fluxomizers and dry burning

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Sedateme

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Aug 9, 2011
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Just a quick question on dry burning with the fluxomizers. I was cleaning one for the first time. I took it apart, rinsed everything, you know the drill. The time came to dry burn. Did a 5 second burn, everything went well. Went to do another, and it popped a coil. The coil itself broke off about 1/8 of an inch above the solder joint. I'm new to all of this, and have never had this happen. Is this how coils normally fail if you try to dry burn them too long? I don't think what I did was excessive.

I'm not crying about the atty popping, just curious so I can avoid something like this in the future.
 

badkolo

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Oct 17, 2009
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Whitestone , New York USA
if you dont feel comfortable removing the tube then wash it out, flick it dry, and do shorter bursts or at least give it a rest period of 5 seconds in between bursts so you dont over heat everything and warp the plastic or pop the coil. 5 tp 8 seconds are good bursts , now if you wiggle off the tube then you can do much longer bursts without to much worry but still give it rests after a few bursts and dont blow on it as that makes it hotter and can cause it to pop
 

Olef

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Apr 22, 2011
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My method for dry burning. Power for half a second, power off for half a second i.e. press-release-press-release etc. Repeat this max of ten times, then blow hard into the cup. this is what I call one sequence.

Pulsing the power like this allows the coil to heat slower and heat less than a full throttle five second burn.

The first once or twice you do this you will not see the coils glow red at all, that is because they are heating the gunk and turning it into ash without sending the coil incandescent. On the third or fourth sequence the coil will begin to show red. Continue to do the sequence until the coil is glowing quite brightly around the sixth or seventh pulse and the wick has turned back to white.

I have been doing this for the last eleven weeks on ten clearos a week and have not popped one yet. Remember, juice on a coil is going to cool it so it never reaches a red heat glowing temperature. You cant just throw full voltage into a dry coil for five seconds and expect it to take it. You need to build the heat gradually and cool it in between sequences, then the wire will survive. I never allow the coils to glow bright red or orange for more than half a second before releasing the power.

That's my experience and method anyway. My coils survive and all the gunk gets cleaned off without over-stressing the coils. HTH someone.
 
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cryx

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Feb 11, 2011
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Midwest
I do repeated burns on a manual pass thru. I'll do longer burns until the coil is clean enough to turn orange, then I do repeated ~5s burns, with a couple second cooldown, until the wick is clean & white and most importantly stops smoking. I've popped coils with longer burn pulses, and the wires are a b!@#% to resolder.

I don't know about anybody else, but with any of the CEs, I get a nasty/weird taste after I do a dry burn. It's like a plastic/vinyl taste which makes me wonder if the vinyl on the soldered wires is melting a bit. I'll put 2 drips on the coil and continue to lightly burn for a few seconds to get the taste out. Usually ~4-6 drips is enough to be pristine again.

I hope this helps someone.
 
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