Hello.
I find this forum an invaluable source of information when it really comes down to it -- I've registered for the sake of having it available via tapatalk, but so far have not found the need to post anything.
However, I bought myself a totally wicked E-lectron-L the other day - fascinated by the technology inside and the prospect of rebuilding the atomizer and basically having a sleek, affordable variable wattage microcoil system that didn't require a lot of maintenance and didn't make me look like some pretentious ecig snob (yes, someone at work actually said that about my ego-c-twist battery + kanger mini protank II setup.)
So it seems that the joyetech C2 Atomizer is not really highly discussed around here (yet) and while there is one thread on the subject, it seems to have been closed for some reason. The last post alluded to how one might rebuild it, but I thought a more in-depth post and perhaps some images to go along with it would better illustrate the process for anyone considering a device that utilizes this atomizer.
Opinions:
It is similar to "areotank" style atomizers in that the atomizer head is encased and designed to be fully submerged in liquid. This also can be classified with any other standard "bottom feeding" atomizer.
The factory preparation works good, but has drawbacks. Firstly, the silica wick on top of the coil has drawbacks - usually requiring one to prime the unit to nearly flooding it in order to get good flavor/throat hit. Vapor production is not an issue though, IMO, the battery is powerful enough for this.
I have been building cotton "micro coil" atomizers with my protank II using kanthal 30 AWG wire with rather great success though they seem to require more frequent maintenance - especially with colored liquid (but that's another topic).
Basic construction:
The atomizer head consists of a typical bottom center contact "plug", rubber grommet, a ceramic base that the coil is mounted through, and finally, a top cover with silicone seal.
Note: The top cover (chimney, whatever you want to call it) pops off by applying diagonal pressure - use your fingers and a paper towel or something. Using pliers is risky because it will deform the piece. Additionally, this piece is notched (unlike some other bottom-fed atomizers) - this was done to accommodate the additional wicks placed on top of the coil.
This picture shows the C2 Atomizer head with the top cover removed - note the ceramic base, the coil with wick, and the wick above the coil. This placement results in a wick that comes to about 1mm from the top of the base. The cover is notched to reduce pinching of the top wick material. Note I said reduce - it isn't perfect (obviously).
I do not like this setup though - I prefer a cotton wick with a tightly wound coil. The density of the cotton wick will allow the ends to be "puffed out" and fill up more space within the base.
This is a picture of the new coil+wick with the leads inserted into the ceramic base.
Unlike Ego-C heads, the wires are not fused into the ceramic base, so it is possible to remove and replace the coil (just be sure to have a good set of fine tweezers.)
A top-down shot showing the coil leads and how they fit into the ceramic base.
Note: there isn't a lot of room for flexibility here so you need to be careful to bend and align the coil leads before attempting to insert it into the base, otherwise as you draw the coil into the base, it will deform. This requires a bit more initial work making the coil, but the tradeoff is minimal.
The picture below shows about how far the leads should extend from the ceramic base. as you can see, it's rather impossible to get cutters in there, and twisting until the lead breaks might be more difficult, again due to the constriction of space. Therefore, I decided to cut the leads to what I determined was the closest approximate length. Using tweezers to guide the leads into the ceramic base, I was able to gently and easily insert the coil all the way down into the base. I'll also mention that at this point, I had applied some liquid to the wick - just to keep the cotton in shape.
One lead should be right against the outer shell of the base, the other should be bent slightly towards the middle - just enough to allow you to work the grommet back in place. The grommet fits in rather snugly. Once firmly in place, use tweezers or other tool to push the inside lead into the grommet - this will ensure you can insert the central pin / plug without getting stuck on the lead and bending it. The plug inserts very easily.
Lastly, turn the atomizer right side up and make sure the cotton is straight, coil is straight, etc. before replacing the cap!
When replacing the cap, rotate it in such a way that the notches are not in line with the wick - you want to ensure that there is no cutout since we did not add a top wick! Failure to do so will most likely result in flooding.
DO NOT FORGET THE SILICONE SEAL ON TOP!
Things to be aware of:
My first attempt at microcoiling/rebuilding this atomizer. The coil is less than perfect, but it worked with slight tweaking to ensure the leads were centered directly beneath the coil.
It works like a bloody beautiful charm. No need to prime (i.e. taking extra puffs or puffing while plugging the air holes in order to draw fluid into the atomizer head). Flavor is great, as it should be.
If you're a seasoned cotton wick maker, then you should have no issues. If you're not, USE CLEAN COTTON. WASH YOUR HANDS! You don't want funky tasting vapor do ya?
