ 1.3ohms wrapped around a 5/64th bit 3.6v(may drop that a bit). that seemed to be the normal thing to do but I cannot get this contraption to not give me a dry hit after 2-3 puffs in a couple minutes.
I've been reminded today why I went back to dripping..
I've been reminded today why I went back to dripping..
I enjoy low power & I wrap everything for 3.7v (so I can use it on mechs just as easily. I like twisted 32g over a thicker wire. I wrap for the liquid, in the neighborhood of 2.2ohms - some like it a little higher, some a little lower, just depends on what's going in the tank. Organic cottonballs from the hippie grocery store for wicking. Never dry hits, but I use very, very little cotton.
If you're having problems with dry hits, these are the things I do to prevent them:
Line up all the fibers - I unroll the cottonball into the original size before it was rolled into a ball. I can get about 4 wicks across the width of it. When I'm working with the end of the ball, I'll carefully pull it even, fold it in half & repeat to make sure the fibers are running the same way.
Don't twist - It's not yarn, a spiral isn't going to help anything. I pinch the cotton down to shape it without any rotation of the fibers.
The dry wick shouldn't fill the inside of the coil. When I prime it with a little liquid it'll expand and almost touch all sides of the coil. Almost.
I clip the ends just barely long enough to touch the channels. I don't loop it to the side or lay it down on the deck or any of that stuff. I keep the ends as fluffy as absolutely possible & trim them so they just touch. If the ends of the wick look like a mad scientist stuck a fork in an electrical socket, I'm doing something right.
Hope there's something of value in there that might help you out.
If you're having problems with dry hits, these are the things I do to prevent them:
Line up all the fibers - I unroll the cottonball into the original size before it was rolled into a ball. I can get about 4 wicks across the width of it. When I'm working with the end of the ball, I'll carefully pull it even, fold it in half & repeat to make sure the fibers are running the same way.
Don't twist - It's not yarn, a spiral isn't going to help anything. I pinch the cotton down to shape it without any rotation of the fibers.
The dry wick shouldn't fill the inside of the coil. When I prime it with a little liquid it'll expand and almost touch all sides of the coil. Almost.
I clip the ends just barely long enough to touch the channels. I don't loop it to the side or lay it down on the deck or any of that stuff. I keep the ends as fluffy as absolutely possible & trim them so they just touch. If the ends of the wick look like a mad scientist stuck a fork in an electrical socket, I'm doing something right.
Hope there's something of value in there that might help you out.
With a 1.3 ohm coil, I'd start at 3 volts. Everyone builds differently. I don't scrimp on the amount of cotton I pull through the coil. I only twist the end, then pull it through. Comes out a lot fluffier than if you roll it first. I leave just a hair more than what's needed to touch the deck, fold it up (rabbit ear), and screw on the lower chimney. Then I push the cotton down the sides with a small flat blade screwdriver. Then I use the screwdriver to push the cotton up against the inside surface, so that I can feel metal if I insert the screwdriver all the way down. That way I know the juice channels are clear. Then I roll up a little cotton, and lay it around the coil on the inside of the chimney like a doughnut. It actually touches the wick in 2 places, and acts like a juice accumulator. Then I add 14 drops of juice, screw on the upper chimney, and put it all back together.
Take 2 drags when you vape on it. You build a vacuum in the tank, and the juice quits flowing in almost immediately. When you hit it twice, you get twice as much juice. Just take a short drag, open your mouth a little, then take a second drag that's as long as you like. I stay on the fire button the whole time.
If you're using the clear center tank section, only fill it to about halfway up the window with the tank inverted. More air in the tank means it takes longer to build a vacuum so you get more juice.
I played the more/less cotton games and watched just about every Kayfun video on youtube. Took a couple of months to figure out, but this is what works for me.
Some Kayfuns with large juice channels (newer EHPro is one) will flood with the cotton doughnut. I do everything else the same.
Good luck!
Take 2 drags when you vape on it. You build a vacuum in the tank, and the juice quits flowing in almost immediately. When you hit it twice, you get twice as much juice. Just take a short drag, open your mouth a little, then take a second drag that's as long as you like. I stay on the fire button the whole time.
