Favourite Hardware set up for NETs?..

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yourgurnard

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Wot do You prefer to use & why?
I'm pretty much solely using Origen V3 RDAs (clones) with S/S rope/mesh on a mech. or basic reg. mod.
Mainly 'cos these builds last longer than cotton using My (inadequately filtered..!) steeps.
I still use clearos when out & about,but have to make sure I've packed a bag-ful of re-built Kanger heads too!
Wot's Yours?...........
 
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usr/

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Wot do You prefer to use & why?
I'm pretty much solely using Origen V3 RDAs (clones) with S/S rope/mesh on a mech. or basic reg. mod.
Mainly 'cos these builds last longer than cotton using My (inadequately filtered..!) steeps.
I still use clearos when out & about,but have to make sure I've packed a bag-ful of re-built Kanger heads too!
Wot's Yours?...........

For the past 6-8 months using only Kayfun Lite Plus V2 (dual air hole) from 101vape.com and Infinite Kayfun Mini's from evcigarettes.com. Their just so reliable. Never have an issue with them and the draw and flavor are perfect for me. (ymmv) I always use spaced coils wrapped on 6-32 machine screw (the thing practically wraps itself!) at around 1.0-1.5 ohms depending on what wire I'm using. 30awg or 32awg Kanthal and Kho Gen Do cotton. MVP 3 Pro and IPV 2 and 4's mods, 9.5 to 13.5 w. Occasionally break out my Aqua v1's or Taifun GS's. I have an Achilles coming from china (first time China), per @AndriaD recommendation. It sounds like it would be a perfect rda for NET's. Bottom air and tight draw. Kinda got away from chasing gear as I've found my perfect vape with the Kayfuns. Gives me more time to concentrate on the extracts and other tobacco flavor mixes (Hangsen and INW absolutes, TA's). The only issue I had with the Infinite Kayfun Mini's were the juice channels running vertical up along the walls of the build deck were very shallow and had to Dremel them out deeper, but their perfect now. Like the Ivogo, the Infinite KFM have the bulged clear tank for good liquid flow vs Tobeco's straight clear tank (avoid these!) Have a few subohm tanks but I just don't like lung hitting and massive clouds. The flavor just isn't there for me. I'll probably give these away, eventually, to my cloud chasing cousin, the next time I see him. lol!
 
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AndriaD

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I have an Achilles coming from china (first time China), per @AndriaD recommendation. It sounds like it would be a perfect rda for NET's. Bottom air and tight draw.

If you like a tight draw, you''ll love the Achilles. Do the NET vapes cause gunking? The gunk problem was why I had to find something other than my Kayfuns, I was wasting way too much ejuice, turning brown from the gunk backwashing from the coil down the wicks into the juice. Now I waste very little.

Andria
 

Str8vision

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NETs are notoriously gunky, even the cleanest of them are much harder on wicks/coils than a synthetic flavored juice. I re-wick and dry burn my coils after every 12 - 15ml which for me is every other day and sometimes each and every day. For that reason when it comes to vaping NETs RBAs are the way to go, easy maintenance and ridiculously inexpensive to keep up even when using premium materials. Factory made coil heads are crazy expensive (especially for NETs), poorly built and simply don't yield the best flavor.

A flavor focused NET enthusiast, my hardware has evolved over time as has my vape style. My current set up is a Kato square box unregulated 18650 mod with a Goblin atty built between 0.4 - 0.6 ohms and wicked with Japanese cotton.

I like the Kato square box (mech mod), because even with a full sized tank atomizer installed in isn't much larger than two 18650 batteries sitting side by side, easy carry when traveling and not very conspicuous out in public.

Kato box.png



I prefer the dual coil Goblin atomizer because it provides the best flavor (by far), of any tank atomizer I've tried and has outstanding airflow. I don't recommend it for newcomers because building on it requires more knowledge, skill and experience than the typical single coil atty (Kayfun, Lemo etc), and because of the massive airflow, it's best suited for direct lung inhales. If I still inhaled mouth to lung I'd be using a Eleaf Lemo or a small chambered dripper instead.

