Didnt plan on it but i have a mech mod now. Dont wanna be a statistic in the news so i want to ask questions. Ohms law, as i understand it is i=v/r. So therefore, the only battery i have for it right now is an ijoy 20700, with what im assuming is exagerated specs, like 40amp. Using this anyway, i built a dual coil twisted clapton thingy and the resistance is .10. Now i dont believe the battery really is really a 40 amp but if it actually is, .10 ohm is really close to the danger zone. If this 40 amp spec is wrong, .10 will be disastrous . Probably the best thing i can do is rebuild my coils and get the resistance up a little bit higher. Ill look thru the battery threads but i dont think this 20700 is really 40 amp. Any thoughts?
- Status
At best, that is a 20A battery. It’s not a very good performer for a mech either.
You and your room mate need to learn that there are two things to know about sub-ohm vaping with a mech mod. And learning these two things is critical, or neither of you has any business using a mech mod.
There is no 18650, 20700, 21700 battery that has 42 amps of power, so one would need a build of at least 0.21 ohm to use a 20 amp battery, 0.14 ohm for a true 30 amp battery. These figures are from using an Ohm's Law calculator. The lower the resistance of the coil, the higher the amp draw the coil has, the more amps are required to fire the coil.
Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations for a Mechanical Mod
A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
- The coil(s) you use will have an "amp draw" based upon the ohm rating, or resistance measurement.
- All batteries have an "amp rating", or continuous discharge rating. The amp draw of the coil must never exceed the battery's amp rating.
There is no 18650, 20700, 21700 battery that has 42 amps of power, so one would need a build of at least 0.21 ohm to use a 20 amp battery, 0.14 ohm for a true 30 amp battery. These figures are from using an Ohm's Law calculator. The lower the resistance of the coil, the higher the amp draw the coil has, the more amps are required to fire the coil.
Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations for a Mechanical Mod
A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
Last edited:
The first thing to commit to is the knowledge that a lithium cell contains magnitudes more power than the carbon zinc and alkaline formulations we've used all our lives. A short followed by a chemical reaction from overheating on a lithium cell usually can't be stopped once it's started. For that reason, a regulated mod is the safest way to vape. If you must use a mech, educate yourself, watch the videos of lithium cells that have shorted, and realize that you are holding a potential fire bomb in your hand if you exceed the max current range of the cell.
A regulated mod will vape just as well and maybe vape better than a mech since it self regulates the output as battery voltage drops. A mech will always lose power and vape quality over time as the battery voltage declines. The best features with regulated mods are short and over current protection in addition to a stable vape throughout the charge cycle.
Other than that, learn all you can about lithium cells, be safe, and enjoy the vape.
A regulated mod will vape just as well and maybe vape better than a mech since it self regulates the output as battery voltage drops. A mech will always lose power and vape quality over time as the battery voltage declines. The best features with regulated mods are short and over current protection in addition to a stable vape throughout the charge cycle.
Other than that, learn all you can about lithium cells, be safe, and enjoy the vape.
Last edited:
Truth is, if you want a 0.1 ohm giant dual coil build to blow big clouds that'll show up on NEXRAD, get a regulated 2 or 3 battery box. It's simply way more power than you'll get out of a mech, short of some exotic 4 cell dual parallel series mech. Mechs were the thing when regulated mods offered 20W at best. These days there's simply no need.
That said, I love my mech squonk mods for their simplicity and no squonk mess worries. But I use those little 22 mm single coil rdas with builds between 0.5 to maybe 0.3 ohm at the lowest. Match your hardware to your use, and always remain within the bounds of what you select. If you can't build something simple with a rational resistance for a mech "you have to use", you're looking at possibly some very expensive medical bills in addition to whatever property you set on fire.
That said, I love my mech squonk mods for their simplicity and no squonk mess worries. But I use those little 22 mm single coil rdas with builds between 0.5 to maybe 0.3 ohm at the lowest. Match your hardware to your use, and always remain within the bounds of what you select. If you can't build something simple with a rational resistance for a mech "you have to use", you're looking at possibly some very expensive medical bills in addition to whatever property you set on fire.
Give him some info on lithium batteries and encourage him to study it. The worst thing a new mech user can do is walk blindly into unsafe territory thinking, "it's just a battery. What can go wrong?". The answer is everything if you don't respect the power of a lithium cell and choose the right cell wisely.
YouTube has many videos that show what happens when a lithium cell shorts. They will make him a believer. Seeing is believing. Then, you think about what might happen if that cell was in your pocket when it began to spew hot electrolyte.