If you're using the clear center tank section, only fill it to about halfway up the window with the tank inverted. More air in the tank means it takes longer to build a vacuum so you get more juice.
I played the more/less cotton games and watched just about every Kayfun video on youtube. Took a couple of months to figure out, but this is what works for me.
Some Kayfuns with large juice channels (newer EHPro is one) will flood with the cotton doughnut. I do everything else the same.
Good luck!
I use 26 or 28 ga Kanthal single microcoil build (2 mm precision screwdriver) for a 1.3 - 1.5 ohm. I've found less cotton/rayon works better than more for faster wicking.
I'm experimenting with the above mentioned "cotton nest" or ring of wick around the vapor chamber surrounding the coil/wick. It seems to help avoid dry hits -- be sure to leave room for airflow around the coil. Really saturate the cotton nest before assembling the tank completely. I occassionally prime the wick by blowing through the side air hole while chain vaping.
Rayon doesn't appear to leave burn marks like cotton does where it was in the coil when I do wick changes. I pulse dry-burn my coil between wick changes (every 3 - 4 days). Same coil used for about 6 weeks now.
Using lung hits with my re-drilled wide open rebuildable drip atomizers, it reminds me of just how tight the draw is on the Kayfun Lite Plus. It's still a great flavored vape, just not quite as enjoyable as the RDA's due to the restricted airflow. I'm not about to try to drill out a $100 tank and possibly break a drill bit in it.
cotton nest ring of cotton or rayon (synthetic cotton)
I'm experimenting with the above mentioned "cotton nest" or ring of wick around the vapor chamber surrounding the coil/wick. It seems to help avoid dry hits -- be sure to leave room for airflow around the coil. Really saturate the cotton nest before assembling the tank completely. I occassionally prime the wick by blowing through the side air hole while chain vaping.
Rayon doesn't appear to leave burn marks like cotton does where it was in the coil when I do wick changes. I pulse dry-burn my coil between wick changes (every 3 - 4 days). Same coil used for about 6 weeks now.
Using lung hits with my re-drilled wide open rebuildable drip atomizers, it reminds me of just how tight the draw is on the Kayfun Lite Plus. It's still a great flavored vape, just not quite as enjoyable as the RDA's due to the restricted airflow. I'm not about to try to drill out a $100 tank and possibly break a drill bit in it.
cotton nest ring of cotton or rayon (synthetic cotton)
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I prefer a cooler vape. I use 28ga at 1.3 - 1.4 Ohm and vape at 2.9 - 3.0 volts.
Most of my juices are VG heavy at least 60% with a couple at 80%.
Most of my juices are VG heavy at least 60% with a couple at 80%.
I'll give it another shot in the morning. Thanks for the info and the inspiration.
Sent using these stoopid hooves..
Sent using these stoopid hooves..
Whenever I use a juice that just doesn't seem to want to wick I switch the coil out to an "infinicoil". Allows me to use more cotton without flooding it out. Can be a little bit of a pain to set up but once you get it, it works great.
Just google it, there's tons of videos and such on it.
Just google it, there's tons of videos and such on it.
I run 5.5 wraps of 30ga Kanthal around a 3/32" post in a microcoil that comes to 1.9Ω once compressed. This, I run at 5V for a total of 13.2W of heat.
I then pull a bit of rayon through it, trim it, and tamp it down. I'm as yet unsure whether I prefer to push the wick away from the juice channels or not. My most recent build did not, and seems to be working better than those I built where I did, but that could be for any number of reasons.
I then pull a bit of rayon through it, trim it, and tamp it down. I'm as yet unsure whether I prefer to push the wick away from the juice channels or not. My most recent build did not, and seems to be working better than those I built where I did, but that could be for any number of reasons.
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I use 28ga with 8/7 wraps around a 2.4mm screwdriver. Usually comes out between 1.3Ω and 1.5Ω. For wick I either use organic cotton or Peaches and Creme yarn doubled over. I run my coil straigt and not diagonal like some people do. Wick drop right down to the edge of the base. I run 3.9v - 4.2v depending on the juice.
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