I prefer Japanese cotton over any other wicking media because, for me, it provides the absolute best flavor available (for NETs), and with me it's all about flavor.
 

AndriaD

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NETs are notoriously gunky, even the cleanest of them are much harder on wicks/coils than a synthetic flavored juice. I re-wick and dry burn my coils after every 12 - 15ml which for me is every other day and sometimes each and every day. For that reason when it comes to vaping NETs RBAs are the way to go, easy maintenance and ridiculously inexpensive to keep up even when using premium materials. Factory made coil heads are crazy expensive (especially for NETs), poorly built and simply don't yield the best flavor.

A flavor focused NET enthusiast, my hardware has evolved over time as has my vape style. My current set up is a Kato square box unregulated 18650 mod with a Goblin atty built between 0.4 - 0.6 ohms and wicked with Japanese cotton.

I like the Kato square box (mech mod), because even with a full sized tank atomizer installed in isn't much larger than two 18650 batteries sitting side by side, easy carry when traveling and not very conspicuous out in public.

View attachment 497002


I prefer the dual coil Goblin atomizer because it provides the best flavor (by far), of any tank atomizer I've tried and has outstanding airflow. I don't recommend it for newcomers because building on it requires more knowledge, skill and experience than the typical single coil atty (Kayfun, Lemo etc), and because of the massive airflow, it's best suited for direct lung inhales. If I still inhaled mouth to lung I'd be using a Eleaf Lemo or a small chambered dripper instead.

I prefer Japanese cotton over any other wicking media because, for me, it provides the absolute best flavor available (for NETs), and with me it's all about flavor.


Oooooh love that Kato! I was looking at a clone of that at one point, but I'm not really "into" mechs that much; great looking mod, though!

That's about how often I have to dry-burn/re-wick too, about 10-12ml. Got a really gunky coil right now in fact, just can't get motivated to do anything about it. :D My ADV is about 30% flavor, very sweet, and the main ingredient is INW shisha strawberry, which is organic, so the gunk problem is right off the charts, but it tastes so good, I really don't care -- went to an RDA for it, so I wasn't wasting so much of that awesome juice. :D

One thing I do sometimes, if I'm not feeling motivated to do the maintenance -- I dump out whatever drops remain in the Achilles' well, then tilt it a bit and put a dropperful of PG over the coil (the tilting is so it doesn't go straight down the air hole); dump that out, then use a dropperful of the actual ejuice over the coil, then dump that out -- it cleans a lot of the crap off the coil so it'll last a bit longer before I need to dry-burn it.

Andria
 
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usr/

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If you like a tight draw, you''ll love the Achilles. Do the NET vapes cause gunking? The gunk problem was why I had to find something other than my Kayfuns, I was wasting way too much ejuice, turning brown from the gunk backwashing from the coil down the wicks into the juice. Now I waste very little.

Andria

Yeah still contend with gunking, regardless of what I use. I used to blend at pretty high percentages (15-20%). At that point was lucky to get through a tank before having to rewick and dry burn. Gradually started cutting back and now mix at around 7-10%. This has greatly improved mileage, along with finer filtering. Can get to the bottom of a second refill and can go three, so usually go ahead and change out so there's really no waste. Using several tanks I just re-wick two or three at a time and then good to go again. Have the routine down pretty good so it's not a big deal anymore. Looking forward to getting that Achilles but coming from China just hope it doesn't take too long.
 
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AndriaD

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Yeah still contend with gunking, regardless of what I use. I used to blend at pretty high percentages (15-20%). At that point was lucky to get through a tank before having to rewick and dry burn. Gradually started cutting back and now mix at around 7-10%. This has greatly improved mileage, along with finer filtering. Can get to the bottom of a second refill and can go three, so usually go ahead and change out so there's really no waste. Using several tanks I just re-wick two or three at a time and then good to go again. Have the routine down pretty good so it's not a big deal anymore. Looking forward to getting that Achilles but coming from China just hope it doesn't take too long.