Last edited:
Well, i rebuilt the coil setup. .24ohms. 20amp battery. Gives me almost 5amp leeway for safety. It works. How does it vape, you might ask? Impressed i am not. Nor did i expect to be. If i could get me a real good 30amp battery, might be a different story. So my curiosity and the need to not let a machine beat me is satisfied. Ill keep it around for occasional use. I knew this going in, and realize im not missing anything. I do get a far better vape from my tfv12 king and voopoo drag and i can push the tfv12 .15ohm coil to 135watts comfortably. But i enjoyed the learning experience and will continue to tinker.
If you want a hot super cloudy vape, then stick with your regulated mod and your TFV12.
You will not be able to achieve the same experience with a single battery mech, because physics, and current battery technology.
The process for picking a coil and battery for a mech is pretty straight forward.
1. Choose a (realistic) power level
2. Use ohms law and/or steam-engine to choose a coil/s that provides this wattage
3. Calculate what amp draw this will generate.
4. Pick a battery that of a known and proven CDR (continuous discharge rate) that matches this amp draw, with some safety headroom.
A fully charged 18650 will be at 4.2 volts
If you use two coils then the total resistance will be halved, ie. two 0.5 ohm coils will result in a total resistance of 0.25 ohms.
0.25 ohms at 4.2 volts is 70 watts and will draw 17 amps.
The Samsung 30Q or the LG HG2 would both be great choices for this particular setup.
Remember that this is theoretical. In a real world example you will be lucky to get 60 percent of that wattage due to the inherent losses in unregulated systems and battery sag. So you would be looking at about 50ish watts to your atomizer. Also as with all unregulated devices, that 4.2 volts will quickly drop off to under 4 volts and will continue to decrease along with the output wattage as you vape.
Also
, using claptons or similar high mass coils will compound your problems as the large amount of wire involved will need even more power to bring up to temperature than a simple round wire coil.
You will not be able to achieve the same experience with a single battery mech, because physics, and current battery technology.
The process for picking a coil and battery for a mech is pretty straight forward.
1. Choose a (realistic) power level
2. Use ohms law and/or steam-engine to choose a coil/s that provides this wattage
3. Calculate what amp draw this will generate.
4. Pick a battery that of a known and proven CDR (continuous discharge rate) that matches this amp draw, with some safety headroom.
A fully charged 18650 will be at 4.2 volts
If you use two coils then the total resistance will be halved, ie. two 0.5 ohm coils will result in a total resistance of 0.25 ohms.
0.25 ohms at 4.2 volts is 70 watts and will draw 17 amps.
The Samsung 30Q or the LG HG2 would both be great choices for this particular setup.
Remember that this is theoretical. In a real world example you will be lucky to get 60 percent of that wattage due to the inherent losses in unregulated systems and battery sag. So you would be looking at about 50ish watts to your atomizer. Also as with all unregulated devices, that 4.2 volts will quickly drop off to under 4 volts and will continue to decrease along with the output wattage as you vape.
Also
, using claptons or similar high mass coils will compound your problems as the large amount of wire involved will need even more power to bring up to temperature than a simple round wire coil.
I've always preferred a manual transmission to automatics. I have a locked and lifted Wrangler. When I drive my wife's car I find myself unconsciously looking for the clutch pedal. I learned to drive in a sandrail with a manual transmission when I was 10yo but of course didn't drive a street car until I was 16yo. My first car was a fiberglass body dunebuggy. I've had many vehicles with auto transmissions but have always had at least 1 car at all times with a manual transmission since I was 16yo.
I prefer a manual but today, I trust a/t more than my seventy-four old knee to function properly all the way home.
It's kind of like people who want a 4 or 5 speed stick shift in their first car. After a year of changing gears they decide an automatic really was the best choice, as their friends suggested.
Uh, I started driving in BOTH. I VASTLY prefer stick shifts for the following reasons: you don't get bored, it's good exercise, if you are good with them (I am) you can preserve fuel, have more control, and in rain and snow you can downshift instead of brake (or do both, if necessary) and like.... It's just all around better.
Automatics have none of that. I guarantee you, in snowy weather (and I have had practice) I'm going to have better outcomes than some twit in an automatic SUV who thinks he can go 40 miles faster than he SHOULD... until he has to hit the brakes. I can't tell you the number of 4WD folks I have seen just FLIPPED over in the snow, including a dude who DIED right in front of my FACE AND totaled my stick shift Saab and messed up a couple kids in a THIRD car. It sucked, but well.
