First sub-ohm rig...suggestions / tips?

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bkroll1

Full Member
Oct 28, 2013
10
1
NY, USA
Greetings all,

After two years of vaping on various rigs and tanks I'm making the jump to a sub ohm mech rig in the hopes of getting better taste, faster hit, and [somewhat] bigger clouds. Here's the set-up:

Kamry K101 mod
Smoktech RSST genesis style rba
Kanthal 28g coil wire
400 SS Mesh
Efest IMR 18650 LiMn 1600mAh Battery - Flat Top - 30 Amp
50/50 juice

The above items are in the mail. I'm hoping to setup at .8 ohms and no lower (not worth the risk IMHO)

Any tips and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated...

Cheers all,
Brian
 

cghildreth

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Nov 4, 2012
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Central Texas
+1 to Flyer's tip. You've selected a good beginner's rig. The RSST is pretty easy to setup. I vape enough citrus juices that I prefer to have a glass tank that won't crack, but I still really like the RSST for price to value and ease of setup.

You'll see lots of different opinions on the best way to setup a wick. This will likely include tips that you shouldn't use mesh as a wick. What I say is experiment. There are a ton of different wick styles out there, including myriads of different mesh setups, silica, wire rope, cotton, ceramic, and combinations of the above. Mesh can be a bit of a pain to learn. Watch some videos and be patient as you're setting it up - you'll likely burn a few coils and spend a few hours before you get your first successful setup, and even then it probably won't be that great of a setup.

What works for me in a gennie after a great deal of experimentation: I prefer a 325 mesh tube style wick, lightly torched. I typically cut a piece of mesh that is 5/8" by 1.5". I lightly torch, until the mesh is glowing. I pay a little extra attention to the edges. This takes all of about 15 seconds with a decent chef's torch. If you notice any "hairs" on the edge of the mesh, its a good idea to trim them. I then make a very small fold on one edge of the wick and the top of the wick. Then I roll the wick around a needle. For the RSST without the insulator, a 14g needle works well. The side folded edge should be on the outside of the wick when you finish rolling, though the fold should be facing towards the center of the wick. Does that make sense? I hope so. Its important to make sure that the wick is very tightly rolled on the needle. It takes a great deal of pressure to accomplish this.

Next, I pull the wick off the needle, put it on an unfolded paperclip, and retorch the wick briefly, paying particular attention to the seam.

Next its time to test fit. I tend to like shorty wicks - the wick extends about 1/4 of an inch into the tank, and is cut of at about a 45 degree angle. Don't cut off the folded top edge! Trim the wick to length using a pair of scissors. Then put the wick back on the needle. It takes a bit of fiddling because the scissors have crushed the bottom edge of the wick.

Once back on the needle, wrap a coil. You'll need to eyeball the gennie and the wick so that the coil is wrapped at the right place on the wick and wrapped in the right direction to make fastening the coil to the atty easier. On gennies, I like to have evenly spaced coils. For the RSST, try a 3-4 wrap of 28 around the 14g size wick for between .7 and .8 ohms IME. Don't take my word for it though - you need to have some way to measure the actual resistance. If not enough, add wraps. If too much, increase the gauge of your resistance wire. With the coil and wick still on the needle, I test fit again and adjust the coil as needed. Hook the terminals up, pull your needle out, and very carefully test fire. I tend to use very short pulses to gradually bring the wire up to temperature and to help me identify hot spots (you can see these as spots on the wire that are visibly brighter than the wire next to it). Poke at your coils to move them ever so slightly to remove the hot spots. I tend to prefer to do the poking around with the mod off (as opposed to firing at the moment that I am poking at the coil). This process is usually a bit easier if you use a partially discharged battery. Once you've removed all the hotspots, drip a bit of juice on the coil and test fire again. Assuming it steams nicely without hot legs at the top or bottom of the coil, fill your tank and vape away. If you're getting hot legs, it usually means you have a short/hotspot in the middle of your coil somewhere and need to fiddle with your coil some more.

Hope this helps.
 

LeoRex

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Apr 10, 2013
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That's almost the exact setup I started with. With a single coil, I stuck with .8/.9 ohm... vaped nice one I got my wick/coil sorted.

Currently, I'm rocking a dual coil .65 ohm could on a 'Chimbus' RDA while my RSST takes a break.

Piece of advice... chances are, it'll take a few tries to get the build sorted out, but when you do, it'll pay off.
 

bkroll1

Full Member
Oct 28, 2013
10
1
NY, USA
Wow all, thanks for the great tips. Everything's up and running and the vape is amazing!!! Great flavor, tons of vapor and best of all I'm getting a great throat hit on a low nic juice which is what I was hoping for. Originally did a 5/4 wrap with the 28g Kanthal and was measuring at 1.8 so I backed it off to a 4/3 wrap and it's right at .84 ohms! Here's a pic of the build: IMG_0196.jpg
 

bkroll1

Full Member
Oct 28, 2013
10
1
NY, USA
Looks good...
1.8 from 5 wraps isn't right... should be closer to 1. .8 with 4 sounds perfect though.

It seemed wrong to me too but it's perfect with 4 wraps! I just drilled out the air hole on the cap with a 3/32 bit because I was getting a lot of condensation inside and the pull was just too hard. It's awesome now.
 

folkphys

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Jul 27, 2013
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Chapel Hill, NC
Where are you testing your resistance? I have a standard mutli-meter, and not one of the fancy threaded testers or even a VV device that reads atomizer ohmage. Sometimes I will get a significantly different reading testing at the deck terminal screws than underneath at the centerpin and 510 sleeve. And if, like me, you are using a probe-style meter are you accounting for the meter's internal resistance?
 

bkroll1

Full Member
Oct 28, 2013
10
1
NY, USA
Where are you testing your resistance? I have a standard mutli-meter, and not one of the fancy threaded testers or even a VV device that reads atomizer ohmage. Sometimes I will get a significantly different reading testing at the deck terminal screws than underneath at the centerpin and 510 sleeve. And if, like me, you are using a probe-style meter are you accounting for the meter's internal resistance?

I was using a probe multimeter at first but I picked up a threaded tester from a local vape shop. In terms of the resistance, I would think that what your getting at the base of the atty/genny/etc is what matters most because that's what the battery is working with. Measuring the resistance at the coil terminals may actually give you a lower resistance than the base of the atty, no?
 
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ceejay

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Feb 26, 2010
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Where are you testing your resistance? I have a standard mutli-meter, and not one of the fancy threaded testers or even a VV device that reads atomizer ohmage. Sometimes I will get a significantly different reading testing at the deck terminal screws than underneath at the centerpin and 510 sleeve. And if, like me, you are using a probe-style meter are you accounting for the meter's internal resistance?

VV devices can't read sub-ohm IIRC
 
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