It actually comes from Hong Kong, which mysteriously offers much faster shipping than mainland China; I think I got mine in about 2wks, and I think @Bronze said he got one in 10 days.

Andria
 
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MattyTny

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NETs are notoriously gunky, even the cleanest of them are much harder on wicks/coils than a synthetic flavored juice. I re-wick and dry burn my coils after every 12 - 15ml which for me is every other day and sometimes each and every day. For that reason when it comes to vaping NETs RBAs are the way to go, easy maintenance and ridiculously inexpensive to keep up even when using premium materials. Factory made coil heads are crazy expensive (especially for NETs), poorly built and simply don't yield the best flavor.

A flavor focused NET enthusiast, my hardware has evolved over time as has my vape style. My current set up is a Kato square box unregulated 18650 mod with a Goblin atty built between 0.4 - 0.6 ohms and wicked with Japanese cotton.

I like the Kato square box (mech mod), because even with a full sized tank atomizer installed in isn't much larger than two 18650 batteries sitting side by side, easy carry when traveling and not very conspicuous out in public.

View attachment 497002


I prefer the dual coil Goblin atomizer because it provides the best flavor (by far), of any tank atomizer I've tried and has outstanding airflow. I don't recommend it for newcomers because building on it requires more knowledge, skill and experience than the typical single coil atty (Kayfun, Lemo etc), and because of the massive airflow, it's best suited for direct lung inhales. If I still inhaled mouth to lung I'd be using a Eleaf Lemo or a small chambered dripper instead.

I prefer Japanese cotton over any other wicking media because, for me, it provides the absolute best flavor available (for NETs), and with me it's all about flavor.

This is a bit off topic, that looks really nice, I've always thought about getting a Kato for an RTA. What atomizer do you have in the picture? It doesn't look like the Goblin based off the air slots and o-ring in the tank (unless it's a reflection). Is it a combination of parts? I also really like the Goblin, resistance set around 0.5ohms.

How do you like the Kato compared to other mechanical devices you may have? Speaking in terms of contact points and switch durability.
 
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Str8vision

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This is a bit off topic, that looks really nice, I've always thought about getting a Kato for an RTA. What atomizer do you have in the picture? It doesn't look like the Goblin based off the air slots and o-ring in the tank (unless it's a reflection). Is it a combination of parts? I also really like the Goblin, resistance set around 0.5ohms.

How do you like the Kato compared to other mechanical devices you may have? Speaking in terms of contact points and switch durability.

That's just a pic I grabbed off the web while I was posting, although the atty does resemble the Goblin. It shows the size of the 18650 Kato which is one of the things I like about it, even with a full sized atty attached it sits in the palm of my hand. I have both a genuine Kato (gift from my daughter that I only use when socializing), and a $26 FT Kato clone that I use the rest of the time. Practically identical in looks and build quality, the clone is -outstanding- and at 1/10th the price it's definitely the one I'd recommend to anyone looking to buy. Contacts are a copper alloy, upper and lower end caps are stainless steel as is the 510 connector and thumb switch while the main body is a solid chunk of brushed aluminum bored for the battery compartment and atty well. The Kato hits harder than any of my other mechs (lower resistance), vents from the bottom and is rock solid, easily the most durable mod I've come across. I lock the switch and carry it in my front pants pocket or jacket/coat pocket when out and about, easy to carry and the top "ring" helps protect the atomizer's fragile glass tank from any bumps or impacts. The switch itself is the best I've seen, I've been using mine for a year and it works the same as when it was new. Smooth action, not too stiff but enough resistance to prevent misfires while being handled/held. I much prefer the "top" mounted switch over a bottom or side mounted one, it allows my thumb to do the work which, for me, is just intuitive. With its low center of gravity the Kato sits stable on a desk, table or other hard surface while keeping the atty upright, not so with my other mods which are either top heavy, long and narrow and or have bottom switches. Cons; the Kato doesn't have a floating 510 pin, you have to manually adjust it for different atomizer heights, It's heavier than any of my other mods but no so much that it's a deal breaker, the brushed aluminum center section is easy to scratch/scuff, the recessed 510 connector is not ideal for drippers (although I've used a Magma on it). For dripping I would prefer to use an Astro, Atom or Invader mini although these days (because of the outstanding flavor produced by the Goblin), I only drip when performing in-process sampling of a tobacco extraction or testing a new mix (making hybrid NET).
 