Be grounded to the road. The only major accidents I have ever had were freak ones like that he pushed the woman's car into mine, I was exiting the MVA with my "you are good for 3 years" emissions thing. Otherwise, I get ungrounded when I'm parking although not so much any more cuz I know my car
Insurance totaled it. I begged my parents to just let me keep it and have it repaired (I knew Saabs were not long for this world) but no instead they gifted me this automatic Volvo thing. It sucked.
What does this have to do with mechs? Well, if mechs are manuals I don't want one actually because I am the kind of vaper that does not want to have to pay attention All the Time. But I also think if you are that person well have at it.
I also (for a bajillion reasons) think mechs should exist and we should not be required to drive electric cars when we punch in the coordinates.
For the longest time the DC metro was fully automated but like, they had drivers. Mainly so they could PATHETICALLY attempt to stop the train if there was a jumper but if I know ONE thing is that at some point, every automated thing FAILS. Regardless of the number of FAILSAFES.
Something that makes you think YOU are ultra safe (like an SUV) can actually be the thing that kills you.
anna
I run single battery mechs squonks exclusively (have yet to find a regulated mod that works for me) and I can say it can be very tricky to find a build that does the trick if you are looking for something particular. But if you put forth the effort, most of the time you can eventually find something that works. Sometimes it requires trying different coil builds on your current atomizers, but with mechs specifically, you may need to find new toppers to get you there since they are a lot less adjustable than a regulated mod.
For single battery mechs, I stick with single coils. They are generally easier for an individual battery to heat up quickly, and tend to help preserve battery life. I run 28x3/40 ni80 fused claptons at around 0.25-0.3 ohms (depending on the device). They heat up instantly and give a nice warm vape, and drain my battery about the same as a similar round wire build. Single battery mechs just seem to work better with higher gauge wire (especially exotic coils).
For single battery mechs, I stick with single coils. They are generally easier for an individual battery to heat up quickly, and tend to help preserve battery life. I run 28x3/40 ni80 fused claptons at around 0.25-0.3 ohms (depending on the device). They heat up instantly and give a nice warm vape, and drain my battery about the same as a similar round wire build. Single battery mechs just seem to work better with higher gauge wire (especially exotic coils).
I had my share of stick shifts, but these days I like a good automatic. My 2017 Ram Longhorn Hemi has a really nice 8 speed auto that is said to be of German origin. It's a solid gear box that seems to always choose the right ratio and it has automatic hill hold that's really nice when it's needed.
There's few things more fun than driving the right car with a good stick shift trans, though.
Last edited:
I drove a semi for quite a few years, 10 speed and 13 speed transmissions. With a heavy clutch pedal. Drive thru Chicago at the wrong time of day. Or Atlanta. Or Nashville . Lol.
Yeah i already figured 3.7v divided by .10 ohms is 37amps and if the battery was really 40amp, 37 is real close to scary. i will have to beef up my coil build. I got no problem with figuring the math. I also highly suspected that the battery i have isnt really 40 amp. @Mooch said it was probably closer to 20amp. I got a pretty good handle on what im doing though. Ill pull those coils an use them on my drag and dead rabbit. Ive got enough wire to work with to make more coils. This ol coyote aint gonna be on the news. Im not even gonna use this mech until i get my coils at a proper resistance for a 20amp battery. I wanted confirmation, i guess, of what i already knew and i certainly appreciate the feedback from everyone. And to know you guys got my back on this is awesome too. Much thanks.
Im good. I got this. I dont have to use a mech, but im glad my friend saw the light before he lit hisself up. Ill dial it in proper before i do use it, no worries. I do understand and appreciate the concern though.
I use both. Mechs all day, and reg in bed as I can’t be trusted to stay awake lol...
the pressing concern is obviously safety, but I’ve never driven an automatic and it’s interesting that you think auto is the best choice. May I ask why you think that? Manuals are so common here and I’ve never thought about an automatic.
Last edited:
Personally I think both manual and automatics have their place. Manual is definitely more fun to drive when you can actually drive, but if your daily commute is stop and go with way more stop than go, then a manual just gets tedious. I work from home now, but my previous commute was just 13 miles but coming home at 5:00 it took me about 1 hour and 15 min to drive that. I often sat at the same red light two or three times to get through and top speed was like 10-15mph. No way would I want to do that, day in and day out, in a manual transmission vehicle.
- Status
Similar threads
