Fire / explosion in battery

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Runju

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I just had a fire / explosion in a battery.

I was vaping slim ss with 510connector, and was trying a 510tank-atomizer for made for Leo Pro.
The battery was re-chargeable lithium ion battery, icr 10440 3,4v 360 mah, bought by totally wicked in uk.

I fired the cig once .. then the tube became hot -- so very hot -- and i managed to get the battery out of the tube and put it on the table. Then it started to blow out smoke for a little while and stopped. I was going to throw it away when it suddenly began to spinn and blow out a lot of more smoke, and was very very hot. After 30 sec or so it stopped, and burned a spot on the table. Life got back to normal again hehe

Quite scary i think :ohmy:, and now i am a little afraid of using this setup again ....

Obviously I have too little knowledge about batteries , but ....Can anyone tell me what this is --- why it happend??
 

rojo

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Hard to say. Could be a faulty battery or your 510 adapter is poorly insulated or your atty center post could be misaligned or your atty is otherwise causing a closed circuit with no resistance, thereby exceeding the safe amp limit of the battery. Try the atty on an ego or provari or something with protection and see whether it faults again. If not, it was probably just a cheap Chinese piece of crap battery or a bad 510 adapter. I've got a 510-ego adapter that always does this on my p+. Try a new adapter and get your next battery from cloud 9 when Lisa gets back from her honeymoon.
 
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qccraig

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Good thing you were not driving down the road when this happened. If you or a friend knows how to use an ohm meter, I'd check the switch, the mount and the atty. If the battery got hot, then there's a short some place. If everything checks out, carefully try another battery.

The battery was probably all ready fried before getting it out of the unit.
 

Runju

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first: 3,4v battery is wrong - should be 3,7 :oops:

I measured the atty on provari and it says OP, so there is something wrong there. But whether it is the cause or the consequence - i dont know
Thinken over it again ... I may have made ​​a mistake putting in the battery from the atty-end and then maybe the spring hace touched the tube while i might have touched the firebutton :blush:?? Would that be enough to make this happend?
 
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MrKrinkle

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RULE #1 USE AW IMR High Drain Batteries...
RULE #2 SEE RULE #1...

there are a few other relatively safe batteries out there but the AW IMR series has treated me very well...

RULE #3 BUY A GGTS & ODY w/GGTS Base and achieve 100% Greek Perfection in Connection... and shun the evil 510 demons and cheap Chinese made adapters that short batteries and cause burns and fires...
 
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Supacrazyguy

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Battery safety is all about battery knowledge 1st and 2nd the equipment you use .
A few tips

stay away from lithium ions , they are not suited for vaping , I don't care what anyone else thinks , they can't handle high discharge and they can explode .

Bigger batteries of the imr variety are the safest , bigger is safer ? Yes because bigger batteries can handle a higher current draw so if you get a partial short ( the most common kind ) your big battery with its higher current draw rating will handle it better .

Buy batteries from authorised resellers , most people recommend AW , be carful , there are a lot of fakes out their .

get a good charger and measure your batteries from time to time .

never and I mean never stack batteries unless you fully understand the dangers and precautions needed to stay safe

Make sure your mod has vent holes and a fuse of some sort is a necessity in my book

Educate yourself on battery safety , this is the most important .
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
 

Supacrazyguy

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Thank you all for good advice.
I have to say i was quite shocked when i saw the power in that little 10440 battery.
Most of my batteries are aw imr, but not the small for slim. Do they make 10440 aw imr??

AW per say don't make batteries , they source quality cells and put there brand name on them . Do they sell 10440 ? I don't really know

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
 

Runju

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hmm .. i cant find ant AW-battery that fits the Slim
here is IMR UltraLite IMR 10440 LiMn High Drain 3.7v Rechargeable Battery ???

as som now understand :) i dont know what AW or IMR stand for. But i think i understand that those letters should be on a quality-battery.

But .. ic ant find any aw ... anyone can? And i got the Fog today fits perfect on Slim wow so i need some batteries to trust


you had a short by a bad atomizer Run, so better use AW batteries. That way a bad atomizer will hurt the battery but not you
 

CaptSteve

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IMR = "I" stands for Lithium-Ion, "M" stands for the Manganese based chemistry, and "R" stands for rechargeable
ICR = "I" stands for Lithium-Ion, "C" stands for the Cobalt based chemistry, and "R" stands for rechargeable

Only the round cells commonly use these designators. There are flat cells or prismatic cells that use a Li-Ion chemsitry, but it's usually polymer based (plastic). I've never even seen the code designator for that. Everybody just calls them LiPo cells.

High drain means that the cell can handle high output currents. ICR cells are usually limited to 2 times the charge capacity in output drain. So, for example, a 750mAh 14500 ICR cell would be limited to two times 750mA or 1.5A. This is why this type of cell must be protected. It has the lowest drain capability and the highest volatility or flammability in composition.

IMR cells typically have an 8C drain limit which is 8 times the charge capacity. A IMR 14500 with 600mAh can handle 4.8A. This chemistry is less volatile than the Cobalt chemistry and has much higher drain limits so they are typically not protected internally. Though, they should have some kind of external protection because they can burn too, just not as easily.

LiPo and prsimatic cells can range in drain limit anywhere form 1/2C to 60C. They are slightly less volatile than ICR and a little more than IMR. They are typically not protected internally and should have external protection electronics. These are the type of cells you find in digital cameras and cell phones.

Generally speaking, you only use an IMR cell when the device specifically calls for one. IMR cells are required for boosters (single cell VV or VW) because boosters require higher drain. With a booster, you're going from lower voltage to higher voltage. That means you're going from higher current to lower current.

IMR cells may also be required for unregulated mods if the cell is small. For example, you are limited to 1.5A with an ICR 14500. If you want to use an LR atty with a cell that size, you need an IMR cell.

In the end, the size of your cell boils down to what you want in run time versus size. That's always the big trade-off. If you want a smaller device with a smaller cell, you'll have less run time. If you want more run time, you'll have to tolerate a larger device with a larger cell.

I hope you're not even more confused now:)
 

CaptSteve

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I don't use the 10440's at all so I'm not that familiar with them but I believe the Ultra Fire one's are unprotected and the Trust Fire one's are protected (grey one's) here is a link from Bruce's COV site who sell them. I would say they are the best 10440 you can get

Trustfire 10440 Protected Rechargeable Lithium Battery - 3.7 vol
 
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