-
Thanks again and I hope this post is helpful - and I do apologize if posting this in new members forum is bending the rules a bit
I find this forum an invaluable source of information when it really comes down to it -- I've registered for the sake of having it available via tapatalk, but so far have not found the need to post anything.
However, I bought myself a totally wicked E-lectron-L the other day - fascinated by the technology inside and the prospect of rebuilding the atomizer and basically having a sleek, affordable variable wattage microcoil system that didn't require a lot of maintenance and didn't make me look like some pretentious ecig snob (yes, someone at work actually said that about my ego-c-twist battery + kanger mini protank II setup.)
So it seems that the joyetech C2 Atomizer is not really highly discussed around here (yet) and while there is one thread on the subject, it seems to have been closed for some reason. The last post alluded to how one might rebuild it, but I thought a more in-depth post and perhaps some images to go along with it would better illustrate the process for anyone considering a device that utilizes this atomizer.
Opinions:
It is similar to "areotank" style atomizers in that the atomizer head is encased and designed to be fully submerged in liquid. This also can be classified with any other standard "bottom feeding" atomizer.
The factory preparation works good, but has drawbacks. Firstly, the silica wick on top of the coil has drawbacks - usually requiring one to prime the unit to nearly flooding it in order to get good flavor/throat hit. Vapor production is not an issue though, IMO, the battery is powerful enough for this.
I have been building cotton "micro coil" atomizers with my protank II using kanthal 30 AWG wire with rather great success though they seem to require more frequent maintenance - especially with colored liquid (but that's another topic).
Basic construction:
The atomizer head consists of a typical bottom center contact "plug", rubber grommet, a ceramic base that the coil is mounted through, and finally, a top cover with silicone seal.
Note: The top cover (chimney, whatever you want to call it) pops off by applying diagonal pressure - use your fingers and a paper towel or something. Using pliers is risky because it will deform the piece. Additionally, this piece is notched (unlike some other bottom-fed atomizers) - this was done to accommodate the additional wicks placed on top of the coil.
This picture shows the C2 Atomizer head with the top cover removed - note the ceramic base, the coil with wick, and the wick above the coil. This placement results in a wick that comes to about 1mm from the top of the base. The cover is notched to reduce pinching of the top wick material. Note I said reduce - it isn't perfect (obviously).
I do not like this setup though - I prefer a cotton wick with a tightly wound coil. The density of the cotton wick will allow the ends to be "puffed out" and fill up more space within the base.
This is a picture of the new coil+wick with the leads inserted into the ceramic base.
Unlike Ego-C heads, the wires are not fused into the ceramic base, so it is possible to remove and replace the coil (just be sure to have a good set of fine tweezers.)
A top-down shot showing the coil leads and how they fit into the ceramic base.
Note: there isn't a lot of room for flexibility here so you need to be careful to bend and align the coil leads before attempting to insert it into the base, otherwise as you draw the coil into the base, it will deform. This requires a bit more initial work making the coil, but the tradeoff is minimal.
The picture below shows about how far the leads should extend from the ceramic base. as you can see, it's rather impossible to get cutters in there, and twisting until the lead breaks might be more difficult, again due to the constriction of space. Therefore, I decided to cut the leads to what I determined was the closest approximate length. Using tweezers to guide the leads into the ceramic base, I was able to gently and easily insert the coil all the way down into the base. I'll also mention that at this point, I had applied some liquid to the wick - just to keep the cotton in shape.
One lead should be right against the outer shell of the base, the other should be bent slightly towards the middle - just enough to allow you to work the grommet back in place. The grommet fits in rather snugly. Once firmly in place, use tweezers or other tool to push the inside lead into the grommet - this will ensure you can insert the central pin / plug without getting stuck on the lead and bending it. The plug inserts very easily.
Lastly, turn the atomizer right side up and make sure the cotton is straight, coil is straight, etc. before replacing the cap!
When replacing the cap, rotate it in such a way that the notches are not in line with the wick - you want to ensure that there is no cutout since we did not add a top wick! Failure to do so will most likely result in flooding.
DO NOT FORGET THE SILICONE SEAL ON TOP!
Things to be aware of:
My first attempt at microcoiling/rebuilding this atomizer. The coil is less than perfect, but it worked with slight tweaking to ensure the leads were centered directly beneath the coil.
It works like a bloody beautiful charm. No need to prime (i.e. taking extra puffs or puffing while plugging the air holes in order to draw fluid into the atomizer head). Flavor is great, as it should be.
If you're a seasoned cotton wick maker, then you should have no issues. If you're not, USE CLEAN COTTON. WASH YOUR HANDS! You don't want funky tasting vapor do ya?
-
Thanks again and I hope this post is helpful - and I do apologize if posting this in new members forum is bending the rules a bit