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MattyTny

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That's just a pic I grabbed off the web while I was posting, although the atty does resemble the Goblin. It shows the size of the 18650 Kato which is one of the things I like about it, even with a full sized atty attached it sits in the palm of my hand. I have both a genuine Kato (gift from my daughter that I only use when socializing), and a $26 FT Kato clone that I use the rest of the time. Practically identical in looks and build quality, the clone is -outstanding- and at 1/10th the price it's definitely the one I'd recommend to anyone looking to buy. Contacts are a copper alloy, upper and lower end caps are stainless steel as is the 510 connector and thumb switch while the main body is a solid chunk of brushed aluminum bored for the battery compartment and atty well. The Kato hits harder than any of my other mechs (lower resistance), vents from the bottom and is rock solid, easily the most durable mod I've come across. I lock the switch and carry it in my front pants pocket or jacket/coat pocket when out and about, easy to carry and the top "ring" helps protect the atomizer's fragile glass tank from any bumps or impacts. The switch itself is the best I've seen, I've been using mine for a year and it works the same as when it was new. Smooth action, not too stiff but enough resistance to prevent misfires while being handled/held. I much prefer the "top" mounted switch over a bottom or side mounted one, it allows my thumb to do the work which, for me, is just intuitive. With its low center of gravity the Kato sits stable on a desk, table or other hard surface while keeping the atty upright, not so with my other mods which are either top heavy, long and narrow and or have bottom switches. Cons; the Kato doesn't have a floating 510 pin, you have to manually adjust it for different atomizer heights, It's heavier than any of my other mods but no so much that it's a deal breaker, the brushed aluminum center section is easy to scratch/scuff, the recessed 510 connector is not ideal for drippers (although I've used a Magma on it). For dripping I would prefer to use an Astro, Atom or Invader mini although these days (because of the outstanding flavor produced by the Goblin), I only drip when performing in-process sampling of a tobacco extraction or testing a new mix (making hybrid NET).

Thank you for the feedback. I've always been hesitant to make the purchase on the Kato due to users complaining about high voltage drop. I did some research elsewhere and it seems that a lot of users also report that it does not have the high voltage drop issue.

It looks like a solid device to take out due to the top switch being easily accessible. I come from using a few 18650 tube mechanicals with RTAs mounted on top. I like the the tube mechanicals, but I am somewhat hesitant to always bring out for a long period of time due to the top heavy form as you mentioned. The atomizer ring is also another plus for taking the device out. I have dropped my 18650 tube when out, despite no major damage I would feel better knowing the tank isn't going to banged around.

Overall you gave me a great response and I appreciate it. I will be checking out the FT clone, which I see is still available and gets great reviews. I see that Focalecig has the same one with the blue case for a few more dollars, so depending on what else I need from the overseas vendor will dictate where I purchase from. Looking forward to using it.
 

aceswired

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It actually comes from Hong Kong, which mysteriously offers much faster shipping than mainland China; I think I got mine in about 2wks, and I think @Bronze said he got one in 10 days.

Andria
Which site? Don't see any on fasttech, and I like a really tight draw. Might be perfect for me.

Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk
 

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PapawBrett

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I use a Reos Grand and an RM2 Rebuildable Atomizer. Some say the Reosville is a "Cult Society", but I don't remember any initiation, chanting or special tattoos. I just like a good vape. The Grand is indestructible, which is good because I can drop/ floorboard dribble just about anything. The RM2 is a great little M-T-L flavor machine, vary hard to beat. The Achilles, tuned in on a ProVari P3, comes close. Yes, I have a couple of Prothingys sitting in the corner collecting dust along with their respective Kayfun/ KFL+ V2/ Veritas/ Achilles. But for me personally, I just keep using the Grand/ RM2.
 
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